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FrozenGate by Avery

Building Phr 803t - stay tune =]

Also, as Grix said, just clarified...

You need to short the capacitor out to empty all power from the driver before you attach the laser diode. If you don't you run the risk of killing the diode.

To short the capacitor, just touch the two leads together. Or even easier, just touch the two wires that are going to be for the diode positive and negative together.

As far as switches, you can use a toggle and momentary in series. The laser would not work unless the toggle swithc was on, then then momentary switch would make the laser work

-OR-

You can use a momentary switch and a toggle switch in parallel, that way either one would turn the laser on.
 





@ chipdouglas
hey thanks alot for your help through PM =]

@ bloompyle
yeah i contacted him thanks

@ pontiacg5
thanks for the shorting tip, ill make sure to do so when attaching to thing

btw the momentary switch and a toggle switch, i am quite interested in this idea as i have a spare toggle switch from a while ago

to do so will it be like this?


Uploaded with ImageShack.us

** ooh and also, as you see im using a 12 ohm resistor, i am using a 9 V battery and im only getting 90 mA

12 ohm should make a 100mA max current right?

is it the batteries fault or possibly my lm317
 
The way you posted is 2 switches in series. The laser will not work unless both are on when wired that way. Another way to do it is like so,

wiring.jpg


That is switches in parallel. Wiring the laser like this will make it so either one of the switches turn the laser on. That way you have a momentary button, and a on-off switch so you can leave the laser on for spyros and such.

edit: sorry for not cropping the pic!
 
Yep, either one will work.

And a key switch on a laser is a toggle switch wired in series with the momentary switch. If you wire the toggle and pushbutton in series, it will essentially be the same thing minus the key.
 
siiick, hey when i get home tonight or sometime this weekend ill solder my driver together

oh and one more thing, is it normal for me to have only a 90 mA current

i used a 12 ohm resistor in my driver which should give me a max current of 100 mA

perhaps a need a new battery as i am using a 9V

and would 90 mA or 100 mA be strong enough to pop balloons, even perhaps sting the skin?
 
as i told you before the 9v rectangular batter is not good. it doesnt supply enough mah. it will let you burn for maybe 10 minutes. that is from personal experience. can you post a pic of your set up. and my phr is set at 90 ma and with 2 10440's it will light white matches, sting the skin pop balloons all for about 30 mins of continuous usage.

michael.
 
i only plan on putting my build inside a plastic box or something like that

how would i attach these batteries, would a regular AA battery holder work with it
 
Last edited:
A rechargeable 9V battery is usually around 125mAh, which means it can provide 125milliamps for one hour before it is dead. A PHR should use about 100mA, and the driver board is not 100% efficient, in other words 100mA output does not necessarily mean the driver is only using 100mA. Although that would be around a hour of runtime, the laser will start to loose power really quickly because the capacity of the batteries is so small. You would be much better off with something with more capacity.

A PHR diode driven at the proper current should last 10k hours+, overdriving them or exposing them to heat for extended periods of time will kill them faster.
 
alright thanks alot guys for your suggestions

so i'll use one of those trustfire batteries since i now understand why 9v is not enough mA

so basically now ima order a micro drive

so now i need a host

i am looking at the flashlights for sale on dealextreme, something preferably small or medium pocket size

is it possible to use a flashlight without having to make a custom heatsink, by just simply throwing in the axiz module into a flashlight
 
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