Welcome to Laser Pointer Forums - discuss green laser pointers, blue laser pointers, and all types of lasers

Buy Site Supporter Role (remove some ads) | LPF Donations

Links below open in new window

FrozenGate by Avery

16x upgrade to 20x long open can AA's

Joined
Jan 11, 2009
Messages
204
Points
0
I first got into lasers watching you tube and first saw the "kip-kay" mini mag flash light prodject using an Aixiz 200mw 650nm red diode wired straight off of two AA batteries with no driver and used lithium batteries at that and is still going strong after a year...I have since learned about using "driver circuits" to protect the diode. With all that put aside and knowing using a driver is safer for the diode, still using NO driver for this one up grade and using a 20x long open can 650nm red laser diode in the 16x 200mw place, what kind of mw expected power will two AA's that are 3.4 volts total and straight into the diode put out in mw power pulsed , and say steady running 1 minute tappered off average mw power level over the 200mw 16x version using an Aixiz glass lens? Also would a 6x blue ray 405nm work with this same set up with no driver and survive and what mw output pulsed and steady run time would it produce compared to the 20x long open can upgrade?
 





You are going to get pretty much the exact same power as the 16x because the only thing limiting current going into the laser diode is the internal resistance of the batteries, the voltage of the batteries really doesn't matter. I say just leave what you have as it is and call it a lucky build. I really suggest trying a build with a driver because a $5 to even a $25 driver will protect your investment and save you the hassle of replacing dead diodes.
 
zxn474l;

The next step up, would be a #18650 battery with resistor (3.9 ohms) for your 20X Red.

This is the host I used for my Red open can build:
redlaser.jpg

1. It is Hard Anodized Type III for exterior durability.
2. It uses a #18650 Li-Ion battery for long cycles between charging.
3. It has a larger front area exposed for heatsinking high-power diodes
4. It has room for a driver in an aluminum pill.
(LM317, MosFet, or switcher)
5. It is substantial and has good machining
6. It has a durable switch

A BR 6X needs at least 5.1 volts to give a decent power.

LarryDFW
 
Last edited:
LarryDFW, in this flshlight host are you just powering this 20x red 650nm laser diode with this battery and then only a 3.9 ohm resistor to limit current? These red diodes are so cheap that I really dont care if the diode survives years and years just want the maximum burning power it can offer with a pulsed momentary switch. Does the diode it self(20x) produce more mw power than the 16x or is it just more suitable for higher current? What kind of mw power would you guess a 20x or even a 16x be producing without a driver with 2 AA batteries straight wired with a momentary switch in mw's?
 
zxn474l;

You need a good multimeter ...
to determine accurate current levels thru each of the diodes in question.

As the diode heats up, it will draw slightly more current, depending on the heatsink efficiency.

So, you should check the current after a significant amount of run time.

The Red open can is more suitable for high current levels.

I originally did use resistors, but now I use regulators & static protection.

I have never blown a Red diode with many different drive setups.

My BR builds have never blown a diode either.

I have destroyed a couple of BR's on the test bench (voltage spikes).

LarryDFW
 
Last edited:





Back
Top