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FrozenGate by Avery

bluray broblem?!?

Well it appears he has done everything correctly...
I can only conclude that the driver is defective, or less likely the diode.

Either that or he did not solder something properly.

BTW why shouldn't Boost drivers be powered up without a load?
 





Eudaimonium said:
Well it appears he has done everything correctly...
I can only conclude that the driver is defective, or less likely the diode.
Either that or he did not solder something properly.
BTW why shouldn't Boost drivers be powered up without a load?
Click to expand...

I don't think I would use the term "defective." Something may be wrong, but probably not with the construction of the driver.

You should NOT power a boost driver without a load because it just keeps boosting the power, trying to make a connection through thin air. Of course that connection will never happen so the driver boosts higher and higher until it overheats and a component fails.

Peace,
dave
 
It might be a bad Host circut board why dont you try to hook it up derectly to a battery and see if it works that way:D..i really highly dought its the driver.
 
i guess i did not explain it good enough in details sorry:D i just asumed that when i wrote hook it up directly to the battery i mean driver in all....i just thought buy saying that he would already asume the driver too my bad ;) guys i need to start being more spacific i would never hook it up to the diode derectly but i guess i got to start not assuming:crackup: now that i explained it hat do you think is it a good idea or not???
 
This is my first post and because I work in electronics repairing things and have done so for decades I'll give you a professional opinion on what I see and I'll attempt to be gentle. Nothing personal is meant by any comment. I know what temperature and times you say you used, but I also know what a good connection looks like and how they get messed up, mostly based on personal experiences of my own. Nobody is born good at it and we all make mistakes while learning, at least I made my share of them.

I question the soldering job based on what I can see of it in the photo's, it's marginal at best and based on the excess amount of solder on the leads soldered to the driver I suspect the parts got too hot in the process. I recall the first few times I soldered LED's into a circuit I built before I learned to solder properly and how many LED's I destroyed trying to solder them. Many people back then did that because LED's were just coming out and pretty fragile and frankly they took more skill than a regular 1N4001 diode. If you had that much solder on the laser diode leads I'd almost bet the diode is toast from excessive heat, again based on my past soldering skills and having seen those results from others and myself over time.

I think if it was mine I'd unsolder the wires on the driver, clip them off, restrip, tin them if it can go through the holes tinned and then resolder. For best results put that little driver in a small vice so it can't move, make sure the wire is soundly attached and can't move and then try resoldring it. If it's still not working I'd look at the diode itself.

I say that because if the soldering was done to the lasers leads in the same manner as I saw in the driver you probably damaged the diode. Even heatsinked diodes can only take so much heat before they die.

So, for what it's worth I think it's solder related, perhaps static related as well. At work my soldering station has a grounded tip because it's rather easy to pick up a charge and kill the device you're soldering in. A cheap pencil works well but there are times and environments in which you need to take precautions. You should see how LG Electronics tells us to solder when we work on stuff, they claim most failures when you're replacing a part are related to static discharges.
 
Last edited:
daguin said:
I don't think I would use the term "defective." Something may be wrong, but probably not with the construction of the driver.

You should NOT power a boost driver without a load because it just keeps boosting the power, trying to make a connection through thin air. Of course that connection will never happen so the driver boosts higher and higher until it overheats and a component fails.

Peace,
dave
Click to expand...

Umm I'm sorry dave, I didn't meant like: defective construction,
I meant that this particular one is not working.

However, I am not much familiar with flexdrive, however which polarity of battery did OP connect through the case of the host?

Maybe it shorted out the driver or diode.
 
daguin said:
Also connecting the negative to the aiXiz will only work IF he has soldered the negative pin to the case pin. We do not know if he did that or not, yet.

Peace,
dave
Click to expand...
i have connecter negative to case pin

cummings66 said:
I say that because if the soldering was done to the lasers leads in the same manner as I saw in the driver you probably damaged the diode. Even heatsinked diodes can only take so much heat before they die.
Click to expand...
the diode has alot of solder in pins but i did keep the iron to diode just little time

BTW: can i test someway if diode is dead and if driver is dead?
 
lazerboy123 said:
i guess i did not explain it good enough in details sorry:D i just asumed that when i wrote hook it up directly to the battery i mean driver in all....i just thought buy saying that he would already asume the driver too my bad ;) guys i need to start being more spacific i would never hook it up to the diode derectly but i guess i got to start not assuming:crackup: now that i explained it hat do you think is it a good idea or not???
Click to expand...

Cool_story_bro.jpg
 
GeGGuli said:
i have connecter negative to case pin
the diode has alot of solder in pins but i did keep the iron to diode just little time
BTW: can i test someway if diode is dead and if driver is dead?
Click to expand...

Remove the diode. Build or buy a dummy load. Hook up the dumy load to the driver. Add power. Measure the curent.

"Search" dummy load or test load. You will find a schematic for the dummy load

Peace,
dave
 
daguin said:
Remove the diode. Build or buy a dummy load. Hook up the dumy load to the driver. Add power. Measure the curent.

"Search" dummy load or test load. You will find a schematic for the dummy load

Peace,
dave
Click to expand...
i have dummy load but i dont know if it works so (lol) can i somehow test if my dummyload works?
 
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