a good cheap laser?

[Shakenawake]

IR is so dangerous because it is invisble. your eye's pupil will not contract to compensate, leaving your retina super vulnerable. No matter if it is handheld or labby, IR will come out of a green laser that does not have an IR filter built in. Every maker of green lasers should be able to tell you if it is IR filtered or not, most list this in the laser's specs. If a green laser does not have this, you need glasses that block both 532nm and IR (808nm-1300+nm). If it does have this, you only need ones that block 532nm light:beer:

 

[pingo5]

IR is so dangerous because it is invisble. your eye's pupil will not contract to compensate, leaving your retina super vulnerable. No matter if it is handheld or labby, IR will come out of a green laser that does not have an IR filter built in. Every maker of green lasers should be able to tell you if it is IR filtered or not, most list this in the laser's specs. If a green laser does not have this, you need glasses that block both 532nm and IR (808nm-1300+nm). If it does have this, you only need ones that block 532nm light:beer:

oh thanks for straightening that out... so, does the ir affect burning ability in a green laser, and if not do you know of any 100mw green lasers with an ir filter between $50-75? i know lazerer doesnt have any. ALSO since it doesnt seem so far that im getting it that cheap, do blue 445nm lasers have infrared radiation? im trying to keep my budget undeer $150 now... it keeps going up
i mean with that budget getting a pair of safety glasses that work with a 1w blue laser shouldnt be too big of a problem, right?

 

[Livinloud]

IR does matter with burning. IR will help a cheaper laser burn, hence why some cheap penlasers from fleabay that are "5mW" burn. granted they are more like 40mW 532 and 20mW 808-1600. a cheap solution to IR is buying a cheap IR filter and thus cutting the IR out of the laser completely. its hard to attach a filter to the laser but if you are using it inside, which is when IR matters since it will reflect, then you can have it placed in front of the laser thus blocking the IR.

as far as 445s go, they dont have ANY IR afaik. 405, 660, 638, 650 and 445 all dont have IR, someone correct me if i put one in there on accident that does have IR.

You can get a lazerer 100mW laser for what $65 shipped and then buy a IR filter for $10 shipped. you are looking at $75 shipped for 532 laser w/ separate IR filter. $40 for eagle pair glasses or whatever brand you want and even with the more expensive eagle pair you are still under your $150 budget.

as for a beam stop, what non reflective material are you thinking of? not sure if you know but even some "non reflective" objects still reflect light.

 

[pingo5]

like ive seen, a brick or black adonized aluminum. they sell 3x3 black adonized aluminum squares on ebay for $5, or a brick outside will do just fine :I correct me if a brick wont work, its what some people i seen use.
at $75 i might just pay another $25 for a blue one... same or more burning capacity without risk of IR, and i will get an eagle pair too. would the infrared filter camera lenses work?

 

[Livinloud]

black anodizing will still reflect laser light......i use a brick that has no reflective stones in it and also angle it 25-45 degrees away from me and the laser so avoid reflections even more. you can use a block of wood as well but as the power of your lasers go up it will start to burn the wood. if i left my 1.5W 445 on a block of wood it will start to burn a hole in it over time.

 

[Shakenawake]

Livinloud, you asked to be corrected. You are right about all those wavelengths except 473 (you put 478). 473s are also DPSS (Diode Pumped Solid State) lasers. Any DPSS laser will need an IR filter. these use a diode that by itself would make a very powerful IR laser, then stick a crystal in front to change it to a different, and visible, wavelength. They loose much of the diodes initial output, making DPSS lasers much more inefficient than Lasers having a visible wavelength diode. For example, my 700mW PL-E draws like 3A, and my rifle may draw no more than 1.5A, even though the rifle is 1500mW.

The more you know....

 

[pingo5]

ok yeah... so the aluminum wont work, so the brick will. a regular red brick would work...? and yeah angling it passed through my head but didnt stay very long as i was unsure if it would work...
just out of curiousity, what about some dry dirt XD

 

[Livinloud]

shake, thank you for that. i was thinking it was DPSS then i said nah ill put it down and if im mistaken ill correct it. what makes it even more of a duhhhh moment was the fact i put 478 like you said. too funny, especially since i debated buying a 473 for a good month, apparently it is too early for me to function properly :banghead::tired: