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Badly need help/advice

chazgreen

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Hi Gabe/ just looked at the stats for the 300mW Laserjet you suggested; I need outdoor op temp range from 0C to 30C & it seems that the PLE-PRO 300 is 15-35, so its' lower op temp limit is 59C; that is a no-go. With the beam expander the price tag is $389............wowzer! A little steep!

The 520 laser seems to be more op temp friendly, but I don't see it available in a power that would give me a visible daylight beam dot to meet my needs. Will wait to hear from you again. Thanks/Chaz
 

Gabe

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Hi Chaz,
Sorry, I wasn't aware of the temperature issue. You can get a wider temperature range, by adding active TEC cooling I believe, you can ask Gray about it by emailing them. But that really cranks up the price, heheh...
Your next option might be to get a build done for you. There are some 520nm diodes that can at 250mW with great divergence if run at 500mA. Although I can't remember if there's any machinists here that can make hosts with beam expanders able to attach to. You can probably make it a custom request. I don't think il be able to see my laser for a while, once again I have to leave home, and a laser I bought will arrive as soon as I leave. Ugh. So I apologize for no word on how it is for a week or so.
 

chazgreen

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Hi Gabe/ unclear about the quoted op temp; are they like a switch.......below 10C they just stop working.........or are they slower to turn on..............or beam not as "strong"??? Remember I am the newbee. Don't know who "Gray" is, so Cannot email him questions, let alone don't have an email address. The function is what I am after, and I will be using this outside ONLY. Thus the need to get a usable (small) beam dot from 0C (30F) to 85 degrees F. Again, don't know what 500mA is so I cannot put it in perspective. Getting a "build done" may be my only answer?? But I have NO CLUE as to who I might ask to do this. As we used to say in the Coast Guard...........I'm lost at sea. Thanks Again......anyone with insight please feel free to offer advice. I will be out of town from Wed through Sunday/Chaz.........I will be shooting against 3 or 4 from the Canadian World Team at the Pennsylvania State Championships this weekend. (I just noted you are from Edmonton) Really great folks; wonderful friendships there/Chaz
 

Gabe

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Hehe yup, us Canadians are everywhere. And I'm sorry, I should've used more clear terms, sometimes I forget. When they talk about operating temperature, if it gets too cold for a 532nm laser it will take a long while to get going bright, if at all. Those types of lasers are affected by temperature. Alright, so I think I have a plan for you. I'm gonna have to make this quick as I'm out of town and using mobile data atm. In this scenario, you're gonna need to do some soldering. And by some, I mean you need to solder in two places, it's nothing. You're going to buy this diode from DTR: https://sites.google.com/site/dtrlpf/home/diodes/osram-plp520 the one on the page that's $90. Then, you buy this host bundle from Survival Laser: Bargain No-Diode Host Bundle for host option you'll want C6, under driver current option pick 445mA, and under heatsink option pick whatever aluminum heatsink colour you want. Basically what you'll do is solder the red wire from the diode to the red wire on the driver, and the black wire from the diode to the black wire on the driver. Super simple. Plus this as the added benefit of being quite a small build, so it might fit in your rig. It's a 520nm laser which means it's less heat sensitive than the other 532nm green. Also, apparently this diode has phenomenal divergence, as well as being focusable, so the dot is likely to stay small enough for you. Lemme know what you think :)
 
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Gabe

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Welcome back Chaz. If you want you can read the review I made for it, link is in my description [/shameless plug]
I feel like judging by your criteria, the Pl-E Pro might not be the best for you, the super quick C6 build I mentioned seems much better. Most importantly, better operating temperatures, and still has good divergence. This laser mode hops when it first war,s up, so the divergence is a little on the bad side until it settles into a perfect dot. Mode hopping is when the dot shape morphs and changes, and this can make for worse divergence.
 

chazgreen

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Hi Gabe/ was out of town again; sorry for the long pause. The following terms are Greek to me: diode, host bundle, heatsink. There, my true confession; I can manage a light switch or get a plug in a wall..........that is about it. I will call around to see if anyone knows/has equipment to solder parts together. How to assemble parts is something else; lenses, switches, etc would hopefully be included. This is why I was hoping to find someone who actually builds them. Will try to go on line here in Michigan and find someone; either that or buy the parts, mail them to a construction engineer and pay the return freight for the completed product.......still lost at sea, as we said in the Coast Guard. Thanks again/Chaz
 

Gabe

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No worries. You don't even really need to know what does what and where, to a large extent at least. There are plenty of tutorials on YouTube and plenty of members here who will guide you step by step on what screws into where and what gets soldered to what. The kits are foolproof usually, I feel like even someone with nearly no laser knowledge can get it ;)
 
