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FrozenGate by Avery

DIY Laser Torch

O rly? I thought that elctrolic capacitors refused revers current... o wait that's the polarizised ones isnt it? BTW does it matter which direction the reistors go? (gold band to the right or left). Lastly do they really explode!?

Hmm i looked at the few i already made, the diode and capacitor are kinda together, cant tell which actually comes first. But they're allready glued and put together. I do have 100+ silicone diodes, would it be safe just to add another one before the capcitor and leave the other one where it is (so have two of them) or will effect the current even when the batteries are placed correctly?
 





Yup, they do blow up, just search "capacitor" on youtube and you'll see what I mean. ;D
Resistors won't blow up because the polarity doesn't matter on those.
If the capacitor and the diode are soldered together then you shouldn't worry about anything.
 
zuixro said:
I am planning on doing this with one of the Phazor diodes, Meredith Housing (and adapter), one of Jayrob's heatsinks, and the MXDL host.  Total cost (excluding shipping for the housing) $106.20.  I might need to raise some more funds before trying this...(also I need to finish my Blu-Ray first)  But in the end, I will have a 300mw red burning laser in a professional looking package.  I plan on using Arctic Silver at every thermal-related connection.  Has anyone tried this exact combo that can give me some tips?
Click to expand...

I'm looking at a similar setup with a minor change and have a question or two.

1. Is there any reason I can't use the rkcstr micro-driver instead as long as I keep it clear of the casing, or would I be better with DDL circuit?

2. Any problems using the 400ma on the Phazor diode with this setup and the heatsink?

.02cents anyone
 
There shouldn't be any problems by using a rkcstr driver, but I suggest you get a 350mA board instead of a 400mA. 400mA would still work but IMO it's pushing the diode a little bit. 350mA seems a lot safer to me.
 
chido said:
There shouldn't be any problems by using a rkcstr driver, but I suggest you get a 350mA board instead of a 400mA. 400mA would still work but IMO it's pushing the diode a little bit. 350mA seems a lot safer to me.
Click to expand...

OK, thanks

I was debating that, I thought with the heatsink I'd be OK - maybe shorten the life a bit. Either way, I have two of the Phazors (I'd hate to quickly kill one) and I bought (2) 400ma, (1) 350ma, (2) 300ma, (1) 38ma of the Microdrivers so I should be good to go.  Also, 3 of the BlueFusion drivers are coming, but I don't think they are rated that high for milliamps.

I was also planning on using the microdrivers on the other diodes I have (3 - SLD1236VL's) and a br. We'll see how that goes.

This board is very bad for me. I have gotten into this way too much...

Oh, well. Live and burn, I mean live and learn. :)
 
icecruncher said:
I was debating that, I thought with the heatsink I'd be OK - maybe shorten the life a bit.
Click to expand...

Even if you use a heatsink or even a TEC, any diode will die when it reaches a certain amount of current, a heatsink is a great help of course, but it won't protect the diode from excess current. The more current you put into the diode the more power you'll get, (up to a certain point, after that point the diode will just generate heat) but also, the less likely your diode will have a long life. The difference between 350mA and 400mA is only around 20mW, I wouldn't risk the life of my diode for 20mW only.

Here's DL's graph:

DrLavas660nmRoundup.jpg
 
chido said:
[quote author=icecruncher link=1186966870/330#340 date=1210983934]I was debating that, I thought with the heatsink I'd be OK - maybe shorten the life a bit.
Click to expand...

Even if you use a heatsink or even a TEC, any diode will die when it reaches a certain amount of current, a heatsink is a great help of course, but it won't protect the diode from excess current. The more current you put into the diode the more power you'll get, (up to a certain point, after that point the diode will just generate heat) but also, the less likely your diode will have a long life. The difference between 350mA and 400mA is only around 20mW, I wouldn't risk the life of my diode for 20mW only.
[/quote]


I should have a lpm-1 in the next couple weeks, if I get some type of adjustable driver, I'll try to test it.
 
well i finally killed my sony nec diode by shining it into a mirror back into isteslf  >:(...so it is time for a new diode.  well i got back on newegg to buy another one and they said it is no longer available.  what other open can would be a good replacement?  i really liked the sony nec drive harvest b/c it was VERY easy to get out even for a dummy like me.  any suggestions would be appreciated.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827129018

this is the one i am thinking about that jayrob had recommended earlier in this thread but i didn't know what success people had in harvesting these vs. the sony nec diodes.
 
after assembling i find that my LD is very dim and is only viewable in deep shadow/darkness, using probes in place of the LD i am getting readings of 5.76v and .45mA

any ideas ??

my batteries are these dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.1880
 
Hey i am planning on using this host but the 3xAAA one and want to know, Can i just use a lava drive instead of doing what you did. What exactly would i have to do. Could i just take out all the components and hook my driver right up to the batteries or that small board with the resister on it.  
 
LM317 can be configured as a constant current regulator to drive the laser diode.
LM317 comes in different physical formats and sizes; TO-220 is one type of package size.

What I am interested is the typical values of the resistors used for

PHR803 LD
and
OpenCan Red LD

Anyone?

Thanks!
 
[highlight]Hey i am planning on using this host but the 3xAAA one and want to know, Can i just use a lava drive instead of doing what you did. What exactly would i have to do. Could i just take out all the components and hook my driver right up to the batteries or that small board with the resister on it.   [/highlight]


take the pcb board from the flashlight and take every thing off it and solder ur pos and neg wires to the pcb board then to the drlava driver thats the way i do my diy lasers  
 
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