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Glad to hear you got it sorted! Those pesky ground issues can be funny things.. without actually getting my hands in your setup I can't say how yours differs from most others.

Depending on power involved it seems like a properly chosen DC-DC converter would be ideal here.. 9-36VDC in, +/-12VDC out, sources a decent amount of current. Both rails from one 9-36VDC input: VYB10W-Q24-D12-T CUI Inc | 102-2310-ND | DigiKey On ebay (much cheaper, slightly lower power...

Nice! Are your USB converters buffered? Almost have to be at 95m..

True that Jerry.. the difference that PL's overpopulation of whiners make in anyone's life is so miniscule as to be ignored.

I'm having a hard time thinking of anything on earth with lower importance than what the PL crowd likes. The more people within the greater laser community that hear and see feedback from buyers and sellers the better it is for business throughout the greater laser community. At least IMO..

I just love it when forum software decides to change code all on it's own. When you hit ctrl-v into a hyperlink box the result is pretty straightforward.. or at least it should be. Try this.

Ah, but then there's this.

Those TL062 op-amps are actually dual op-amps, so you'd only be using half of it in those parts of the schematic, hence the 1/2 mark. You can most likely get any of the thru-hole varieties you see and be good to go. EDIT: Missed cyparagon's answer.. I was distracted by the cat. What a pain in...

Yep, he's known for it. Glad to see someone else keeping track of these things too.. I just love how there's always some idiot over on PL talking about how their sellers should be allowed to do whatever they want with no obligation to their customers. drlava started that trend, and apparently...

Want to pipe up here once again.. it's easy for me to find time to post on LPF when I'm at my day job, but very hard for me to find time to set things up outside of work for a proper review here. Once I have a bit of time without shows to prepare for or other work I will post pics etc. These 2...

Yeah I dunno.. one of the things that always annoyed me about some of the PL crowd was their insistance that members should have to donate to the admin or post some sort of amazing posts in order to utilize the site fully, as in accessing certain deals and discounts, or in a particularly...

^Listen to the man..

I'd disconnect 'em. RTFM (Page 4, in Chinglish under "In/Outputs"): http://www.te-lighting.com/eng/supports/specifi/30K%20Scanners.pdf Meaning no ground connection between the DAC (computer) and the galvo amps (drivers)

I would do the following: 1) connect pin 25 to ground. 2) disconnect Galvo signal inputs from ground.

Yessir!.. Lowering the heat buildup will help extend lifetime, but not indefinitely and probably not significantly in cases other than cases of extreme heating. Heat is an enemy of electronics in general, but it's effects vary greatly from device to device and from circuit to circuit.

Differential signals also eliminate a few different types of noise/interference that can become problematic with long cable runs.

Th "2hz" is actually a beat frequency.. what is happening is 50-60Hz line frequency is being superimposed on the image, which itself is being scanned at a certain frequency. The resulting beat frequency at which the image oscillates might appear to be only be around 2Hz.

110% sure. Ground is necessary on the galvo amp POWER connections, not the signal inputs. I had issues with smaller than normal scan angle until I disconnected the grounds on the signal inputs.. not sure why exactly. They are differential yes, but the signal comes in on only two wires, + and -...

On Chinese galvo sets the X and Y channel grounds should be left disconnected. Only connect the + and - on the amp inputs. I should have added that in my last post lol.. All grounds EXCEPT the galvo amp inputs from ILDA. The galvo amp POWER grounds MUST be connected to the central ground.

Make sure all grounds in the projector are connected to a central ground point.