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chazgreen

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Hi Gabe/went to your two sites and actually managed to find (with your help) both items. Think I may even have found someone to do the solder work. Made a note of the safety glasses also.
Final question: what batteries and charger do I need?
Am I to assume that the "host" at Survival Laser USA" will include on-off switch & all safety keys/devices as described in most laser adds?
Again, thanks for sticking out this project with me. If you PM me an email address I will pass on a pix of the actual application for this project; perhaps this will give you the feedback/Chaz
 

Gabe

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Hey, I'd be glad to guide you and see the final product. And I now realize, the "host bundle" link I sent you isn't the right one for you, it requires a bit more work and is missing some things. This bundle is already assembled aside from the "diode" part, which you buy from that other link I sent you, the $90 one.
Survival Laser R Host Bundle - Components Only- No Diode
It's everything you need, you don't even need to change any of the settings, just some of the parts will be red but that doesn't matter. These host bundles include all youll need, it's like a flashlight but gutted out, it has a switch on the back and everything.
As for batteries, it needs to be run off of one battery called an '18650' rechargeable battery. It'll be easiest to grab two of those batteries and a charger for them from the same site as the 'host bundle', right here: 18650 Battery and Charger Combo
PM sent of my email address, please take me along as you get the parts and build this, to make sure you don't do anything wrong :)
 
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In regards to your cold temperature operating difficulty, may I suggest a few tricks . Place your unit inside your coat .Maybe under arm?. Keep it warm there .whip it out when needed and then replace. The other trick I use on my $20 cheapie is hot hands heat chemical packs from walmart and a length of duct tape or gaffers tape. I wrap my up like a hot dog in a bun and let er rip. Sweet Green Stream everytime.
 
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ultimatekaiser

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pretty much. its just saying that because below a certain temperature, the KTP (the crystal that converts the light from the diode to the desired green light) stops doubling if the lattice expands too far. the doubling efficiency drops as the temperature goes too hot or cold, as well as the diode's wavelength changeing as well (though to a lesser degree) just keep it in a warm place and use it only when needed, or turn it on when reasonably close to operating temp, and it'll just have to warm up for a bit before you get the power desired. alternatively you could use a 520nm diode based laser, and that would allow you a bit more temperature flexibility if you're using it outdoors. just be mindful of your (and other critters') eyes while using it outdoors, as well as looking out for aircraft.
 

Gabe

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pretty much. its just saying that because below a certain temperature, the KTP (the crystal that converts the light from the diode to the desired green light) stops doubling if the lattice expands too far. the doubling efficiency drops as the temperature goes too hot or cold, as well as the diode's wavelength changeing as well (though to a lesser degree)
Thanks for explaining why temperature affects DPSS so, I've always wondered. Is there a way to predict wether a DPSS will like it toasty or chilled? Or is it usually a sweet spot that the crystals prefer, not too hot and not too cold? Thanks mate.
 

ultimatekaiser

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Thanks for explaining why temperature affects DPSS so, I've always wondered. Is there a way to predict wether a DPSS will like it toasty or chilled? Or is it usually a sweet spot that the crystals prefer, not too hot and not too cold? Thanks mate.
That varies with what wavelength you're trying to obtain and what crystals you are using, how they were grown, and how they were cut. (You cut along the lattice different for some purposes) but in this case most KTPs are cut to prefer around 23C, and diodes have a curve of Wavelength vs. temperature vs. current tolerance vs. efficiency. So they're usually set within each other's comfort zones according to the setup. in a lab laser each component is usually individually managed temperature wise which is why they're so costly. You're not just paying for parts, you're paying the man hours to adjust it and guarentee it's performance and the equipment involved in those tests, all of which are very expensive. It's a huge game of averages, and every laser and even part has a personality of sorts. No two laser heads are absolutely identical. :)
 
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Gabe

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That varies with what wavelength you're trying to obtain and what crystals you are using, how they were grown, and how they were cut. (You cut along the lattice different for some purposes) but in this case most KTPs are cut to prefer around 23C, and diodes have a curve of Wavelength vs. temperature vs. current tolerance vs. efficiency. So they're usually set within each other's comfort zones according to the setup. in a lab laser each component is usually individually managed temperature wise which is why they're so costly. You're not just paying for parts, you're paying the man hours to adjust it and guarentee it's performance and the equipment involved in those tests, all of which are very expensive. It's a huge game of averages, and every laser and even part has a personality of sorts. No two laser heads are absolutely identical. :)
Ah, thanks a ton, I would've just assumed it only relied on the crystal setup, but I never would be thought each laser was as unique as they are :)
 




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