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building a flashlight laser.

Oreoman64

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Hi, me an my friend are both building our first laser, and we obviously wanted to pick something simple. So we chose the flashlight laser (which is also what got our attention in the first place), we both have looked at a lot of different models both from this website and others, we want something that will be powerful but last as well (we don't want to put $100 or so into something that will break in 2 weeks). Our goal (and small bet in the office) is to be able to pop a balloon from 10 feet away. So far our favorite light was one we saw on this site from jayrob, it had:

The MXDL 4171 host
I believe a red 200mw diode
his own custom heat sink
the Meredith case and glass lens
2 X 3.6 volt rechargeable batteries
and a DDL driver
a link to his: laserpointerforums.com/forums/YaBB.pl?num=1202452073

My questions were:
will this have the range I need for our bet/ can most flashlight lasers reach that range (pop a balloon from 10 feet)?
do certain colors work better for range or heat?
Should I use the Aixiz case with a glass lens instead of the Meredith?
Should I use a FlexDive in stead of a DDL?
Will the Meredith case be able to focus the laser for the 10 feet it needs to go?
And is there anything you would recommend that would help me with the power but not comprimise the quality?

Thanks in advance for any help.
 

E

electricmonk9@aol.com

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Hey, welcome to LPF!  :)

Anyway, to your questions:

1. Not totally sure- all I know is at ten feet it's going to be really difficult to hold the dot on one spot without moving at all so you're going to need a lot of power.

2. Certain colors burn others better.  Red, for example, burns dark colors really well but doesn't do so well on lighter ones.  405nm will burn almost anything but won't burn darks as well as red.

3. I've only used the Aixiz before, but they're both good.  If you make a red laser, I believe the aixiz glass is slightly worse then the meredith glass.  Don't use a glass lens for 405nm- many glass lenses are AR coated which is great for red but will lower 405nm output and can kill the diode.  Aixiz is also way cheaper.   :)

4. Not sure-  I think a flexdrive will take 6v CORRECTION- a flexdrive WILL NOT take 6v without a diode in series.  I can't believe I forgot this after all the trouble I had with mine... :p  
If you can make a ddl small enough then go for it.

5. Yep, I think so.

:edit:- almost forgot- read the stickies!  They'll tell you most of what you need to know.
:edit:- stupidness.
 

frogger

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correction on #4, i'm pretty darn sure(check on his website) that the flexdrive will not take 6v(with the rechargables you listed it will be more like 8v anyway), but the ddl will.
 
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frogger said:
correction on #4, i'm pretty darn sure(check on his website) that the flexdrive will not take 6v(with the rechargables you listed it will be more like 8v anyway), but the ddl will.
Flexdrive takes 6V but you need a silicon diode before the flexdrive to drop the voltage to 5.5V, anything above 6V, NO.
 
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Go with the AixiZ module because its more common and will work with all the new lens mods coming out. Also grab a Rkcstr driver. They are more friendly to your voltage needs and go up to 12V.
 

Switch

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2. Certain colors burn others better. Red, for example, burns dark colors really well but doesn't do so well on lighter ones. 405nm will burn almost anything but won't burn darks as well as red.
But thats just because reds are available in higher powers.At the same power and dot surface I bet they would be quite evenly matched against most black objects, like tape.
 

Warske

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Switch said:
2. Certain colors burn others better.  Red, for example, burns dark colors really well but doesn't do so well on lighter ones.  405nm will burn almost anything but won't burn darks as well as red.
But that's just because reds are available in higher powers.  At the same power and dot surface I bet they would be quite evenly matched against most black objects, like tape.
Actually, the way it works is that lasers burn best where the color is best absorbed, and worst where it is reflected or transmitted.  To generate heat and pop the balloon, the light has to be absorbed.

For example, a red balloon reflects red really well (that is why it looks red!).  It also transmits red well (hold it up to a light, and you see... wait for it... red!).  It absorbs all the colors from the white light except red.  All of this means that it is harder to pop a red balloon, or light a red match, with a red laser.

Take a look at the color wheel below, for Additive Light (left side).  The colors within the red circle (red, yellow, magenta, and white) all reflect red and balloons of those colors need a LOT more red power to pop.  The colors outside the red circle (green, cyan, blue, and black) absorb red very well, and are much easier to pop with a red laser.  

The same applies to a green laser.  It will more easily pop a red, magenta, or blue balloon.   Based on the color wheel, white reflects all colors.  And though it isn't represented on the wheel, a clear baloon will transmit all colors.

The 405 nm almost-ultra-violet (Blu-Ray) lasers, with their high energy photons, work differently.  They will pop a white balloon quite easily, for example.
 

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I would never want to dissuade anyone from a DIY project but, by the time you're done with buying all those parts, you'd end up spending more than if you just bought a pre-built 150mw green laser module for $105.
http://o-like.com/b2b_cpinfo.asp?id=886


I only say this from doing years of DIY projects myself and one thing I've learned, is that, unless your making something because it doesn't exist "off the shelf", then you should only do it yourself if you can save 60 to 75% of the cost of buying it pre-made. -otherwise, it's just not worth it.

In your case, not only would you save money buying the module pre-built with diode, lens and driver, but you'll have quite a powerful beam that can also be seen in most ambient light conditions.

just my .02 cents.
 
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SuicideKing said:
I would never want to dissuade anyone from a DIY project but, by the time you're done with buying all those parts, you'd end up spending more than if you just bought a pre-built 150mw green laser module for $105.
http://o-like.com/b2b_cpinfo.asp?id=886


I only say this from doing years of DIY projects myself and one thing I've learned, is that, unless your making something because it doesn't exist "off the shelf", then you should only do it yourself if you can save 60 to 75% of the cost of buying it pre-made. -otherwise, it's just not worth it.

In your case, not only would you save money buying the module pre-built with diode,  lens and driver, but you'll have quite a powerful beam that can also be seen in most ambient light conditions.

just my .02 cents.
He wants a red laser. You can get a premade module from Dave for $38 shipped.
 
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Tech_Junkie said:
[quote author=SuicideKing link=1238460640/0#7 date=1238617958]I would never want to dissuade anyone from a DIY project but, by the time you're done with buying all those parts, you'd end up spending more than if you just bought a pre-built 150mw green laser module for $105.
http://o-like.com/b2b_cpinfo.asp?id=886


I only say this from doing years of DIY projects myself and one thing I've learned, is that, unless your making something because it doesn't exist "off the shelf", then you should only do it yourself if you can save 60 to 75% of the cost of buying it pre-made. -otherwise, it's just not worth it.

In your case, not only would you save money buying the module pre-built with diode,  lens and driver, but you'll have quite a powerful beam that can also be seen in most ambient light conditions.

just my .02 cents.
He wants a red laser. You can get a premade module from Dave for $38 shipped.
[/quote]

Daves modules friggin rock I might add i have a 270 modest loc he built me or was it closed :-? oh anyway just waiting for my nice china made hosts to arrive ;D ;D ;D
 




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