2 Questions about batteries in laser

[LEDbeam]

Be carefull with the duty cycle.
I believe JLaser is over rating it. You have a SS host and a small 12 module, even if it a copper module he's rating it at 30 seconds on but a good 5 minutes off.
I wouldn't do more than 20 seconds on.

He has a IR laser in the same host at 500mw and mentions a 100% cycle. No way on that cycle.
Same host with a 1.6W blue aand he's got it at 1 minute on

I have another laser from him using the same host. It's the 700mw 520nm. 1 minute on, 5 minutes off, and that's 1/5th the wattage of the one I was considering. I try not to do more than 30 seconds on, just to be safe, but sometimes I lose track of how long it's been. I try to stop if the laser head feels warm.

C3 - Antares (700mW 520nm)

OD 4+ Laser Safety Goggles are required to operate this product. (520nm range)Requires 1x 14500 3.7v button top, unprotected cell capable of at least 3A CONTINUOUS. (not included) Keep lens CLEAN! DO NOT BURN OBJECTS CLOSELY! Lens may be damaged.Recommended duty cycle: 1 minute ON, 5 minutes...

jlasers.org

 

[zigzag123]

I have another laser from him using the same host. It's the 700mw 520nm. 1 minute on, 5 minutes off, and that's 1/5th the wattage of the one I was considering. I try not to do more than 30 seconds on, just to be safe, but sometimes I lose track of how long it's been. I try to stop if the laser head feels warm.

C3 - Antares (700mW 520nm)

OD 4+ Laser Safety Goggles are required to operate this product. (520nm range)Requires 1x 14500 3.7v button top, unprotected cell capable of at least 3A CONTINUOUS. (not included) Keep lens CLEAN! DO NOT BURN OBJECTS CLOSELY! Lens may be damaged.Recommended duty cycle: 1 minute ON, 5 minutes...

jlasers.org

Green direct diode lasers get very hot. I would guess a 700mW 520nm compares to a 2.5 to 3W blue.
Can you see what the 12mm module is made from? That makes a big difference.

Like you mentioned keep the run time at 30 seconds max. JLasers is good at keeping the down time at 5 minutes

 

[LEDbeam]

Green direct diode lasers get very hot. I would guess a 700mW 520nm compares to a 2.5 to 3W blue.
Can you see what the 12mm module is made from? That makes a big difference.

Like you mentioned keep the run time at 30 seconds max. JLasers is good at keeping the down time at 5 minutes

No, and I wouldn't know how to find out. If I start taking things apart, I'd probably wreck it since I'm not familiar with laser building.
But here is the diode (I'm assuming that's what you're referring to) that he sells on his site that is probably the same as he built my laser with: https://jlasers.org/products/diode-gh05c01a9g-700mw-520nm
I don't know if you can find the answer by looking at this.

 

[zigzag123]

No, and I wouldn't know how to find out. If I start taking things apart, I'd probably wreck it since I'm not familiar with laser building.
But here is the diode (I'm assuming that's what you're referring to) that he sells on his site that is probably the same as he built my laser with: https://jlasers.org/products/diode-gh05c01a9g-700mw-520nm
I don't know if you can find the answer by looking at this.

Its easy to see.
Its the on the front where the threaded piece screws in to that focused the laser. Its the round piece right next to the host itself.
Can you tell me what color it is?

 

[zigzag123]

This part where the red line is pointing to, the round piece closest to the host. Sorry for the shaky line..

 

[LEDbeam]

Its easy to see.
Its the on the front where the threaded piece screws in to that focused the laser. Its the round piece right next to the host itself.
Can you tell me what color it is?

Against my better judgement, I unscrewed the focusing ring until it came off. There is a spring underneath it which wouldn't come out, and I couldn't see anything beneath that. As for colors, everything is silver which is the same as the entire body of the laser. The focusing ring is silver, as is the area around it on the front end, and everything beneath the focusing ring is silver.
BTW, I just managed to put the focusing ring back on and get the laser re-focused, so all is well with that.

 

[LEDbeam]

This part where the red line is pointing to, the round piece closest to the host. Sorry for the shaky line..

I went ahead and just took a close-up picture.
I may not be technically proficient with lasers, but I can manage a good camera close-up!
Everything here is silver colored.

 

[zigzag123]

I went ahead and just took a close-up picture.
I may not be technically proficient with lasers, but I can manage a good camera close-up!
Everything here is silver colored.
View attachment 80542

That picture you posted is perfect..
So it looks like he's building the ones he sells with a aluminum module but his sight shows a copper heatsink The copper would be
a yellowish color. Thats kind of weasaly of JLasers.

Copper is a better heatsink than aluiminum. So now you have to defentely keep the run time to no more than 20 seconds. Anymore willl kill the laser quicker over time.

Oh I remember when I first joined I unscrewed the focus knob from the the lens and the spring also popped out.
I thought I broke my laser and was PMing everyone in a panic.
Glad you figured irt out. The spring is there to put a little presure on the back of the threaded lens and help keep it from wiggleing. That knurled silver piece attaches to the lens to help you not burn your fingers Make sure the spring is centered in the hole and around the diode..and the silver piece should be finger tight to the threated lens or it will spin and not focus proper.

Follow a 20 second on and at least 2 minutes off on all your JLasers..

 

[LEDbeam]

That picture you posted is perfect..
So it looks like he's building the ones he sells with a aluminum module but his sight shows a copper heatsink The copper would be
a yellowish color. Thats kind of weasaly of JLasers.

Copper is a better heatsink than aluiminum. So now you have to defentely keep the run time to no more than 20 seconds. Anymore willl kill the laser quicker over time.

Oh I remember when I first joined I unscrewed the focus knob from the the lens and the spring also popped out.
I thought I broke my laser and was PMing everyone in a panic.
Glad you figured irt out. The spring is there to put a little presure on the back of the threaded lens and help keep it from wiggleing. That knurled silver piece attaches to the lens to help you not burn your fingers Make sure the spring is centered in the hole and around the diode..and the silver piece should be finger tight to the threated lens or it will spin and not focus proper.

Follow a 20 second on and at least 2 minutes off on all your JLasers..

The one in my picture is the 700mw 520nm.
Were you referring to the Antares 700mw or the Orion 3.5Watt 465nm when you said it showed a copper heatsink on the website?
I'm hoping the Orion has the copper since the higher wattage would need it more. Also since I was thinking of getting one.

 

[Encap]

The one in my picture is the 700mw 520nm.
Were you referring to the Antares 700mw or the Orion 3.5Watt 465nm when you said it showed a copper heatsink on the website?
I'm hoping the Orion has the copper since the higher wattage would need it more. Also since I was thinking of getting one.

If you want an actual clue ask the dog that bit you instead of speculating. lol
You are a customer and you want an answer to a speculation about the vendors heatsinks.
Simply email JLasers and ask if the "Orion" has a copper heatsink. -In fact ask if any of Jlasers pointers feature a copper heat sink. sales@jlasers.org
Post what the reply is in this thread letting LPF members know what "loreadarkshade "/Jlasers says.