I tried everything and its still not working......mhemling33...do you have the same host flashlight that I have? if so can you send me a link to were I can order one for cheap because mine isn't working no matter what I do....and did you have any problems with yours?
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FrozenGate by Avery
c6 m140 diode diode build not working help!!
- Thread starter killuh208
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You don't need a new light.
If anything you need to get a new 17mm board to use for a battery contact which mrcrouse is getting a large shipment of them in soon.
did you pop out the battery contact? at this point it cant hurt. I would first unsolder the driver so you don't damage it trying to pop it out. you can do it with a small screw driver or allen key and push it through one of the two small holes at the top. after you do this take a picture.
yes i have built close to 10 of these c6 builds it is probably the most popular host you will find in the laser community
If anything you need to get a new 17mm board to use for a battery contact which mrcrouse is getting a large shipment of them in soon.
did you pop out the battery contact? at this point it cant hurt. I would first unsolder the driver so you don't damage it trying to pop it out. you can do it with a small screw driver or allen key and push it through one of the two small holes at the top. after you do this take a picture.
yes i have built close to 10 of these c6 builds it is probably the most popular host you will find in the laser community
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DTR
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If you need a blank board you can get one here.
Laser Electronics : Zero Lasers
But first what I like to do instead of draping solder over the edge to try to make contact as I think you may be having problems with your ground is to tin a piece of wire then solder it to the outer ring on the bottom and fold it over to the top side of the board. Then when you press it back in it will be tightly up against the wall of the pill.:beer:
Laser Electronics : Zero Lasers
But first what I like to do instead of draping solder over the edge to try to make contact as I think you may be having problems with your ground is to tin a piece of wire then solder it to the outer ring on the bottom and fold it over to the top side of the board. Then when you press it back in it will be tightly up against the wall of the pill.:beer:
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Kristian_Mattera's Library | Photobucket
theres more photos of the blank bored
theres more photos of the blank bored
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I doubt you need a new contact board or host. how about this. Try connecting the battery directly to the contact board with some wire. One of your board's leads may be soldered in the wrong spot.
Instead of buying a bunch of new parts you really should just get a DMM like everyone else has said... you will certainly use it in the future if you continue this hobby anyway.
Instead of buying a bunch of new parts you really should just get a DMM like everyone else has said... you will certainly use it in the future if you continue this hobby anyway.
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DTR
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Here like this. It is a very solid method and clean looking. You can use the continuation of the wire for the negative lead to the driver as well instead of finding the contact point on the blank board.:beer:
Oh an yes a DMM would tell you a lot in this situation.
Oh an yes a DMM would tell you a lot in this situation.
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From your pictures you might have one if not both your wires soldered to the wrong contact pads. Yours is not just a battery contact board it is an actual driver that has all of its components removed. meaning there will only be like 2 or 3 spots on the driver that are directly connected to the battery.
I will give you a definite answer in a couple minutes!
This is from their website... it is different then how you have yours set up
'
yours
I will give you a definite answer in a couple minutes!
This is from their website... it is different then how you have yours set up
yours
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try this out
Also you might want to consider not using those jumper wires and just soldering the ones DTR put on the driver directly to the contact board. if you have too much wire you wont be able to fit everything together properly and a tight fit and taped wires equal trouble.
Also you might want to consider not using those jumper wires and just soldering the ones DTR put on the driver directly to the contact board. if you have too much wire you wont be able to fit everything together properly and a tight fit and taped wires equal trouble.
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Hey hey I'll bet that was the issue. I said all along that it was likely soldering issues on the contact board 
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Broke the laser diode how?
I'm not exactly sure..I put it together and it was working but then I toughened it a little bit and it broke.so I look at it and after trying to fix it I believe I burnt out the diode with the soldering iron BUT on the good news I know what to do for the next one I order and I thank all of you for that!
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Well, you should get it tested to see if it really is busted 
For future reference though, you never want to drive a diode off of a direct source of power, like the battery in your video. You could easily break the diode.
Not sure EXACTLY why, but i think it goes something like:
Diode draws power, lights up, gets warm, causes it to draw more power due to more heat
Diode continues to lase, gets even warmer, cycle repeats until...
*POP!
For future reference though, you never want to drive a diode off of a direct source of power, like the battery in your video. You could easily break the diode.
Not sure EXACTLY why, but i think it goes something like:
Diode draws power, lights up, gets warm, causes it to draw more power due to more heat
Diode continues to lase, gets even warmer, cycle repeats until...
*POP!
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Well, you should get it tested to see if it really is busted
For future reference though, you never want to drive a diode off of a direct source of power, like the battery in your video. You could easily break the diode.
Not sure EXACTLY why, but i think it goes something like:
Diode draws power, lights up, gets warm, causes it to draw more power due to more heat
Diode continues to lase, gets even warmer, cycle repeats until...
*POP!
He wasn't direct driving it. The driver is attached directly to the diode so you can't see it.
As for the broken diode, it sounds like to broke the driver off the diode or something when you were trying to tighten down the host together?
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