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FrozenGate by Avery

DIY Laser Torch

Well, I almost gave up on this, my diode short circuited when I assembled everything together, the pins on the diode twisted together when I tried to assemble it. >:( But I should be getting my new diode in a few days, any suggestions on how to prevent the pins from twisting together? Thanks! :)
 





troop231 said:
Well, I almost gave up on this, my diode short circuited when I assembled everything together, the pins on the diode twisted together when I tried to assemble it.  >:( But I should be getting my new diode in a few days, any suggestions on how to prevent the pins from twisting together? Thanks!  :)
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Depends. Do you have a hot glue gun? That is quick and easy. Heat shrink can help, tape if you are really desparate. But I think I am going to start using Plastic Epoxy. Regular epoxy will probably be fine too, but the plastic epoxy I got at Home Depot seems to really work well.
 
Ugg!!! This diode I just ordered must have touched again also! And I even used hot glue! WTF? UGG! I give up! Another 20 some dollars wasted! Can someone please help a brother out building it?!! Im sick of this thing, I have all of this, but I give up on the dang diode.

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I don't know what it could have touched. Maybe you are running too much current into it. There are some reported problems with the SenKat diodes lately. Best suggestion I have is to get a heatsink from Jay, and harvest an open can diode from the Sony burners that are on sale.
 
I think the problem is that the silver solder wont like to get a good grab on those brass pins, and when they pop off, then retouch the LD pins, the capacitor discharges into the diode :-[ This might be the cause? Now where can I get an open can diode on ebay? Or whats the best dvd drive on ebay for harvesting open cans? Thanks! ;D
 
troop231 said:
I think the problem is that the silver solder wont like to get a good grab on those brass pins, and when they pop off, then retouch the LD pins, the capacitor discharges into the diode :-[ This might be the cause? Now where can I get an open can diode on ebay? Or whats the best dvd drive on ebay for harvesting open cans? Thanks! ;D
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You need to use a little soldering paste. I am not a big fan of silver solder. I use plain ol rosin core solder and don't use any paste.

The best deal on the Sony drive is from Newegg.

http://www.laserpointerforums.com/forums/YaBB.pl?num=1202158967
 
Oh hey, also, where do I get a module that is not acrylic lens? I want to try a glass lens, or is there an adapter that screws in the axiiz module to make it a glass lens? Thanks!
 
troop231 said:
[quote author=Gazoo link=1186966870/240#243 date=1200186620]If you have your meter on the 10AMP scale reading, then it will show .25ma's. This is the same as 250ma's.
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This is how my meter is. So how can I get it to say 245-250ma like my previous pics? Something is up here.[/quote]

Where did you get that Multi-Meter? Mine broke a few days ago and was wanting to get a new one. Yours looks fairly nice! :D
 
So I ordered a pair of diodes off of ebay (I would include the link, but I'm too new), and I was hoping to get some opinions/estimates about a safe current to aim for with this MXDL setup. Basically what resistor to use and what I can expect for laser output.

The numbers from the data sheet:
Max Values 150mW CW, 300mW Pulsed

The "Tested" section on the sheet says 80mW at 150mA. I'm pretty sure this is CW.

I was hesitant to order a diode from stonetek with the recent JL VL business, hopefully these work out ok.

So any suggestions on a safe input current?
 
geek said:
So I ordered a pair of diodes off of ebay (I would include the link, but I'm too new), and I was hoping to get some opinions/estimates about a safe current to aim for with this MXDL setup. Basically what resistor to use and what I can expect for laser output.

The numbers from the data sheet:
Max Values 150mW CW, 300mW Pulsed

The "Tested" section on the sheet says 80mW at 150mA. I'm pretty sure this is CW.

I was hesitant to order a diode from stonetek with the recent JL VL business, hopefully these work out ok.

So any suggestions on a safe input current?
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Two more posts and you can post the link, but you can always post the item number. If they are rated at 150mw's cw then it will take appx. 250ma's. I would need to see the auction to be sure.
 
Assuming the specs he posted are accurate, I would treat it just like the SenKat diode. Running it with 250ma's will give you an output a bit greater than 150mw's. Note: this might still kill the diode.

If you want to play it safe, use a current of 160ma's or so. The diode will still be a pretty darn good burner. You would need a 7.8 ohm resistor. So I would wire up the 317 with a 5 ohm resistor and put a pot in series with it.
 
Going to be tough to fit a pot in there with the 317, maybe I will have to order a smaller version from digikey or mouser after all. Thanks again for the help.
 
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