Power Switch Recommendations for my Genesis Project.

[RB astro]

Any suggestions please for a power switch for my up and coming Genesis Project Build.
My Host (shown below) doesn't have a power switch because I took it out to fit the 3 sliders.
I want to fit it as a side clicky, probably put it in the 3D Printed cylinder section of the host.

I was looking for something cool for a pushbutton on/off switch, needs to be illuminated and as small as possible with a shallow depth, not momentary, I need it to be a toggle on/off pushbutton.
I was thinking something along the lines of this but maybe in white LED:

The host below:

Can you guys think of anything cool and unusual for a switch?
Perhaps even something that's magnetically pulsed like the original host switch?

Would love to hear some suggestions and possibly please provide links and pics.

Cheers
RB

:thanks:

 

[Benm]

One thing would be to avoid the switch actually handling the full current.

You could use a nice switch with some led built in and all, or just a 5 cent clicky thing, but have the actual switching job done by a mosfet. In a project this size you will probably have space on your driver board to do a solution like that.

Benefits are also that you could use a magnetic switch using a hall sensor, or some 'code switch' that requires tapping in a pattern before the laser activates. This could be placed either at the tail end, the side, or the front depending on your preference.

Using modern microcontrollers and their sleep modes allow you do to keep them connected to the batteries for a very long time. Deep sleep current on these things is in the order of 10 uA, taking them decades to drain a usual 18650 cell in theory.

 

[RB astro]

One thing would be to avoid the switch actually handling the full current.
.....
Using modern microcontrollers and their sleep modes allow you do to keep them connected to the batteries for a very long time. Deep sleep current on these things is in the order of 10 uA, taking them decades to drain a usual 18650 cell in theory.

Thanks Ben.
Yes I thought about all those options.
I didn't know about avoiding handling the full current through the switch though...hmmm

So do you have any links you can point me to, perhaps some pre-made PCBs on ebay?

Cheers
RB

 

[ArcticDude]

Latching switches are usually longer than momentary. But you can always use Momentary to latching converter

Momentary to latching converter 2.2 to 16V

Also, I recommend StealthVape for low profile switches

StealthVape Switches

:beer:

 

[Alaskan]

The current won't be so much for your project, not single mode laser diodes, even if six of them.

 

[RB astro]

Latching switches are usually longer than momentary. But you can always use Momentary to latching converter

Momentary to latching converter 2.2 to 16V

Also, I recommend StealthVape for low profile switches

StealthVape Switches

:beer:

Excellent, thank you AD !!
Very handy to have those latching circuits !
And the low profile StelthVape switches look great, they make a great comb.

The current won't be so much for your project, not single mode laser diodes, even if six of them.

Chris you're absolutely right, there's not a huge amount being drawn.

Well guess what guys, I had a little brainwave.
I put the original magnetic switch back in and I also put the flashlight driver board back in and tested the voltage output.
It worked !
I can switch the power on/off via the original magnetic switch and it outputs 12.6v.
I thought the driver board of the flashlight was a current source, driving the LED.
I assumed the LED was being current driven and that the driver reduced the voltage down around 3v to 5v approx.
But my meter reads the full 3 x 4.2v (26650) = 12.6v

Soooo, I'm thinking I can still use the original concept of the magnetic switch and still fit the 3 sliders in there somewhere too.

What do you think?