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FrozenGate by Avery

[CLOSED] WTB: Power supply for 2214-40MLA argon

Re: WTB: Power supply for 2214-40MLA argon

diachi said:
Are you sure it's pin 13 and 14? Pin 13 is +15VDC and pin 14 is return - that shouldn't actually have any control functionality. Any flashes of light along with the pulses/ticks? Sounds like the starter to me....
Click to expand...

I am pretty sure it is. It might have been a fluke. Often it just stops when I connect 13 and 14. And yes, there are flashes of light from within the head accompanying the pulses. I think it is the starter. So far I've only gotten it to lase CW twice, and I have no idea how. :whistle:
 





Re: WTB: Power supply for 2214-40MLA argon

I'd just wait for the controller to come. The more you fiddle with it, you burn up the filiment and starter. every time you try starting it you plasticize the tungsten and you'll make it droop, as well as wear down quickly. not to mention stress on the supply. it might be a minor pressure and wear issue. check the hours, and let us know how many are on it, that's a useful bit of info.
 
Re: WTB: Power supply for 2214-40MLA argon

ultimatekaiser said:
I'd just wait for the controller to come. The more you fiddle with it, you burn up the filiment and starter. every time you try starting it you plasticize the tungsten and you'll make it droop, as well as wear down quickly. not to mention stress on the supply. it might be a minor pressure and wear issue. check the hours, and let us know how many are on it, that's a useful bit of info.
Click to expand...


Yeah ... start pulses blow chunks off of the filament every time - not good for them to keep doing it.

Might be that it's having a hard time staying lit at idle current due to high pressure but a higher current might get it to stick - then you can "bake" it in to bring the pressure back down. Wait for the controller and proper cooling. Set the current to 6-8A then and see if it stays lit at that current. At least it lights - that's a good start! :D

Edit: Yeah - Kaiser is right - hour meter reading is useful.
 
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Re: WTB: Power supply for 2214-40MLA argon

I got the controller today; the current seems to be stuck at -0.04 or -0.05. The arrows don't do anything. I've followed the instruction manual to the letter. What's going on?
Edit: Also, it stays in the 'starter' mode and won't go into CW.
 
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Re: WTB: Power supply for 2214-40MLA argon

That... Doesn't sound good. Still waiting on the hour count.
 
Re: WTB: Power supply for 2214-40MLA argon

ultimatekaiser said:
That... Doesn't sound good. Still waiting on the hour count.
Click to expand...

There does not appear to be a physical hour meter.
ZTlW5sZ.jpg
 
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Re: WTB: Power supply for 2214-40MLA argon

That's very strange... That card is labeled as a meter card though. Interesting. Does it even attempt to start? Do you get pulses of light? Describe what it's doing.
 
Re: WTB: Power supply for 2214-40MLA argon

ultimatekaiser said:
That's very strange... That card is labeled as a meter card though. Interesting. Does it even attempt to start? Do you get pulses of light? Describe what it's doing.
Click to expand...

It attempts to start and I get pulses of light (after pressing tube current on and pressing run.)
Current stays stuck at -0.04 or -0.05.
When trying to start, light wildly jumps between -0.6 and 0.6 (or somewhere in that range.)
Adjustment arrows never have any effect.
 
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Re: WTB: Power supply for 2214-40MLA argon

Sounds like it's failing to start. Unless it strikes solid then the tube can't draw current. Keep trying. I'm not sure about the digital controller, but on mine I can turn it on and then right back off to make just the filiment run without making it start. Try babying it with just the filiment on for a minute before allowing it to start. Try a couple of times and then let the power supply rest for a few.
 
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Re: WTB: Power supply for 2214-40MLA argon

ultimatekaiser said:
Sounds like it's failing to start. Unless it strikes solid then the tube can't draw current. Keep trying. I'm not sure about the digital controller, but on mine I can turn it on and then right back off to make just the filiment run without making it start. Try babying it with just the filiment on for a minute before allowing it to start. Try a couple of times and then let the power supply rest for a few.
Click to expand...

What do you mean just the filament?
Also, I was able to get it to start in idle before, without the controller. With the controller it just keeps trying, it looks like it is pulsed. Can't the starter current be set higher?

Also - what does the side switch on the controller do?
 
Re: WTB: Power supply for 2214-40MLA argon

Try to start it in idle. If you can get it to strike at idle, then let it run that way for a while. If the tube is high-pressure it's going to favor lower currents. Turning it up may cause it to drop out or fail to start.
 
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Re: WTB: Power supply for 2214-40MLA argon

That's what I just did, I started it in idle using the interlock/connect-13-and-14 method. Still can't get it to start with the controller.
Could the controller be defective?? I bought it in new condition!
 
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Re: WTB: Power supply for 2214-40MLA argon

alright... That's promising... Let it run for a few minutes then try running it in 'run' mode at full current.
 
Re: WTB: Power supply for 2214-40MLA argon

ultimatekaiser said:
alright... That's promising... Let it run for a few minutes then try running it in 'run' mode at full current.
Click to expand...

Problem is I don't have the controller attached. I can't get it to run with the controller. I would have to turn it off and back on again. The current doesn't seem to change at all when the controller is connected.
 
Re: WTB: Power supply for 2214-40MLA argon

I realize that. I'm checking behavior of the tube, as well as internal circuits. :) The controller is a separate circuit, and does some 'thinking' of its own, so I'm narrowing down where the issue is on the analog end.
 
Re: WTB: Power supply for 2214-40MLA argon

ultimatekaiser said:
I realize that. I'm checking behavior of the tube, as well as internal circuits. :) The controller is a separate circuit, and does some 'thinking' of its own, so I'm narrowing down where the issue is on the analog end.
Click to expand...

Okay. I still can't get it to run in 'run' mode at all. How would I get it to run at full power without the controller?
 
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