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FrozenGate by Avery

** BluRay Diode GB **






just got my 2 diodes today, and built my first one! here are some pics

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v513/busterhax/1-1.jpg

http://mg.photobucket.com/albums/v513/busterhax/2-1.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v513/busterhax/3.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v513/busterhax/4.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v513/busterhax/5.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v513/busterhax/6.jpg

it is very solid. i love it. It has a dip switch that enables the push button switch(for safety). It is using a 6v battery source with just a 47ohm resistor. i wonder how long the diode will last.

sorry for the links, i can not post links yet


**DDL Edit: Fixed Links**
 
Just as a point of reference here, might give people some ballpark numbers...
I'm using a 9V battery, and NTE1900 regulator (behaves just like an LM317), in Daedal's circuit.
At 30 ohms on the potentiometer (+1 ohm to measure current across) I get a current of 41ma, and a voltage across the diode of 4.90V.

I don't know what's up with that Meredith regulator.
 
rubberband said:
Wow!!! and i thought i was bad off

sorry to fear that man  :'(
Click to expand...

Thanks... A little light at the end of my tunnel and to my utter shock, it was not a many multi-ton diesel coming at me. The 4th diode is a freak of nature. It lases WAY high, and is running cool at over 80ma. 44 ohms of resistance with 2 CR123's... I'm hoping it won't burn out, but since it never lased any other way, I really don't know what to think. I think my first one was like this, too...
Daedal, I'm doing the hairpin container. Waiting for the JB weld to dry. I'm putting in a spring thingy to link the batteries together at the bottom. If i works, I'll post pics.
 
marks47 said:
Thanks... A little light at the end of my tunnel and to my utter shock, it was not a many multi-ton diesel coming at me. The 4th diode is a freak of nature. It lases WAY high, and is running cool at over 80ma. 44 ohms of resistance with 2 CR123's... I'm hoping it won't burn out, but since it never lased any other way, I really don't know what to think. I think my first one was like this, too...
Daedal, I'm doing the hairpin container. Waiting for the JB weld to dry. I'm putting in a spring thingy to link the batteries together at the bottom. If i works, I'll post pics.
Click to expand...

44 ohms at over 80mA= 3.5v drop across resistor. So your diode lases at 2.5-3v???
how are you actually measuring the current? maybe you are measuring them higher than they actually are. With 44ohm your current could be anywhere from 20-40+mA depending on the diode and batteries
 
xarylx said:
44 ohms at over 80mA= 3.5v drop across resistor. So your diode lases at 2.5-3v???
how are you actually measuring the current? maybe you are measuring them higher than they actually are. With 44ohm your current could be anywhere from 20-40+mA depending on the diode and batteries
Click to expand...


I just measured. It's 1.4 across the resistor, 4.6 across the diode. I guess the current I reported earlier was  wrong. I think it's more like 136ma.
 
1.4v over a 44ohm resistor gives 32mA and not 136mA. I don't understand the readings you are getting.
 
I guess I have more of a fundamental misunderstanding of how to do ohms law. the 1.4/4.6 is while the diode is on, obviously. I was getting 136ma by opening the circuit, taking the diode out, and measuring current without the diode present. I guess that's what I've been doing wrong, but I'm not sure. I suppose I wasn't accounting for the resistance of the diode. I guess if I'm getting 32ma to the diode, I'll leave it as-is and try to put it in a package. I used to love this stuff, but haven't taken an electronics class in 14 years. I should probably just give up after this. I'd blind myself with a 200mw red, anyway.
 
Hey Mark,

You are doing a great job since you got on of them lasing nicely. To measure the current you don't have to plug in the ammeter. Just measure the voltage drop across your 44ohm resistor (in voltage mode on ammeter) and divide it by its resistance. Should be 1.4v/44ohm=0.32mA
6v/44ohm=136mA so you still got ohms law spot on ;)

Oh you tempt me to use my 47ohm resistor to drive mine without a proper driver. Any updates on your meridith driver? Hmm the circuit board on the 4led torch I am going to use as a host has 4x 47ohm smd resistors in parallel supplying 6mA each if my dmm is accurate. But the strange thing is it only supplies 3v+ to the 4led module while running on 2x cr123s. Either there is another dropping resistor hidden somewhere or it is going 2each parallel. Gotta break it out to see if there are any other components on the other side.

I always forget to switch the plug to current measuring mode when measuring current in series and get screwy readings before realizing it sometimes.
 
[ot]whoa, your avatars look really similar (out of the corner of the eye)! just thought "why did he had to post four times in a row, why couldn't he edit his posting?" Then I looked properly and, whoa, that's two people!!![/ot]
ontopic: cool, I guess? ;)
 
Yeah, when you switch your meter to current mode, you have to put it in series with the load (the diode), not in place of it or across it. In current mode your meter is almost a dead short (like an ohm or so), so you were really measuring the current across something like a 1-ohm load. (But it is much safer to measure the current indirectly as voltage across a resistor. An extra 1-ohm resistor in the circuit is very nice for this because then the measured mV matches the current in mA.)

In volts mode, the meter is essentially an open circuit, so if you use it in place of the load, the regulator runs wide-open and you see almost the battery voltage.

If you wanted to keep fiddling with your circuit you could probably drop the resistance by as much as 25% and still be within the current range of the diode. That's why I like using a 25-turn 100-Ohm pot plus a 1-Ohm current-measurement resistor. Makes it very easy to ease up to the target current.
 
sorry, but another ot here: klick

Well, where might this diode be from? As it has IR, Red and violet all in one diode!!!
Quite not bad, huh? I should start buying the BR assemblies, take them apart and sell the parts on ebay for good money!
 
philguy said:
sorry, but another ot here: klick

Well, where might this diode be from? As it has IR, Red and violet all in one diode!!!
Quite not bad, huh? I should start buying the BR assemblies, take them apart and sell the parts on ebay for good money!
Click to expand...

Some guy out to make a quick buck but probably not someone from this lpf GB.
 
To even ADVERTISE it as such highly makes me doubt his "advanced degree " In anything other than marketting ! LOL !! some folks wil go to any lengths to make a buck - kinda sad, I REALLY hope that nobody on this forum gets desperate enough to purchase from that clown.
 
DO NOT buy that... It's a total ripoff! I'll sell you a harvested diode for cheaper than that if you need one that bad! :o

Some things on eBay make me wish I was a mod on there just so I can close the listing! So many mistakes in that listing it's not even funny! :-?

--DDL
 
so I got my new violet diode up and running, i setup one of DDL's famous circuits for it and added enough resistance to drop the amps to 40ma. the color is jsut amazing but it's rather dim, is this what everyone else is seeing? i'm hoping I didn't shock the diode trying to solder it. I think i've got the wrong solder because it's having a hell of a time sticking. What kind of solder are others(with more experience than myself) using?

mines non acid resin core
 
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