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FrozenGate by Avery

Awesome host and heatsink for $6.76!

I stuck a screw driver into the plastic at the front of the host and i pulled the plastic out by levering the screw driver. If you cant get it out with the screw driver try making a hole in the plastic and pull it out with a pair of pliers.

Once you got that plastic lens out everything else just falls out.
 





deltawars said:
I stuck a screw driver into the plastic at the front of the host and i pulled the plastic out by levering the screw driver. If you cant get it out with the screw driver try making a hole in the plastic and pull it out with a pair of pliers.

Once you got that plastic lens out everything else just falls out.
Click to expand...

Aye, i just bashed on the front plastic until it broke, then pulled everything out :p
 
Yes, we use very specialized technique to extract everything inside the flashlight, Here is one of my favourite technique :gun:
 
Well, as i just posted on crazyspaz's build link, i feel i probably mishandled missoldered the driver board. i assembled and it doesn't work, tried the tail cap from my second host and tested battery in the 2nd host. i don't know if i can remove the heat sink with trashing everything as i had to beat it in with a shoe. guess i'll be a little more careful on this second attempt.
how would i hook up the battery to test before assembling into the host?
 
jwjsr said:
Well, as i just posted on crazyspaz's build link, i feel i probably mishandled missoldered the driver board. i assembled and it doesn't work, tried the tail cap from my second host and tested battery in the 2nd host. i don't know if i can remove the heat sink with trashing everything as i had to beat it in with a shoe. guess i'll be a little more careful on this second attempt.
how would i hook up the battery to test before assembling into the host?
Click to expand...

sorry it didnt live for you :/ the if you look in the host, you will see an inner metal cylinder that goes from the bottom of the host to about halfway up (carries current from the tailcap). The spring should rest on the little lip that it forms, then the underside of the driver acts as the batteries positive contact. As for testing beforehand, put the positive end of the battery on the underside of the driver, then just run a wire from the negative contact of the battery to the spring on the OUTER ring of the [underside] of the driver.

jwjsr said:
yeah crazy, that lens was surprisingly hard to break/bash out!!
Click to expand...

Heh, mine wasnt :p
 
how can i test he diode by itself? I don't know what i am doing and afraid if hook it up backwards it will blow
 
i just ordered everything but the diodes again, hopefully I didn't screw up the laser diode when i tested them direct to the batt and I will learn how to solder/desolder before it gets here.
Is it necessary to solder the spring to the driver?
 
Interesting, i musta got both versions when i ordered 2. I had to drive the heat sink in on one and the other it i can slide in and out by hand. unless the heatsinks are not consistent.
 
Deltawars,
I'm on my 3rd build, lol , 1st 2 unsuccessful due to my ineptness, on third 3rd one i built/soldered the innards and before installing in the host i tested and I got strong light, installed in host and it would not work. took it out and noticed positive end of batt not making contact with driver as it got hung in the spring. Fixed that and it still will not work in the host and now when I test out of the host it acts like I blew my third diode(the diode lights but very dim).
Any suggestions?
 
Hmm...I wonder if i didn't get lucky with my host, maybe it was a fluke or something. Try isolating the sides of the spring with electrical tape (where it would touch the side of the host), just leaving the bottom exposed, to make contact with that inner conductive sleeve.
 
Crazyspaz,
Is it necessary to solder the spring? seems to me everything fits nicely and stays in place with the pressure from the heatsink. I ask because i think i messed 2 of my attempts at this seemingly simple step.

What insulates the driver edges form the host?
Maybe i had a blob of solder hanging over the edge of the driver or/and i used a deformed lopsided spring form one of earlier failures.
if you say ok not to solder, on my 4th attempt -no spring solder -new insulated spring.
 
you should solder the spring to the driver, yes. It needs to have a stable connection. The driver touching the edge of the host shouldnt matter, because if you look in the host you can see that theres a sort of sleeve that comes partway up, and goes all the way down to the tailcap- where this "sleeve" makes a little ledge is where the spring (soldered to the outside ring on the driver) should sit, making contact with the batteries negative output (current travels up that sleeve, through the spring, to the driver). So actually even if the rest of the host IS conductive, it will be conductive from the negative side of the battery-- and the only thing that could touch the side is the outside ring of the driver, which if you recall, is the negative in.

So that being said, i have no idea whats causing yours to have problems :/ I might go put together another one real quick and see if i run into any problems
 
the short of what you just told me is it shouldn't matter if either spring or driver edge have continuity to the host>
 
Should the wires from the driver to the diode twist up into the heat sink hole? Or can part of them be sandwiched between the heat sink and the the driver?
 
I suppose it doesnt matter, as long as bare wires arent touching eachother or any conductive surface. I just put one together, got a full powere flash, then the diode LED'd. Im wondering it the driver isnt crap, they are most likely fake chips, so they could have a nasty stsrtup current spike, or they may not even be 350ma. No way for me to check though, I dont have an oscilloscope.
 
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