5W FAC laser diode ( line output )

[Dusty_Lenses]

I build a cutter head that uses two NUBM44 diodes (i think the V1 variant, they are old).
I used cylindrical lenses to square up the beam near field and used a PBS to add a second diode.
The third diode is just a cheap 660nm diode that runs at low power. Its mixed with a dichroic.

This gives me the ability to line my workpiece up without taking the safety glasses off.
It also is perfectly aligned to the blue beam.

A changeable and adjustable focus (i tried F60 and F30) finishes the beam.
I also added air assist.

This thing is just a beast. I even cuts trough 8mm plywood (granted at multiple slow passes). I would need to get a longer focal length lens for a longer beam waist. F60 is not enough for 8mm plywood.
Fast engraving of anodized aluminum is a piece of cake.

View attachment 74487

This setup should give a smaller spot (i measured <0,05mm in both axies with a F30 lens) than FACed diodes with just one collimating lens.
The FACed diode would need two cylindrical (or more for tighter spaces) lenses to correct the astigmatism of the diode die.

Damn thats a sweet looking setup. Very nice work

edit. whered you get the waveplate?

 

[farbe2]

Phillip e.g: Live Lasersystems

 

[RedCowboy]

It's curious, I posted about Live lasersystems c-lens corrected sparrow units and now they are not listed, I wonder why ?

You can also get then from OPTLasers
Rotators

 

[Dusty_Lenses]

Why are these sets from china showing three lenses opposed to the
two im used to seeing? Any ideas on the difference?

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[farbe2]

I posted about Live lasersystems c-lens corrected sparrow units and now they are not listed, I wonder why ?

Phillip is cooking up something new.

...three lenses ...

Thats just because of size reasons.
The chinese use a FACed diode, there are multiple options on collimating them
A simple one would be to just "wait" (distance diode-lens) for the beam to get to the size you want. Than a c-lens is placed to straighten the beam out. That needs to be done for both axies. The slow axies would take quite some time to expand to a usable size e.g. long distance.

A different method would be to expand the slow axies to have a wider spread, thus needing less distance to reach the desired output beam size. Than again a c-lens is used to collimate that beam.

So either 2 lenses in a physically big setup or a small setup with 3 lenses. (technically there are 3-4 lenses, one is hidden in the diode can, the actual FAC optic)

Non FACed diodes just need a collimating lens, just like your normal G8.
Using two c-lenses, one can now expand the slow axies to the desired size and again "straighten" that out with another c-lens.

Both concepts work.

A FACed diode with the square option will work with a single lens. Here the FAC slows the fast axies down to the same level as the slow axis. So just "waiting" a distance until the beam expands to a beam size you like and than placing an appropriate Aspheric lens will collimate the beam just fine.

 

[RedCowboy]

The Chinese 3 lens set is also very small. The Cylindrical convex is 7mm x 7mm and the cylindrical concave is 5mm x 7mm and the extra optic is 8mm x 7mm.
When I tested the green set the AR coating didn't seem to be all that good.

 

[Hemlock_Mike]

RC -- I sent you a "conversation" but I'll try here now. I have a NUBM-06 diode from DTR mounted in a 9 mm
housing. Which focus lens will work with that diode's long nose??
Mike

 

[RedCowboy]

Is it de-canned....that is have you or Jordan removed the G-Ball can and lens ?

If so I don't recall the pedestal being any higher/thicker, but if it is then the only lens that would have trouble would be the G8 as it might fall out of the standard copper modules threads before you can get an infinity focus, I know I have used the 3E and G2 with a de-canned nubm06 before......pretty sure I had used a nubm07 as well.......or are you trying to use a lens with the GBall can still intact/attached ?

 

[Hemlock_Mike]

Is it de-canned....that is have you or Jordan removed the G-Ball can and lens ?

If so I don't recall the pedestal being any higher/thicker, but if it is then the only lens that would have trouble would be the G8 as it might fall out of the standard copper modules threads before you can get an infinity focus, I know I have used the 3E and G2 with a de-canned nubm06 before......pretty sure I had used a nubm07 as well.......or are you trying to use a lens with the GBall can still intact/attached ?

The G ball is still affixed. I didn't know about de-canning it What are the options?
Mike

 

[RedCowboy]

You can use a small screwdriver and pop the GBall can off, then use any of the regular M9x0.5 barreled lenses, however as tiny particulates in the air burn onto the facet, the protective coating is damaged allowing moisture from the air to get in and cause fractures, so your MTTF will be considerably less than normal.

Barnnette sells an adapter so you can use a backward G2 after your intact Gball and then a normal lens, I have had some success with this method when the GBall was fairly well collimated, but otherwise the overspray/aberrations were too much.

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[Hemlock_Mike]

You can use a small screwdriver and pop the GBall can off, then use any of the regular M9x0.5 barreled lenses, however as tiny particulates in the air burn onto the facet, the protective coating is damaged allowing moisture from the air to get in and cause fractures, so your MTTF will be considerably less than normal.

Barnnette sells an adapter so you can use a backward G2 after your intact Gball and then a normal lens, I have had some success with this method when the GBall was fairly well collimated, but otherwise the overspray/aberrations were too much.

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Thanks for your help. I ordered one rather than try to build one !!! I may try removing the ball holder but I'll try the adapter first.

 

[RedCowboy]

You can also request your favorite diode be re-capped or chose another that has already been re-capped.

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