Building first Bluray 803t laser without testdummy

[blue lasers]

means?

when you're done of setting the current you will then need to discharge the capicator so you will not damege the diode.take a small wire or a small ohm resistor(1 ohm)and touch it for a couple of seconds from the diode's + pad to the diode's - pad on the driver.
thank to charlie who teach me how to do it!

 

[ultimatum]

when you're done of setting the current you will then need to discharge the capicator so you will not damege the diode.take a small wire or a small ohm resistor(1 ohm)and touch it for a couple of seconds from the diode's + pad to the diode's - pad on the driver.
thank to charlie who teach me how to do it!

Ok, I never done that before, but can it be that i damaged the diodes without they had been emitting any light?

thank you for your answers and your help!!

 

[blue lasers]

most probally yes.but ask the experts for sure.

 

[ultimatum]

SUMMARY:

Requirements:
- 9 Volt Battery
- Adjustable rckstr driver from shop.stonetek.org
- 3 phr-803t diodes

procedure:
- Set the driver to avg. 100mA with analog Amperemeter
- Read the voltage with analog voltagemeter without diode ( 9 Volt, as expected)
- Connected diode and read voltage while connected between + of the driver input and + of the battery output. Read 9 Volt, so no Voltage drop as expected, made that with three diodes.

Result:
CAPITULATION (What's wrong with the diodes???)

 

[lasersbee]

You have not yet answered the question...

Did you use the Test Load with the 6 rectifier Diodes and the resistor
to adjust your Driver...

If you connected your Laser Diode (LD) to the driver right aftter
you removed the Test load... (without shorting the output Capacitor
on the Driver) there is a good possibility that you damaged your LD..

That is why we tell all the New Members to Read the info on the forum..
This is well known and is posted all over the Forum... as well as using
a Test Load is the safest way to adjust a Driver...
The Test Load mimics the characteristics of a Laser Diode when adjusting
it's current....

Pictures of your Laser/Driver/Test equipment would also help...

@ the responding members...:wave:
BTW... it is very confusing for a new member when you refer to the
Test Load Rectifier Diode as DIODE... and the Laser Diode as a DIODE...:thinking:


Jerry

 

[ultimatum]

You have not yet answered the question...

Did you use the Test Load with the 6 rectifier Diodes and the resistor
to adjust your Driver...

If you connected your Laser Diode (LD) to the driver right aftter
you removed the Test load... (without shorting the output Capacitor
on the Driver) there is a good possibility that you damaged your LD..

That is why we tell all the New Members to Read the info on the forum..
This is well known and is posted all over the Forum... as well as using
a Test Load is the safest way to adjust a Driver...
The Test Load mimics the characteristics of a Laser Diode when adjusting
it's current....

Pictures of your Laser/Driver/Test equipment would also help...

@ the responding members...:wave:
BTW... it is very confusing for a new member when you refer to the
Test Load Rectifier Diode as DIODE... and the Laser Diode as a DIODE...:thinking:


Jerry

I NEVER used the testload! I set the current without diode or testload, is that wrong?

I'll take some photos!

 

[ultimatum]

 

[bottles]

Hey Ultimatum,

I built my dummy test load pretty easy. All you do is just get a breadboard solder a 1 ohm resistor & 6 of the 1N4001 diodes all in series on the board, respectively. Then use a two wires and connect one of them to the end of the last diode on the breadboard and connect the other wire to the end of the first resistor.


I mean: (-)lead wire -> 1ohm Resistor->diode->diode->diode->diode->diode->diode->(+) lead wire

In the configuration above.

PS. Before hooking up your laser diode to your driver, make sure to discharge the capacitor on your driver or else you might end up with a well-done LD which is inedible

Cheers

 

[ultimatum]

Hey Ultimatum,

I built my dummy test load pretty easy. All you do is just get a breadboard solder a 1 ohm resistor & 6 of the 1N4001 diodes all in series on the board, respectively. Then use a two wires and connect one of them to the end of the last diode on the breadboard and connect the other wire to the end of the first resistor.


I mean: (-)lead wire -> 1ohm Resistor->diode->diode->diode->diode->diode->diode->(+) lead wire

In the configuration above.

PS. Before hooking up your laser diode to your driver, make sure to discharge the capacitor on your driver or else you might end up with a well-done LD which is inedible

Cheers

Hey, thank you for your help!

And next step, set the current?

Peace

 

[bottles]

Hey, thank you for your help!

And next step, set the current?

Peace

If you have a good digital multimeter (DMM), the next step would be to set up your DMM to measure current draw by inserting the red lead on your multimeter into the uA/mA slot.

Now you would connect the (-) lead on the driver to the (-) lead of the dummy test load. Following that, you would connect the (+) lead of the driver to the (+) lead of your DMM and then the (-) lead of your DMM goes to the (+) lead of the dummy test load.

Finally, turn the dial of the DMM to mA mode.
Then you would turn on the power of your host.

Uwala!! You would see how much current is being drawn on your multimeter. Then adjust the potentiometer of your driver by turning it to your preferred current setting as displayed on your DMM.

Well at least the custom driver that jayrob built for me had a potentiometer which is basically a variable resistor.

Cheers

 

[ultimatum]

If you have a good digital multimeter (DMM), the next step would be to set up your DMM to measure current draw by inserting the red lead on your multimeter into the uA/mA slot.

Now you would connect the (-) lead on the driver to the (-) lead of the dummy test load. Following that, you would connect the (+) lead of the driver to the (+) lead of your DMM and then the (-) lead of your DMM goes to the (+) lead of the dummy test load.

Finally, turn the dial of the DMM to mA mode.
Then you would turn on the power of your host.

Uwala!! You would see how much current is being drawn on your multimeter. Then adjust the potentiometer of your driver by turning it to your preferred current setting as displayed on your DMM.

Well at least the custom driver that jayrob built for me had a potentiometer which is basically a variable resistor.

Cheers

Ok ok....
so I did wrong with measuring the current direct from the driver - and + output without test dummy...?

 

[Archienj7]

Not necessarily. I've built a few without using a test load and had no problems with them. It's safer to use a test load, definitely, but it isn't a "have-to" step. It's in the instructions for the new version of rkcstr drivers that you CAN set them this way. So unless there is an actual problem with the driver, a short or de-soldered component, bad solder joint, there shouldn't be any problem with setting it this way. As stated above though, make sure to discharge the capacitor. It will fry the LD if there is any juice left in it. Hope you get it working soon :beer:

 

[Tabish]

You can't just connect the amp meter directly without a testload.(not too sure about this though)

Check my first post. Measure the resistance across the 2 points on the driver and use the formula (1.25 / resistance = current).

Check the rkcstr manual to find the 2 points you measure across.

It's also possible that your driver is dead.

Or your diodes may be dead due to, improper soldering. You may have OVERHEATED the diodes when soldering. (gotta be quick when you solder)