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FrozenGate by Avery

268mW 6X Key Chain Blu-ray! (With FlexDrive!) - Awesome!

Hey Jay. For this build, does the switch have to be bypassed? I am having trouble finding which lead makes the switch momentary. I followed your directions carefully, but the circuit now does something strange. When I initially click the button the current is half power, then when I release it goes on to full power. Sometimes if i do it just right the switch works just like I want it to. I cant figure out what is going on with this thing. Thanks for your help.
 





Yeah the board has a tiny resistor on it, as well as some kind of a component inside that center blob of glue...

So it's a matter of chipping it off there, and testing with your DMM for some contact points to the switch.

I show some pictures in the first post, but the continuity testing with the DMM is the main thing.

I remember that I had to scrape through the board in one area to sever a trace that went where I did not want it to go. Towards the edge of the board...

This is one of the trickiest builds that I have for a kit. Generally,the smaller the build, the harder it is. But if you get that board circuit disabled, you can then do the build. And you will find that this is one of the coolest little lasers you have!

I have a low powered 445 one set at 275mA's putting out 78mW's. And it is awesome. 78mW's of 445 is significantly brighter than a class 4 blu-ray... :cool:
 
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The ONLY reason I am not biting at this host is because I cant get a charger for the batteries. And I don't understand how the two boards connect.
 
After you find the positive and negative leads from the modified board/switch, you can then use fine wire to connect your FlexDrive. The V5 FlexDrive is smaller than the earlier versions I show in my pictures, so it can fit without being trimmed. But it is a little thicker. However I believe there are a few out there who have done this build with a V5 FlexDrive. So I am assuming it will fit. Even though I used V3 FlexDrives with my three builds...

key2.jpg


The 10280 battery, as well as the Nano charger that works well for it, are at lighthound.com

But yeah... this little build is for those who like a challenge.

It's not really that hard, but it's best suited for a very experienced builder. (IMO)

It could still be done as a first build, but I'm just trying to be honest about the build difficulty level...
 
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You do remember that I have an SS 18650 from you, right? :)

Where does the what wires connect to what? Makes sense? I know it goes to the button but just one wire or what? (Sorry, just doesn't make sense.)
 
No I know...

I didn't mean that directly towards you, but was 'speaking in genral', because I know others will be reading the information.

The battery negative is the host, the head of the host screws on, and makes contact with the wire shown in this picture...

key3.jpg


So you have to use your DMM to find the solder point that is the trace to that wire on the stock board for your lead wire that feeds your FlexDrive negative.

The positive lead comes from the switch leg that is continuous with the spring after you press the button.

But before you do any of that, you must make sure the stock circuit is disabled on the board.

My first one, I had working pefectly except for one little thing, the battery would slowly drain. I could get some slight current draw with my meter from battery negative to host.

So I looked further, and found that there was a tiny trace that was near the edge of the stock board. (not sure why, it had something to do with the little circuit that allows a momentary button to some how operate as a 'press on / press off' set up)

That's how this little key chain light is. It is a momentary button that somehow presses on, and stays on until you press it again.

Anyway, after I scraped through the board deep enough to sever the trace, it did not draw that small current from the battery any longer. I can leave the battery in there for months...

I think I'll add this to the OP...
 
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We know that the V4 FlexDrive fits fine, post back and let us know how the V5 fits... :)
 
Yes I used the v5. It was tight, but I even got it to fit in sideways. I used to high gauge of wire which caused all sorts of problems, but with some trimming of the switch circuit and button I got it all to fit. It wasn't pretty so I didn't take any pictures. I will know better for next time.

What gauge of wire were you using?
 
I don't know the exact gauge, but I get if from a computer mouse cord. There are several strands for fine wire in a mouse cord that are perfect for laser builds...

I like the copper best...

But I just got some of that wire from FleminPyro, and it is awesome stuff to use as well. Maybe a little thicker, but super flexible...
 
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