Build Question: Battery Contact Board?

[procrastimator]

Ok, so this is probably a stupid question, I need a battery contact board to which I attach the laser diode/driver/pill module leads, correct? Is this something I'd need to order, or can I scavenge one from a flashlight? Or do I just attach the leads from the module to the top cap of the battery holder? (I'm near 100% certain this is NOT what I do. Everything I know about electrical circuits and microelectronics contradict this idea.)

Top Cap of battery holder in S4 host:

Module: DTR 520nm Osram PLP520-B1 Diode In Copper Module W/Driver & G-2 Lens

 

[COMMANDR]

Check Flaminpyros-stuf. He might have what you need and more. :>)

http://laserpointerforums.com/f64/flaminpyros-stuf-67118.html#post966672

 

[ChaosLord]

You can use a driver/contact board from a flashlight. You would have to desolder the components and determine where to solder the - and + from the driver.

Or you can buy them, much easier.

 

[Pi R Squared]

That pill from the S4 in the photo did come with a brass ring right? You need the battery contact board from Survival Laser, but that module from DTR with driver wont fit. You will need the drilled pill or drill it first yourself. I would post links to parts but I don't know what country your in.

Alan

 

[The Lightning Stalker]

Do you have a lathe?

 

[procrastimator]

I actually ended up just making my own contact board. Since I already had the driver circuitry I really only needed a way to safely connect the leads from the driver to my batteries. So I took a blank silicon wafer from radioshack, cut it to approximately a circle, drilled 2 holes for the positive and negative leads. Repurposed some copper speaker wire to make leads, saudered the positive lead to the front of the board, then saudered a cone shaped spring on top of that. Ran the negative lead across the bottom of the board, carefully secured the board to the "cap", ensuring the negative lead was making full case contact, then filled the cap with silicone epoxy, leaving the top half of the spring uncovered.

Once it cured I screwed the cap into the top of the battery holder, inserted a battery, turned on my multimeter and tested the leads coming from the contact board. Got a reading of 4.18V. Satisfied I wasn't going to destroy my lovely new diode, I simply attached the leads from the pill to the leads I had coming out of the cap, applied a small drop of sauder to each connection, and sealed both connections with some heatshrink wrap.

As a side note, the module/pill assembly from DTR seems to fit perfectly in the extended copper heatsink from survival lasers...

I'll post some pics of the build and the obligatory beam shots later tonight

 

[toutan]

I make a contact boat with oneself with a nipper and a router.