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6 x XM-L2 SRK clone @ DX [PIC HEAVY]

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Feb 9, 2011
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Hey guys, here is a quick tear down of the 6 x XM-L2 SRK clone I received from DX a few weeks ago. It's an overall great light and is easily moddable to get increased output.

From what I noticed all the PCBs have no finish, its all copper. No HASL or ENIG. The light comes with lubricated threads which is a plus!

Mods I did:

  • Changed wiring to 18 gauge silicone wire
  • MOSFET swap
  • Re-pasted star to pill using Shin-Etsu thermal paste
  • Cleaned all contact points with 91% alcohol and Deoxit
The pictures shown below are before I modded the light.

IMG_0026_zpsa7fcfcfa.jpg


IMG_0028_zpsd5236b01.jpg


IMG_0027_zps85440b7b.jpg


IMG_0029_zps404ef53a.jpg


Unscrewing the bottom will reveal the screwed in battery contact plate. Copper springs are soldered on the back rather than the front.
IMG_0030_zps811b5f4b.jpg


The copper pads around the screws make contact with the body allowing the negative feed to the driver.
IMG_0034_zps1199b189.jpg


IMG_0032_zpscfea75a8.jpg


Electronic switch
IMG_0038_zps331ea1f3.jpg


Inner and middle ring are positive contacts while the outermost ring is the negative contact. Driver is not glued in!!! It's pressed in.
IMG_0042_zpsbe4f00de.jpg


Glass lens: 54.8mm x 2.4mm
IMG_0041_zpsb1cc4d12.jpg


Unscrewing the reflector and desoldering the LED wires will get you here. The reflector might be tightly screwed in so a bit of force may be needed.
IMG_0037_zps12d77457.jpg


IMG_0035_zps5553d3bd.jpg


IMG_0036_zps9e07e93d.jpg


Take off the reflector screws and underneath you will the insulation gaskets. They just pop right in there. It's a bit high so cutting them down might increase output by a tiny bit.
IMG_0039_zps6d56e694.jpg


LEDs are in parallel
IMG_0040_zpsdad8929d.jpg


Driver: 46.5mm MOSFET driven H35N03J
IMG_0043_zpsd728dd54.jpg


Driver schematic with all components used and unused
SRK6x_zps15d4f3f7.png


Driver schematic with only populated components
SRK6x_r2_zps796c3c39.png


Again this is a great light with a lot of potential! After modding it I noticed a huge increase in light output. It would be a lot brighter if I had some high drain batteries. :(

Thanks for looking! :beer:
 





Yeah, it is a bit lacking. I wish it was more like the DRY since that was machine straight to the body.
 
You definitely did the best with what you had to work with :)

It would be so much better if they just made the heatsink even 1cm thicker. It wouldn't add that much to the size, and would be much improved.
 
I bought SRK clone with 7x xm-l2 just yesterday, I am not sure how they put more emitters in there and forget all the internal changes required to make it a tiny bit more durable. I think i'll open it up and tidy it up a little bit, add some heatsinking and maybe mod the driver a little.

Thanks for the review :beer:
 
I forgot to point out that since the reflector is screwed into the pill/star it also acts as a heat sink, but it probably doesn't do it very efficiently. A custom job would really help the light a lot better!
 
Great pictures!

I bought a bunch of these, at $23 shipped I couldn't resist. I also love the modes, it simple Hi, Low, Off w/ hidden strobe.

There is a good amount of room between the driver and pill/reflector. Plenty of room for some type of heatsinking.

I swapped mine out with a 70N02 MOSFET that was discussed on BLF. Performance wise is there a reason you went with H35N03J?
 
I know I should have bought another one! Too bad prices went up. :(

Oh no, the stock MOSFET is the H35N03J. I switched it out with a 06N03 I had left over from an East-092 driver. I plan on switching it out again when I do another order from Digi-Key.
 
Awesome, thanks a lot. +1 :beer:

Didn't know the East-092 driver's MOSFET was compatible, I'll try swapping it out.
 
No problem! I enjoy tearing things down to see how they work. :beer:

You can virtually use any MOSFET as long as they meet the criteria for PWM applications.

  • Logic level (<5V Vgs(th))
  • Rds(on)
  • Gate charge/capacitance - also helps calculate for the gate resistor and see if the turn on/off time delays closely match in the datasheet.
 


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