I think he is talking about that "mod" video, where someone "destroys" a resistor on the PCB with a soldering iron (while holding the soldering iron at the barrel

).
If turning the potentiometer (pot not screw) doesn't help, there is nothing you can do. Every so often someone starts a thread asking how to turn a 5mW laser into a burner, but it can't be done.
There used to be some green lasers, that were made with components which were not used at their maximum ratings. There, "modding" it actually could increase the output. After the manufacturer built the lasers, they reduced the output to the power which they sold it as. This meant you could get some increase by turning the pot.
Now most green lasers are built, adjusted till they reach maximum output (depending on the crystal quality), and then sorted depending on their power. The manufacturer doesn't know what will come out before it's done. After measuring it, they just sort them according to the measurement. Sometimes they don't even sort them good, so you can sometimes get 30mW when you buy a 5mW or you can get 15mW when you buy what was supposed to be a 50mW.
But unless the manufacturer actually turned the pot down, for the laser to match what it is sold as, you can not "pot mod" it. And destroying a component on the board will most likely destroy your laser, because you will be left without a driver.
If you want a more powerfull laser, buy a more powerfull laser. During the day, the beam can faintly be seen indoors with my cheap 50mW (at 70), but when sun is shining through a window, not even my expensive 150mW (at 170) can create a solid beam without some smoke or fog. And i'm talking about verified power in both cases (while DX lasers vary for the above mentioned reasons). During the night oustide, they both produce magnificent beams tho.