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FrozenGate by Avery

Controlling a cheap TTL RGB module.

Sorry for double posting.

I’ve messaged laserlands, they asked for photos and then had this reply this morning:

“can you increase the current to the green？the current is not enough”

Any idea how I should respond to this? Surely I don’t have any control over the current to each laser. Is this a language thing or is she expecting me to drive the laser independently? I have no way of doing this and even if I did, the leads are glued in place, I don’t want to give them any reason to void any warranty.
 





FishBulb32 said:
Sorry for double posting.

I’ve messaged laserlands, they asked for photos and then had this reply this morning:

“can you increase the current to the green？the current is not enough”

Any idea how I should respond to this? Surely I don’t have any control over the current to each laser. Is this a language thing or is she expecting me to drive the laser independently? I have no way of doing this and even if I did, the leads are glued in place, I don’t want to give them any reason to void any warranty.
Click to expand...
Probably language barrier.. I doubt that you can increase current for each channel, only from power supply..
 
That driver board has three multi-turn pots to adjust the current to the individual diodes. That is likely what LL was asking you to do. But, I doubt that would help if you hadn't touched those to begin with.
 
Ah, I should’ve said at some point. The unit I got sent is slightly different from the photos on their website. See one of my previous posts with photos and you should be able to just see the driver board.

If anybody is interested in a close up I’ll post one later.

But my point being, there are no adjustable pots. It is what it is.
 
paul1598419 said:
That driver board has three multi-turn pots to adjust the current to the individual diodes. That is likely what LL was asking you to do. But, I doubt that would help if you hadn't touched those to begin with.
Click to expand...

No pots on driver board

1B0Q0PO.jpg
 
Thanks for posting that. Saves me a job.

I’ve spoke to laserlands some more. They’ve agreed to send me a replacement 505 diode. So hopefully I’ll be able to get it swapped out without too much trouble or messing up the alignment.

I’ll kee you posted with anymore news and will amend my review then post it all in one go.
 
That is odd that they did away with the pots. It looks like they went with a standard resistor combination to set the current of each laser. That means if you got one that was not white you'd have no way of correcting that other than using the TTL inputs and using a PWM.
 
Quick update for you guys. I’ve just taken delivery of the replacement diode today. Never worked with one before. Managed to get the old one out and press in the new one. Just tested it to make sure it lights and indeed it does! Yay!

Anyway, after battling with all the glue and pressing the new one in without destroying anything or wrecking the lense I’ve decided to take a break before attempting to rebuild it all and check the alignment.

Quite nerve-racking stuff!

Also, I’ve been working away on putting it all into a case with switches for each colour and the FX controller. I’ll show it all off once I’m done.

Just thought I’d let you know I’m still here and working on it!
 
These case positive 505nm laser diodes are fairly inexpensive now. That is likely why they stopped using the 532nm modules for green in these. I don't know what they are using for red and blue now. I think the blue used to be a multi-mode diode similar to an A140. I have one that the red and blue are much larger dots than the green. Makes alignment not great.
 
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