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Thanks. Did a little more work on it. Couldn't leave anything done as it is, as usual ;) I dremeled some tiny channels on each side of the USB module and put in some tiny BB's in it to limit the flip out angle. You can barely see the BB on this. Limits the opening angle to only that much to...

**I also could have put this in the red lasers section but I like the 520nm green a little more. ;) Having nothing much to do during lockdown, I tore apart my two old lasers which both used cheap flashlights and broken lasers as hosts. I got tired of carrying several lasers on outdoor trips so...

Nice. I was also thinking of using rocker switches, but with a really tiny battery, I didn't think runtime would last long so I just reused the momentary button switch and it's still fine. I didn't take a lot of pics but these are just what I had. For a laser diode and driver that went through...

I made a pen laser circa 2012-2013 powered by AAAs or 10440 cell and forgot about it in my pant pocket a while back and it took a bath with the laundry. Forgot about it for a few years then saw it dismantled with the diode and driver which survived the bath, waiting to be built into a new laser...

Yes, possibly the cat. As mentioned, have a shop use an A/F sensor test the exhaust if the downstream ones are reading right. There could also be a possibility that the wiring gets wet during rains and alters the output voltage of the o2 sensors. Have them inspect the wires and plugs.

It is mostly about the price. Copper prices have increased dramatically. If you are a manufacturer, saving $0.001 per part is a lot if you plan to make hundreds of thousands to millions of products, multiply that by the number of parts inside each product. For electrolytics, I think it would be...

All Electrolytics have steel leads, even the older ones. Most LED leadframes are steel. They corrode and rust when wet in those christmas lights used outdoors. I have compared 60/40 and 63/37 and the difference is clear. I only use 63/37 in all my projects or sometimes the 62/36/2 with silver...

I have quality solders that have expiry dates of about 2years from manufacture. It has something to do that the manufacturer can guarantee effectivity of the flux in wetting oxidized components. Although I have used ones that seem to work fine well past its "use by" date, I also noticed some...

Not sure if it has been mentioned before, get decent quality 63/37 eutectic solder rather than the old 60/40 blend. It results to much better looking joints. I had been using the old 30W cheap irons for years, stepped up to a cheap 60W temp controlled pencil (controller built into the handle...

I saw the vid and thought the guys here at LPF should be all over it. Sure enough, it has been posted already :) Looking forward to the next vids.

If only you were somewhere close. I could use all those protection PCBs. Mainly have a need for the current shunt they use and probably the switching mosfets and thermistors too.

I would think of using a same cap supply for a flash tube. A few hundred V and forget about contacts, use a beefy SCR to control the current and dump everything into the wire when triggered. I did that before using a thin wire to light up firecrackers from a photoflash cap charged to 300V...

I think you are confused with TTL and potentiometer or trimmer. TTL = transistor - transistor logic which refers to a 0V or 5V signal that turns the beam on or off. A potentiometer (which is a control with a knob) is much like a volume control on your stereo. Turning it adjusts whatever it...

From what I can see from the videos in youtube, these are similar to fresnel lenses but are in strips not circles. Thus the effect is similar to cylindrical lenses that spread the beam sideways. These are used for hologram 3D pictures or those pics that change images as you change the viewing...

1N4937 is a fast recovery diode. UF4007 is the ultrafast version of the 1N4007 which is designed only for general purpose, mains frequency use. If it works, then it must be luck. If the diode is only used for absorbing spikes then you could get away with it but for something that rectifies the...

UF4007 (NOT 1N4007!) should work as a substitute.

Having a 3.2W focused to a cockroach does nothing but put out a puff of smoke and lightly burn the back before it runs away. Although having one on its back and the laser defocused illuminating the whole underbelly for a couple minutes kills it. Not a quick death though but beats the hell out...

It is used so that you don't get confused with the low res IR image. You'll have better idea of what you are looking at. It works well but needs to adjust offset between the visible and IR cameras so that the images overlay correctly.

The "beam" seen is not actually heat. It has FLIR's MSX technology which overlays the visible and infrared images so what you are actually seeing is the visible light beam.

The FLIR one IIRC is about $350. Some lasers here cost much more than that. Get an E4 and hack it. Flir One is 80x60. The stock E4 is 80x60 but can be hacked to 320x240 resolution with additional menu functions.