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FrozenGate by Avery

Can 8x 405nm cut white depron?

Joined
Sep 27, 2009
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Hello,
I am hoping you can help me with this question I have.
Depron is the white material that meat trays are made of.
It's foam, and I am having trouble cutting this material with my reds and IR lasers. Can a 450mw Blue Ray cut it?
Could any of you guys try it, and possibly make a video of it?
I am really interested in getting a powerful 8x but it has to be able to cut white depron.

Thank you much to you who will help trying this out.

My PHR at 160ma is able to slightly dent it , I am pretty sure that 8x blue ray will cut it.
 





Hello,
I am hoping you can help me with this question I have.
Depron is the white material that meat trays are made of.
It's foam, and I am having trouble cutting this material with my reds and IR lasers. Can a 450mw Blue Ray cut it?
Could any of you guys try it, and possibly make a video of it?
I am really interested in getting a powerful 8x but it has to be able to cut white depron.
Thank you much to you who will help trying this out.
My PHR at 160ma is able to slightly dent it , I am pretty sure that 8x blue ray will cut it.

480mW couldn't do it. It did make some interesting reflection patterns though

Peace,
dave
 
Have you tried scissors? I hear they're pretty handy tools. (just don't run with them)
 
Funny , really.
Well my need for cutting depron is because it is normally used to build small rc airplanes,
and having a CNC machine it would be nice to make a laser that can cut the stuff.
Scissors really won't do much good when you need micrometric precision.

Very very strange material, My 3,2 whatt will burn a hole through white balsa in a matter of seconds and it won't even dent this foam type.

Very Very strange.
 
Its made of a dense non-porous material. Much denser than Balsa I would imagine. I'm sure its heat resistant too, because they have to run it through the shrink rap machine.
 
I don't think using a laser for this purpose is a good idea. I think I'll melt it more than cuting it...
 
I can't imagine getting micrometre level precision from a consumer diode without the OEM optics.

Maybe if you dremeled around the form and then used your 3.2 Watt (IR?). I'm sure you can find a dye that absorbs 808nm and is absorbed by Depron
 
How precise does this have to be again? I just dont understand why something for R/C has to be that precise?:confused:

Im sure a CO2 laser could do the trick....wow 80W to cut only 6mm depron!? Very strange, right now scissors appears to be the most cost effective way to do this.
 
X-Acto would be better then scissors. For RC airplanes the better the cuts the less the drag.
 
True, either way, I dont see a laser being practical at all for this type of application.
 
Could you maybe draw over where you want to cut with a black marker pen to give better absorption? If you have the CNC machine, maybe do 2 runs, first with a permanent marker as the tool then repeat with the laser, but on a much slower stepping time.
 
Ok, well,
I am getting a 0,05 mm precision in the cut with a laser and BLACK depron. This means that if you cut two parts with interlocking joints, they fit perfectly together without compensating for the router bit diameter. The only need for precision is for the interlocking parts, wing ribs will fit onto spars, tails wil fit with each other and on the fuselage, with no room for alignment mistakes.

Well I guess I will be limited to black depron.
 
can try with a hot wire cutter, i suppose ..... just an idea, cause the few RC experiments i made in the past i made them with balsa and not depron, but still have friends in this field, and as far as i see, they use pre-cutted kits ..... and those kits looks like they was cutted with hot wire (but i supose it's difficult to made a hot wire cutter on a hobbyst plotter, cause it require two carriages, up and down the mateial, for keep the wire straight .....

Or, but this is just an improvisated idea, so take it for that what it worth ..... can try to build a hot cutter with a hardened steel sewing nail (half millimeter diameter or less), in a soldering iron bit, using the soldering iron element for turn it hot, and hooking all on the carriage of the plotter ? ..... if you left like 5 or 6 mm of nail out from the soldering bit, it must conduct enough heat fr cut the depron without deform it too much, maybe

like in the draw (but better that you check if it can work, before start to build it, as i said, is just an idea that i had right now, on-the-fly)
 

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