488-505nm Boost Driver

[loreadarkshade]

I have designed a 488nm and 505nm boost driver.
The driver is 15mm in diameter.

Input 3.7v batt. (3v-4.5v)
Output clamped @ 30v
Constant current at 150mA for both 488nm and 505nm (can be changed by SMD feedback shunt resistors).

These diodes are perfectly capable of being over-driven at 150mA, actually they work great at 350mA, but this is all I could get out of this setup, and honestly, it's plenty of power, while maintaining good diode life.

Let me know if this interests anyone for purchase!

 

[hakzaw1]

I have designed a 488nm and 505nm boost driver.
The driver is 15mm in diameter.

Input 3.7v batt. (3v-4.5v)
Output clamped @ 30v
Constant current at 150mA for both 488nm and 505nm (can be changed by SMD feedback shunt resistors).

These diodes are perfectly capable of being over-driven at 150mA, actually they work great at 350mA, but this is all I could get out of this setup, and honestly, it's plenty of power, while maintaining good diode life.

Let me know if this interests anyone for purchase!

View attachment 74840View attachment 74841

Went to one of your older posts to see where you are...

Saw this post and am copypasta it as the info is very valuable,
TY for helping us...Len

Here it is from 2020---
"
Hey! I'm new here too! Here is some advice I'd have loved to know when starting.

1. You NEED a DVD drive that can WRITE to discs (a writable/burner), not just a reader for the powerful laser.

2. Only a few DVD drives has the open can LPC-836 diode we see in Styropyro's videos. (LG GSA H55N)

3. The other DVD burners contain small can diodes which are a little weaker but can still burn at a distance!

4. The higher write speed (16x, 20x) a DVD burner is, the more powerful the diode will be.

5. Not all diodes you will get from the DVDs share the same current draw! You need to make a variable constant current circuit (trim potentiometer in series with resistors in styropyros circuit) to reduce resistance slowly and increase current until max brightness is achieved. Then turn back the dial so your diode will last longer. (ex. 5mA to 200mA) The way to know how much current you are feeding is this formula:
1.25 / R = I
R = resistance of resistors
I = Constant Current in amps fed to diode by the LM317
Styropyro used a 3.3 ohm resistor to power the open can diode, feeding it (1.25 / 3.3 = 0.378 A) or 378mA. This is way too much for the weaker diodes you'll most likely extract.
Use 10ohm resistors for 125mA and 5ohms for ~200mA if the 10 ohms is too dim.

6. The diode will dim when you are over the current limit. This shouldnt damage the diode, but don't do it for long.

7. Buy a cheap ebay laser adjustable focus module for like $5 and put your more powerful diode in! Thats the lenses I use. (AKA Aixiz module)

8. You'll need some LM317 chips like he does in the video. Simple resistor circuit will blow your diodes.

9. There are usually 2 (CD and DVD) diodes in a DVD. The one with a green window is the infrared (CD) laser, and is weaker, but be careful not to blind yourself because the beam is invisible. The one with the blue window is the red laser you want."

copy this and save!!

Len

 

[Giannis_TDM]

Went to one of your older posts to see where you are...

Saw this post and am copypasta it as the info is very valuable,
TY for helping us...Len

Here it is from 2020---
"
Hey! I'm new here too! Here is some advice I'd have loved to know when starting.

1. You NEED a DVD drive that can WRITE to discs (a writable/burner), not just a reader for the powerful laser.

2. Only a few DVD drives has the open can LPC-836 diode we see in Styropyro's videos. (LG GSA H55N)

3. The other DVD burners contain small can diodes which are a little weaker but can still burn at a distance!

4. The higher write speed (16x, 20x) a DVD burner is, the more powerful the diode will be.

5. Not all diodes you will get from the DVDs share the same current draw! You need to make a variable constant current circuit (trim potentiometer in series with resistors in styropyros circuit) to reduce resistance slowly and increase current until max brightness is achieved. Then turn back the dial so your diode will last longer. (ex. 5mA to 200mA) The way to know how much current you are feeding is this formula:
1.25 / R = I
R = resistance of resistors
I = Constant Current in amps fed to diode by the LM317
Styropyro used a 3.3 ohm resistor to power the open can diode, feeding it (1.25 / 3.3 = 0.378 A) or 378mA. This is way too much for the weaker diodes you'll most likely extract.
Use 10ohm resistors for 125mA and 5ohms for ~200mA if the 10 ohms is too dim.

6. The diode will dim when you are over the current limit. This shouldnt damage the diode, but don't do it for long.

7. Buy a cheap ebay laser adjustable focus module for like $5 and put your more powerful diode in! Thats the lenses I use. (AKA Aixiz module)

8. You'll need some LM317 chips like he does in the video. Simple resistor circuit will blow your diodes.

9. There are usually 2 (CD and DVD) diodes in a DVD. The one with a green window is the infrared (CD) laser, and is weaker, but be careful not to blind yourself because the beam is invisible. The one with the blue window is the red laser you want."

copy this and save!!

Len

Well I appreciate your effort but... this info is totally irrelevant?

 

[Giannis_TDM]

I have designed a 488nm and 505nm boost driver.
The driver is 15mm in diameter.

Input 3.7v batt. (3v-4.5v)
Output clamped @ 30v
Constant current at 150mA for both 488nm and 505nm (can be changed by SMD feedback shunt resistors).

These diodes are perfectly capable of being over-driven at 150mA, actually they work great at 350mA, but this is all I could get out of this setup, and honestly, it's plenty of power, while maintaining good diode life.

Let me know if this interests anyone for purchase!

View attachment 74840View attachment 74841

Some advice from a driver designer: use a ground plane on the top layer to maximize the return paths, don't use a singular capacitor of a large value as its ineffective at filtering smaller transients, instead use smaller value caps that total to your calculated value and even better if you vary the cap values (say you need 22uF so you use 2x 10uF and 2x 1uF) to achieve a better filter response. For the circular style drivers put the negative ring on the bottom layer as it makes it easier to build. Reduce the size of the center contact when placing in the aforementioned - ring on the bottom.

And finally, Kind of nitpicky but if you want to level up your CAD game use Kicad instead of easyeda Also take a look at my series of open source drivers for inspiration when I will be also releasing their video and the cad files on my website on the weekend. Also I hope you got a scope to measure their performance and for debugging, cheers!

 

[loreadarkshade]

Some advice from a driver designer: use a ground plane on the top layer to maximize the return paths, don't use a singular capacitor of a large value as its ineffective at filtering smaller transients, instead use smaller value caps that total to your calculated value and even better if you vary the cap values (say you need 22uF so you use 2x 10uF and 2x 1uF) to achieve a better filter response. For the circular style drivers put the negative ring on the bottom layer as it makes it easier to build. Reduce the size of the center contact when placing in the aforementioned - ring on the bottom.

And finally, Kind of nitpicky but if you want to level up your CAD game use Kicad instead of easyeda Also take a look at my series of open source drivers for inspiration when I will be also releasing their video and the cad files on my website on the weekend. Also I hope you got a scope to measure their performance and for debugging, cheers!

Thank you very much for all the tips!
I will definitely take you up on that advice Love the capacitor idea! Genius! and ground plane!

I will have to try kicad, I think I have it installed too lol.. easyeda is just so much easier... (lol) I've honestly been so busy selling lasers on my store I barely had time to design this thing at all!

I have an old scope that jitters on the Y axis.. gotta go fix that. I think its a HV CRT issue.. an old HP 1740A I got for cheap.