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FrozenGate by Avery

300mW+ 650nm Red laser.... Help?

S

SilverFox97

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Feb 25, 2010
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Ok so I bought this laser Diode/Driver. It came with schematics and everything made to build it. Below I included the images. I need help with What kind of power i need to give it. Thanks.
Also i will include the description so that you can determine a accurate power supply.

RedComp223x131.JPG

LM317_158x131.JPG


300mW+ 650nm Red Burning Laser Diode Module with Adjustable Lens
10 part precision Adjustable Constant Current about 100mA to 463mA routed PCB Driver DIY kit with protection circuit included.
Also include Heat Sink for LM317 and Laser Diode Module.
Already routed Professional PCB DIY Kit cannot compare with other seller's amateur kit.



You are bidding on a precision new Single Mode Red 650nm long die open can laser diode module.
Long die open can laser diodes are rated for Class IIIb 300mW+ @650-670nm CW extract from new(never used) DVD Bunner Driver.
This long die open can diode have been probed to be very stable at high power output ranging from 300mW+.
This is long die open can diode so they are extremly fragile therefore must very careful to open lens and must use proper heat sink for high power drive.
The ideal use of this open can diode is 250mW CW at 420mA with acrylic lens( 300mW with glass lens).


Max Output : 300mW+
Max Current : 500mA
Threshold Current : ~80mA
Module : 12mm diameter x 30mm length
Lead wire 30cm(Red plus[+], Black minus[-]) with 2.5mm pitch Connector.
ALL : Assembled and inspected from licenced company.

PCB can change without notice for improvement.


Constant current driver kit include some safety circuit for laser diode protection- 9 part with Heat sink for LM317 and Laser Diode Module .
Circuits included some filter, max current limit(about 463mW) for protect from over current, capacitor discharge and reverse current protection.
Maximum current limit resistor can remove but I don't recommand because it's make easy kill your diode.
I ship copy of driver schematic and layout for easy place parts.


Thanks in advanced to anyone that helps me!!!
 





That's a sweet kit, Someone correct me if I'm wrong please, I believe a 7.2 volt supply should run that nicely. Seen those on ebay, almost bought one.

OK I checked and 7.2 is "ideal voltage"

six rechargeable 1.2 volt batteries.

anything else??
 
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Ok thanks alot. Im gonna give it a try and post an update when i do so. THANKS!!

What if i bought a 7.2 battery pack. Like the ones you use for RC cars? if so should i go for nimh or nicd?
 
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RC battery pack will work fine. I would use the NiMh , NiCd has a "memory effect" so they can start discharging quickly if you use them incorrectly.

Now to find you a good heat sink for that module.

That mini heat sink they sent you sucks.
 
I bought that exact one off eBay, very powerful and as photonaholic said, its a crappy heatsink, but better than nothing i suppose.
 
SilverFox97;

I've tested lots of Red diodes.

Don't try to run it @ 300mw. It won't last.

250mw is a good output level with a good heatsink.

LarryDFW
 
Thanks everyone for your input. Im going to machine a heat sink. I have the required tools to do so. Once I buy the 7.2 volt battery, i will post my results. Again. Thanks!
 
Ok so I hooked up the 7.2 volts and the laser is dim at best. I put it up to 12 volts and still the same. I then got stupid and put about 19.2 volts... just a little brighter.... What should i do ? Thanks
 
Adjust the little screw on that blue thing.....

go back to 7.2V

or in real terms, tweak the pot.

Post a pic of the completed unit, top of board, and bottom of board.
 
photonaholic said:
Adjust the little screw on that blue thing.....

go back to 7.2V

or in real terms, tweak the pot.

Post a pic of the completed unit, top of board, and bottom of board.
Click to expand...


I tweaked the pot and it basically had no difference to the laser. I have not hooked up a volt meter as of yet but I will. Also In the process of taking a few pics... coming soon
 
I really don't know how to say this without sounding insulting or hurting your feelings, I'm sure it was a labor of love on your part....Please just remember I am trying to help you.

The solder joints need improvement, component placement needs to be neater and I surely hope you didn't overheat any of those parts trying.

A good solder joint will look like the one in the middle, the two with arrows pointing at them are bad..

DoorLocks9.jpg


here are examples of bad soldering...

bad_joints.jpg


a guide I just found...

Curious Inventor - Guides : How to Solder

For the rest, I will have to take some pictures myself and upload them.
 
Yea im not exactly a electronics engineer or anything but i was giving it a shot. Im going to go and buy all new parts and re-do this properly. I will post my updates as i go. Thank you for your input! And I really Appreciate your help! I look forward to your pic's as well
 
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Practice soldering on some scraps first.

Radio shack sells a copper braid wick that will remove your solder quickly, and leave a nice flux behind for the re-do.

I still have to go down in my shop and get a couple resistors so I can show you how to mount them nicely.
 
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