12x BR DIODES

[CTM]

I guess we'll never now the current being used.
I am not willing to take it apart now that I know it works with the new battery I'm using, unless there is a way to check the current without disassembling it.
I feel I angered jayrob - I gave you credit to the parts I'm using.

 

[jayrob]

No... not angered at all??

Did I do the 'Hot' option on that? I really didn't check my records... I thought you told me that I did the 'Hot' option when you asked me to measure the power for you...

 

[CTM]

Yes, you did.
I just meant FrancoRob put a "?" under the current in the datasheet. It seems we all have doubts about it. or are we misunderstanding something else?

 

[daguin]

Yes, you did.
I just meant FrancoRob put a "?" under the current in the datasheet. It seems we all have doubts about it. or are we misunderstanding something else?

At that output, odds are that something got "bumped" accidentally.

That's all.

This output is WELL beyond even the most efficient diodes at 360mA.

Peace,
dave

 

[jayrob]

It's just that although I know I set it at 360mA's, there is a real possibility that the pot got 'jarred' or something else during your assembly...

Because from all of the data we have so far, it would be highly unlikely (pretty much impossible as far as we know), to be putting out 688mW's at that current.

But of course we don't know for sure what is happening. Another possibility, is that somehow something is shorting and bypassing the driver to give a direct connection to the battery. But that is most likely not the case... Because you told me that it was 'cutting out' after a few seconds with a CR123 primary.

But now with a rechargeable, it is not cutting out any longer. That means that the FlexDrive is set high, and it needed extra voltage to run your 12X at the high setting... And the 3 volt battery wasn't quite enough. (all just guesses)

 

[CTM]

Any way I can do something to check the current, or should we just go along our business and forget about it?
I have minimal resources. I even had to use a hammer to press the diode into the module because I didn't have a vise (not really a hammer, more of a blunt object; pretty much anything I could smash it down with).

I should also mention that I wasn't the solderer in this operation. If that could have anything to do with it??

 

[jayrob]

Man, you better not mess with it without the proper tools...

With a FlexDrive build, you cannot check the current from the battery draw like you can with a linear driver. In a linear driver build, the battery current draw will be the same as the current to the diode...

But not so in a FlexDrive build. Because the driver is using extra current to boost voltage in a single battery blu-ray build...

 

[daguin]

Any way I can do something to check the current, or should we just go along our business and forget about it?
I have minimal resources. I even had to use a hammer to press the diode into the module because I didn't have a vise.

The only way to check it now would be to disassemble it and run the driver through a test load or place a DMM in series with the diode.

You are pushing the envelope here. Enjoy living on the edge. :drool:

The other option is to open it back up and just turn down the pot until it is producing a more "normal" output. We still won't know what the current is, but you will no longer be living on the edge (and you won't be "messing with" the solder joints at the diode)

Peace,
dave

 

[CTM]

The only way to check it now would be to disassemble it and run the driver through a test load or place a DMM in series with the diode.

You are pushing the envelope here. Enjoy living on the edge. :drool:

The other option is to open it back up and just turn down the pot until it is producing a more "normal" output. We still won't know what the current is, but you will no longer be living on the edge (and you won't be "messing with" the solder joints at the diode)

Peace,
dave

Dave...,
...
I do not have the equipment to perform these measures.

 

[daguin]

Dave...,
...
I do not have the equipment to perform these measures.

Enjoy it and please keep us posted.

Protect your eyes and the eyes of those around you

Peace,
dave

 

[pianoman2011]

I have one 12x diode that I bought from Dave (daguin). It is installed in a Jayrob CR2 keychain host. Heres the stats:

Host: Jayrob Keychain CR2
Battery: RCR2 "800mAh" 3.0V (charged to 3.6V) http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.932
Driver: FlexDrive V5
Current: 395mA
Lens: Stock Aixiz (Back Opened Up)
Power Output: 395mW

I will be getting a 405-G-1 Jayrob lens in about a week. Dave has recommended submitting the data, and Jayrob said to wait until I have the 405-G-1 lens, so you might not want to put this on the graph yet since it is very temporary.

But once I have the lens, my laser should be putting out >500mW Quite some power for the Keychain CR2 host if I do say so myself

-Jakob

 

[jayrob]

I have one 12x diode that I bought from Dave (daguin). It is installed in a Jayrob CR2 keychain host. Heres the stats:

Host: Jayrob Keychain CR2
Battery: RCR2 "800mAh" 3.0V (charged to 3.6V)
Driver: FlexDrive V5
Current: 395mA
Lens: Stock Aixiz (Back Opened Up)
Power Output: 395mW

I will be getting a 405-G-1 Jayrob lens in about a week. Dave has recommended submitting the data, and Jayrob said to wait until I have the 405-G-1 lens, so you might not want to put this on the graph yet since it is very temporary.

But once I have the lens, my laser should be putting out >500mW Quite some power for the Keychain CR2 host if I do say so myself

-Jakob

You should see at least a 26% increase in power. (vs AixiZ acrylic - back opened) Which would be right around 500mW's...

Congratulations on your build! :gj:

The first 12X Key Chain CR2!

This battery is recommended for that build: (more voltage, less boosting needed)
RCR2 Unprotected Rechargeable Lithium Battery

 

[Slipstream]

I dont seem to see alot of info on the B940SA 12x plextor drive .

I picked one up today and installed it into my recently deceased 8x. Same mA , 460. Outputting 640mw.

In a Jayrob heatsink with a larryDFW lens no spring assembly, Flex 4.

The only difference i've noticed between the 8x and the 12x so far has been about 30mw difference and it stays a bit cooler.

the diode had some pretty long pins.

 

[pianoman2011]

You should see at least a 26% increase in power (vs AixiZ acrylic - back opened), which would be right around 500mW's...

Congratulations on your build! :gj:

The first 12X Key Chain CR2!

This battery is recommended for that build: (more voltage, less boosting needed)
RCR2 Unprotected Rechargeable Lithium Battery

Thanks Jayrob! I am pretty proud to be the first owner/builder of a 12x in this host :san:

BTW this is the battery I used:

DealExtreme: $3.82 Rechargeable 3V CR2 800mAh Green 2 Packs

I'll probably buy one of the recommended ones soon though.

-Jakob

 

[daguin]

I dont seem to see alot of info on the B940SA 12x plextor drive .

I picked one up today and installed it into my recently deceased 8x. Same mA , 460. Outputting 640mw.

In a Jayrob heatsink with a larryDFW lens no spring assembly, Flex 4.

The only difference i've noticed between the 8x and the 12x so far has been about 30mw difference and it stays a bit cooler.

the diode had some pretty long pins.

Do you have a picture of the sled (or can you send it to me)? Plextor is a re-brander. Maybe we can tell which drive they are using.

Peace,
dave

 

[Slipstream]

I should have kept it.. it got tossed out along with the rest of the trash today.

It doesnt have a metal covering over the diodes or the lenses. it does have the focusing motorized mechanism.

its made out of the aluminum alloy as seen in other sleds. and the BR diode is far away from the first optic , the cube.

the ribbon assembly is not covering it also. its completely out in the open as far as the innards.

but it did have a small red open can , as mentioned in other threads for the 12x's which was located inside the sled , the BR was outside the sled.