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Done this build quite some time ago, instead of doing a thread on it, I thought I would rather do a video, just to mix things up a little. It's just a simple video so yeah, please don't mind the lack of music and etc etc. Overall verdict: I would still go for the NUGM03. Compared to the...

The power could vary a bit from 5W but you can probably contact sanwu and get them to send you a unit that is guaranteed to reach 5W. The laser diode in there is most likely a NUBM07E. Its a Gball diode meaning it has its own focusing lens built into the laser diode. However the lens isn't...

I just shot an email at techhood, according to them, it's a 4X correction on those little C lenses. Looks rather promising. Might get one for the heck of it.

Would be great to find out the specific correction factor on them. However, even at 2X correction ya can't go wrong with it given its super small size. Now some really tiny corrected builds are a possibility.

I have quite some experience with this particular driver. Had some since a year ago. Definitely designed for single mode blues and violets. Seems like it doesn't like to do higher Vf diodes. Initially i wanted to use it to push the sharp 505 to 100mW but when i maxed out the pot setting it...

+1 on this. I would LOOOOOVE some 16.80 mm or 17 mm circular drivers, be it buck, boost or linear. Personally, i need this form factor to complete a set of three stainless steel C3 builds with R G and B. This form factor of drivers would also allow for much shorter and compact builds.

There are a few threads here on setting driver current. I use two torchlight LEDs in series to act as a 5V load. Just measure the current using a multimeter in series with the test load. Then turn the pot until the current reaches your desired level. For storing extra lenses, I just throw them...

Maybe the output just looks like trash...because the diode window has been crushed and the light is bouncing around in there with all the small pieces of broken glass around? Anyway, to decan a diode you would also need to remove the diode from your module. Not sure if DTR sells diode removing...

I have a few of these drivers, handy little boost drivers but for whatever reason it seems like its doesn't like the higher Vf diodes. Used it to run a sharp 505nm 30mW and couldn't get it bright enough to my liking, maybe we just gotta mod the shunt resistor and allow for more current output...

Uhmmm basically his module is just a longer version of the standard module, to facilitate the longer focal length of the G8 lens. You don't need to do much, just press your diode into his module and it will work with a G8 lens. No need to move your diode position around or anything. As I said...

The G8 lens is basically the longest focal length lens we normally use for our lasers. This means it has to sit quite far away from the emitting point of the laser diode, to get a good infinite focus. The length of the G8 lens holder isn't a problem. Even if it was longer, it will still need...

Not much to say here other than: "Damn..." I bet everyone's watching closely to see your progress on this build. Side note: It seems like i have found the reason why my sharp GH0637AA2G died. I was driving it around 600mA with an amc7135 driver, it was a really basic driver with no...

Not strictly laser related but this video goes into detail on colours and human vision. Kinda makes sense why 488nm lasers are hard to capture on cameras since the camera sensor is RGB and not continuum. Heck, even our eyes are RGB. PS: If you are interested in special effects and CGI...

Ah, then it's probably other issues/a dead laser. Since you already contacted sanwu, that wouldn't be a problem. Sorry to hear that your laser is DOA but those 303,304 style lasers aren't exactly high quality. But it's a good thing that you purchased it through a reputable source such as sanwu.

Try using the tail cap from one of the other 304 lasers. It could be a tailcap issue. I had similar problems with a 303 green laser. If it is a tailcap issue then you could just ask sanwu to send you a replacement tailcap.

Those pen lasers are hard to get in higher powers. Most of them are around 5-50mW at best. Also, if the brightness decreases suddenly, it could mean that the laser is mode hopping/ the infrared pump diode is broken. Anyway, those pens lasers are literally the cheapest commercially made laser...

Hmm I'm not too sure about that. I think they do offer protected cells. I monitor my batteries constantly to make sure they don't discharge to 2.5V But yes, I'd say that a protected cell would be better in this case.

Alternatively you can use two 18350 cells in a c6 type host. I personally use two Efest 18350 (each supports continuous 10A draw) and they work wonderfully. Edit: Make sure you use a buck driver when you use two cells and a boost driver if you use one cell.

Yikes. First time i have seen this in the laser community. I know the prices of some earphones/headphones can shoot up in the same day when some youtuber drops a review on them. All the more reason to go DIY.

Websites such as Sanwu and Jetlasers are well known. Countless members here have purchased from them and are happy customers. I have read about their customer service and the only boo-boo i've seen is regarding shipping, which is not really their fault. Wicked lasers used to be a legit site a...