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FrozenGate by Avery

80mW Dorcy Blu-Ray?

Spyderz20x6

Spyderz20x6

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Hey peoples!

I am going to start a new project: The PHR-803T XBOX diode in a Dorcy Jr, i am going to use a 15-18 ohm resistor because that will lower the current to about 100mA. Dark_Horses mod inspired me to do this because he used a 22-0hm resistor with a regular PS3 diode and the current going to the diode was 38mA. Who supports me on this? A lot of people say this won't work, so i am kind of uneasy. I could also put a Dr. Lava flex drive in the dorcy, and set it to 80mA, that could work fine. What do you guys think?
 





I don't see why this shouldn't work, 5v is right around a blu rays specs. Im going to attempt this with a micro pot in the head. I will be sure to report my Triumph/failure. ;)
 
I am doing the same with an open-can red diode......From what I hear DON'T use the Dorcy's driver.. it doesn't offer enough protection and will blow the diode MUCH quicker than say a Flexdrive, which is what I am going to use.

Just trying to save you guys some grief when the awesome little laser you just built goes POP when you least expect it to......read some of the threads on Dorcy Jr.'s in the last few months, including mine.. they will tell the story--ESPECIALLY with the newer Dorcy's.
 
Glaserfan said:
I am doing the same with an open-can red diode......From what I hear DON'T use the Dorcy's driver.. it doesn't offer enough protection and will blow the diode MUCH quicker than say a Flexdrive, which is what I am going to use.

Just trying to save you guys some grief when the awesome little laser you just built goes POP when you least expect it to......read some of the threads on Dorcy Jr.'s in the last few months, including mine.. they will tell the story--ESPECIALLY with the newer Dorcy's.
Click to expand...

The driver is fine for reds and has been proven by kenom and many other members myself included. Mine has lasted well over 20 hours and im currently running it at 270ma's. I do however suspect that i'll use a flexdrive cause they sound awesome. Do you think i need to tear up the current driver in the dorcy or just leave it if im going to do a blu ray build?
 
I think it is mainly the "New" driver's in the Dorcy Jr. that are the problem. If you have an older one, that is probably why it lasted so long. My driver, testing with it's dead red diode, put out 267 mA, BUT would spike up into the 400's when powering on!, not to mention go unstable after a few minutes(I tested it thoroughly to see if it was worth another diode). I am going to use something in place of the driver to back up the spring, and be the positive terminal in mine. There is plenty of room in there for the flexdrive, and I suppose the Dorcy driver could be left in there, but hey.. If your Dorcy drivers are working out, why not use them in another build? :D My dorcy driver will probably go into a homemade LED light.
 
Spyderz20x6 said:
Hey peoples!

I am going to start a new project: The PHR-803T XBOX diode in a Dorcy Jr, i am going to use a 15-18 ohm resistor because that will lower the current to about 100mA. Dark_Horses mod inspired me to do this because he used a 22-0hm resistor with a regular PS3 diode and the current going to the diode was 38mA. Who supports me on this? A lot of people say this won't work, so i am kind of uneasy. I could also put a Dr. Lava flex drive in the dorcy, and set it to 80mA, that could work fine. What do you guys think?
Click to expand...
Smoke'm if you got'm. ;)
 
The dorcy drivers seem to vary, so no specific resistor can be recommended.. I have been helping a forum member through the process of trying to get the right current out of a dorcy driver.. not an easy task. This particular driver is one of the newer ones for sure, just like mine that fried my red 16x diode.

To me its worth it to get one a flexdrive or at least another stable bost driver for a blu-ray/dorcy jr. combo, instead of chanceing popping a BR diode.
 
Ya, that's what i will probably do. Maybe the reason you blew your red diode is because you used a 1/4 watt resistor. For the red diodes, i use a 1/2 watt resistor and it works great. How many ohms was your resistor? I usually use a 5-6 ohm for the red diodes.
 
Mine had 2 10 ohm-1 watt resistors ( 5 ohms). It normaly pushes about 267mA, but spikes to over 400mA on startup most of the time. It also after about 30 seconds of runtime tends to vary between 280mA and 300-340mA.. super unstable. I have done all this testing with the dead diode connected. To me, it isn't worth the cost of going throgh diodes just to shortcut by running a driver intended for a simple LED..

Just my 2 cents.....
 
I hope this is just a weird driver, i haven't come across this yet and i bought another dorcy two weeks ago, it holds steady at 350 ma's. My guess is that there were a couple weird ones sent out. I love the first dorcy that i have, with rechargeables i still get the same voltage as the primaries but more current its awesome! It might have something to do with me shorting the driver so it might just be running off power and resistor. Its lasted over a month now with rechargeables and is at 270ma on a fresh charge. I know i don't need to worry about voltage because a normal dorcy junior will output 5.1 volts on primaries and mine outputs 5.08 on rechargeables. We'll see how long it lasts.

Edit: Oh and a dead diode isn't the best way to check current as i think someone posted it will cause fluctuations in the reading.
 
I learn somethng new everyday.. I used the dead diode to test because of a recommendation to use a dead diode to set my Flexdrive when it arrives... what is a good "load" to use for testing? The spike at startup still scares me off though..
 
Do not use unregulated boost "drivers"!

Get Dr_Lava's constant current driver, set the current to 80mA and it will always be exactly that. With an unregulated boost circuit, the current will peak high on power on with fresh battery, and drop all the time it is on, together with the battery voltage..

And it's not easy to figure out the resistors needed. It depends on too many factors, and can easily go wrong. With a constant current driver, you just set the current, and that's it.
 
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