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FrozenGate by Avery

50mW O-like module review, and a new laser build!

Yes it will work, but your overdriving it so maybe it wont work for so long.
Anyway I am just quoting what o-like have recommended and a diode inline is a very cheap insurance policy!

Good luck.
But it is also a killer of battery lifespan.

Ask Bill of you doubt the direct li-ion connection :D :wave:

Bill, you have a lot of O-like modules directly powered off one 18650, right?

I will not proceed to remove the laser head from the host, power it from 18650 in my hand for couple of minutes, and tell you all if any component on PCB gets hot.
 





Bill, you have a lot of O-like modules directly powered off one 18650, right?

Alot of the older ones or newer ones?

I believe they have changed the drivers, I have an older style 50mw that runs fine a 3.7v cr123 (4.2v peak)
These are boost drivers and the more you put in the more you get out, so its not necessarily the driver you should be worried about, it the amount of current your diode is receiving.

Im not trying to be a know it all here, just re writing what has already been posted on the forum allready.
 
Alot of the older ones or newer ones?

I believe they have changed the drivers, I have an older style 50mw that runs fine a 3.7v cr123 (4.2v peak)
These are boost drivers and the more you put in the more you get out, so its not necessarily the driver you should be worried about, it the amount of current your diode is receiving.

Im not trying to be a know it all here, just re writing what has already been posted on the forum allready.

I am not familiar with new and old ones...
All I know is that there are shorter and longer modules overall (including PCB), which makes the olnger ones somewhat difficult to install in Jayrobs pen hosts, and they need modifications.

But I think I'll disagree with you on the boost converter.
Look closely on the PCB, there is no coil there what-so-ever,
This is a simple low dropout step down converter,
There is apsolutely no need to put boost converters in greenies as the IR diode requires no more than 1.9 - 2.0 V, and a great percent of commonly used boost converter drivers cut off at 2.7 V according to datasheets (LM3410X I am using can still operate down to 2.3 V but at that voltage it will pull just under 1A to power a PHR).
No purpose at using one....

I have tried powering it in my hand, the PCB after 2 minutes gets expectably warm, but not hot by any means.

We need an expert opinion on this however, because I am just taking an educated guess, not presenting facts (except the LM3410x).
 
New beamshot added !

Sorry for long delay, internet connection all breaking up and not good overall.
 
The beam doesn't look more visible than the one from the 100mW pen to me. But it could be just me.:kewlpics:
 
The beam doesn't look more visible than the one from the 100mW pen to me. But it could be just me.:kewlpics:
In real life it does, since the beam is just a bit more thinner and appears more 'sharp'.

However, at long range, very minor difference is visible. But next-to-none actually.
Only measuring with LPM adapter reveals the difference, or attempts to ignite a match.
100mW pen will light it in 3-4 seconds, but O-like module will make it smoke only, it cannot ignite it wihout external lens.
 
Maybe I'm just lucky, but out of nearly a dozen green modules from o-like and DX, I haven't blown any from using a lithium cell. I usually use 10440's or 14500's, but I do have an o-like 450mW IR filtered module that is running off 1 x 18650 and works great and is overspec. Note that the o-like 100mW and 150mW modules are 4.2V capable. The 50mW, however, is rated as a 3V module, so a series diode would be a safe idea.
 
Maybe I'm just lucky, but out of nearly a dozen green modules from o-like and DX, I haven't blown any from using a lithium cell. I usually use 10440's or 14500's, but I do have an o-like 450mW IR filtered module that is running off 1 x 18650 and works great and is overspec. Note that the o-like 100mW and 150mW modules are 4.2V capable. The 50mW, however, is rated as a 3V module, so a series diode would be a safe idea.
We cannot even expect for a driver to blow out immediately because of one volt extra, I imagine it can only degrade over time and eventually fail.

But this seems to be a new driver, it has an IC covered in round big black spot of glue or something, I also wrote that after ~2minutes of constant operation , the PCB does not get hot, only normally warm.

I am sure that this will last a long time...
No degradation of any kind is visible through 3 full days of 'abuse' so to speak. I held it long enough for heat to transfer to the outter side of host itself, temp of module and host head were alike almost, quite warm.

Well, next stop: 100mW green O-like module, as soon as parts arrive.
Should be this week or so.
 
100mW sounds good in this same host. A dremel tool is very handy for the workbench. It makes cutting, grinding, filing and sanding or polishing go easier. It will also cut that damn epoxy off modules. Hopefully you can get a 100mW module that is not epoxied.
 
100mW sounds good in this same host. A dremel tool is very handy for the workbench. It makes cutting, grinding, filing and sanding or polishing go easier. It will also cut that damn epoxy off modules. Hopefully you can get a 100mW module that is not epoxied.
I'll make sure I get one first chance I get.

100mW was ordered some time ago now, should arrive real soon.
If it is epoxied, I will have time to work on it before the host and everything from DX arrives (ordered the same day).
I think I had a triangular file somewhere, will give it a shot, and let all you know how it went.

When laying the driver on driver pill, a blank AMC board is needed to make battery connection, on the other side of the driver pill (where the AMC drivers are originally meant to go). I have those around, and will make nice laser.
Now I have a surplus one driver pill, I think I could get it machined out to make a c-mount bed... that would be interesting.
 
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