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FrozenGate by Avery

Best Way to Add LED Indicator?

haha I'm sure both ways work just fine since its for LEDs which aren't quite as sensitive as LDs. I'll try those resistor values posted by laserbee. Thank you guys!
 





glad no one tried that... lmao! post a few pics if u ever get it done meatball, i cant say i've seen any kind of light integrated into a laser... except those glowy little pills that jayrob lays into his hosts for a lil extra $$$....nudge...nudge... post pics....

hope it turns out nice for you!! btw, is your lasers on/off switch momentary, or constant?
 
Darkarmyofone said:
glad no one tried that... lmao! post a few pics if u ever get it done meatball, i cant say i've seen any kind of light integrated into a laser... except those glowy little pills that jayrob lays into his hosts for a lil extra $$$....nudge...nudge... post pics....

hope it turns out nice for you!! btw, is your lasers on/off switch momentary, or constant?
Click to expand...

RPL, DX focusable greens, all the large portables ( IE herc ) from laserglow, portable lasers from SKY. Portable lasers from o-like.

There are loads of lasers that have other lights integrated into the laser, other than the laser module / diode of course.
 
these lights will be on my dual labby laser that i'm working on right now... So I figured that since the enclosure I'm using has two perfect little holes on top for a couple LEDs, I figured it could become a bonus safety feature... just so I know which laser has power without having to find out the obvious way.

Dark: since it's a labby, I'm def using constant switches. Oh I will def be posting picts when this guy is done! I found a surprisingly small enclosure. I'm fitting in two laser modules complete with heatsinks, a fan, and two LD drivers with regulated inputs. heres the enclosure I'm using.

SLOCII.jpg


the two holes in the side panel for the RCA jacks are the PERFECT size for a front and rear half of an aixis module to screw into. I peeled the giant stinger sticker off tho... but I'm very impressed with this as an enclosure and would recomment it to anyone looking to build a sharp looking labby. Stinger also makes a smaller version of this device which works well for single laser labbys.
 
certainly will! I'm at work at the moment, but I should be able to put some picts up in 3-4 hours..
 
While you're at it you could add a capacitor to the power circuit so that the laser doesn't turn on immediately when power is initiated. Might be a nice safety feature.
 
where in the circuit might I add something like that? heres my total circuit so far:
4262_1084908365753_1317690211_30263780_5173083_n.jpg


it includes the two LDs, the two LEDs, and a 12V fan. Hopefully it will work. Its only existed on paper so far.

Sorry for the picture size, you might have to download it to view it fully.
 
If you're going to construct a large circuit like that, with fans and other stuff, you might want to consider driving it from AC power. I've built a TREAD supply and they work quite nicely as an AC-powered, clean DC-output supply. It can even be a separate in case you want to hook it up with other stuff.
 
Looking at your schematic... I see that you are using 56 Ohm current limiting
resistors for your LEDs on 9VDC...
This will draw about 110mA per LED (just did a test)...

A better value would be 330 Ohms...that will draw only about 20mA and the LEDs
will not be over driven... and the LEDs are still bright... IMO

I also see that your LM317 circuits are configured as Voltage regulators and not
as Current regulators. Is there any specific reason for that choice... :undecided:

If you are supplying 12VDC on the input of the LM7812... I really don't see the
need for the LM7812...
With the current regulated LEDs and a 12VDC Fan... I can't see the need for that
entire LM7812 circuit..
The LM317 will regulate the input voltage just fine..:cool:

Jerry
 
It can be in a separate what? This tread circuit is certainly smaller than the steps circuit.. and considering my space limitations, I should be able to save space with a similar circuit If I used a wall wart, eliminating a bridge rectifier, or rectifier diodes. I also probably wouldn't have room for those large filtering caps, so perhaps this circuit would indeed be beneficial to me. I'm PM ya If I have many further questions about tread. Thanks!
 
Laserbee:

Thanks for overlooking my circuit! I believe I attempted to use LM7812 as the only voltage regulator in the circuit. I'm pretty sure though that those two LM317s are configured just as they are usually portrayed here on the forum. (let me do some double checking)

As far as the LED resistors go, Buildabluray first suggested 56 ohms, so I thought I would try that until you said something.

Edit: Ok I took another look at it, and it looks like I either accidentally made a LM317 as an LM7812, OR I simply added the resistors on that ADJ pin in hope of getting ~9V out of an LM317. I think I was previously trying to decide between these two configurations. I wanted the LD LM317s to have a solid 9V supply WHILE they are hooked up, so by using the LM7812, I was trying to account for the apparent voltage drop. I might have also slipped in that LM7812 simply because the "9V" wall wart I plan to use actually puts out about ~16VDC across my volt meter unloaded. I'll redo this circuit and post the revised version with your suggestions. Thank you for your advice!
 
Hmm, the wall wart might be the best option, since you don't need a super clean signal. I use a TREAD (or two since it's a +/- power supply) for an audio power supply; it's because the power needs to be real clean. Might not matter so much with the laser especially since it'll be running through another regulator again.

I was just thinking you could build one into a separate box and then use it for this laser or other purposes as well.

If you go the wall wart method, you should check out Sparkfun's regulated switching power supply. Here's one for 9V in case you want to drive a bluray. They're only $6 too! Don't forget the barrel jack.
 
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