30mw true green dx laser @ 4.5 volts

[thejunkmonger]

How would you go about doing that? Do the threads at the bottom of the batt tube separate with force?

Yes the threads and the plug up top are pressed in, managed to extend the tube today with a piece of scrap allu and now my laser runs at 4.5 volts and is able to smoke red electrical tape, my next step is to play around with focus.

 

[thejunkmonger]

With some rubber wrapped around it. I will find a better looking solution when I have some time.

 

[member02]

lol, I like it. Looks like some sort of baton.

hopefully it'll last a while.

 

[laserrod]

Hi all,
I took a pipe cutter to my DX50 then used a sparkplug ceramic insulator blueflame preheated to a piece of 1/2" CPVC pipe(lenth =AAA L + AAA W) to spread the pipe ends over the bat. tube. Soldered a wire to each end on the inside with ends run through tiny holes in the CPVC to complete or add res. to bridge the circuit.
I think .4 amps is safe,I use 3 AAA NI-Mh. I used a 1.5 ohm bridge across the lenthened bat. tube.
Used super glue that come in the .5oz bottle. Don't buy the squeeze tubes, not reusable, they suck.
Sand the tube ends of the neat rubber coating down to copper. copper to CPVC supper glue bond.
Now, it works so much better!!!! NO more voltage /current flucuations, longer bat life and MORE power!

Great tool Tips; buy a 40W Arrow hot glue gun and the long glue sticks at WALFART or hobby shop. You will love it, so easy to put junk together and take apart latter!!
You can always add epoxy/supper G latter for more strenth/ permanentcy.
Also buy no-lead(lead free) soldering tips for longer life. Use water soluble flux too.

Cheers, Questions?

DGM

 

[thejunkmonger]

Had a lot of suggestions to use all kinds of strange batteries which would probably work better and let me make a more compact unit, but considering I currently live in Italy and those batteries are hard to find and expensive here I decided to go with the standard AAA's with a slightly longer unit. So far so good hasn't burned up yet.

 

[Ref]

I'm going to try to hot glue the battery tube from a CR123A powered MXDL onto the end of this 30 and see how that goes (if I dont get lazy when I get home).

 

[MarioMaster]

just watch the duty cycle on your laser, the driver circuit will be dissipating a larger amount of heat from the increased voltage and give that it gets hot normally with only 3v you probably don't wanna be running it longer than 30 seconds or so

 

[Ace82]

I bought several DX 5mW modules mainly for the optics. For the heck of it, I tested one under different voltages. The driver chip actually resisted most of the power (as to protect the diode) when I gave it 3.5V, then 5v, then 6V. The output power didn't seem to increase too much, but the more power i applied, the hotter the chip got! It lasted about 3 sec. with 6V before a circuit popped. : Then I unsoldered the diode and soldered it onto a driver for the DX 150mW (worked very well for 10 sec. till blew) Anyway, I advise not to give a laser more then 3 volts.

 

[Benm]

Had a lot of suggestions to use all kinds of strange batteries which would probably work better and let me make a more compact unit, but considering I currently live in Italy and those batteries are hard to find and expensive here I decided to go with the standard AAA's with a slightly longer unit. So far so good hasn't burned up yet.

Well, if you could get the laser from DX, you can get the 'odd' batteries too, right?

A lithium 10440 only costs a few dollars, nothing to worry about. Even chargers arent that expensive, maybe $20 or so?