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moh17

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Oct 13, 2014
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Hello, everyone. I'm creating laser engraver project. I will use 1 watt 445 laser. the laser came with the driver. I will control the ON/OFF of laser with a relay switch that basically turns the laser on and off according to the gcode. I will receive the diode by Wednesday. I want to know the goggles I have will protect me from the laser or not and which filter should I use with this laser.

Here is a link for the goggles I have right now
Laser Safety Googles Glasses Copper Steampunk Style 405 445 532 650nm US | eBay

Thanks,
 
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10 dollars more and you can get an eagle pair, which are great safety glasses and available for specific wavelength ranges.

Survival Laser sell legitimate eagle pair glasses, for 445 you want the orange ones which are good from 190 to 540nm and will actually block all of the light.

I wouldn't trust my vision with anything less than an eagle pair.

Man I should be a salesman...
 
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Thanks, I will test the goggles when the laser arrives. The laser will be mounted to a CNC machine. It is not a pointer so having exposure is not possible only the beam reflected from the wood. so, I guess I can test the goggles and see if they provide good protection or not. I mean by testing it only to see if I feel comfortable with it while the laser is cutting or engraving the wood. If it's not good I will put your suggestion in my mind.
Thanks again,
 
.
PM coming
I did not read all here- BUT I think you need a driver with TTL blanking- not good to turn laser on and off too often or too quickly- the TTL does that in a way thats not harmful to your diode.
 
Thanks,
I guess there will be no problem. the diode is 2 W but I will only use 1 w so there is a safety factor for the diode Also, I have a 150 mw for around 2 months and its working great. I only replaced it because its too slow

what is the different between a TTL driver and to control it by a relay also, what if I attached the relay between the laser and the driver so the driver will always be turned on however; the diode will be switched ON and OFF
 
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moh17 said:
what is the different between a TTL driver and to control it by a relay
Click to expand...

TTL uses electronic control in the driver
itself to set the current below threshold.
The driver is put into a sort of standby
mode instead of being completely turned
off, as in the case of a relay. Depending
on the driver, switching on and off rapidly
may cause a current spike that will zombify
or LED your diode.

moh17 said:
also, what if I attached the relay between the laser and the driver so the driver will always be turned on however; the diode will be switched ON and OFF
Click to expand...

No, absolutely not. :tsk: That is guaranteed
to kill the diode.
 
gotta give a +6 for the above post- I have been saying that about rapid off/on of the power for a long time and knew that was solid advice but only unitl now do i know why-- +6 for
The Lightning Stalker
 
well if killing a $40 green pointer in one night of play with NO regaurd for any duty cycle counts then yes GUILTY- it was when they were new and ATM I thought that red pointers needed no rest and ass-u-med the same for greens.

More to the OP

with a cutter you will be looking a lot at the laser so get OD5 or more within the range of 445-itsone the rims of the glasses and may read like this; OD5 400 to 500nm etc
most cover more than one wavelenght BUT those that are good for all visible lasers are spendy--

we need a link to your driver- on it I bet there are places to wire a TTL blanker- all those from AixiZ Laser (houston) have ttl.

cant make a cutter w/o blanking--

there is also a big forum for these too-

-(one)
LPF cutter expert is member 'Things' (Oz)
also Mariomaster he makes his own 3D modlers- he had it working at SELEM 2014 damn cool machine..

hak
 
hakzaw1 said:
well if killing a $40 green pointer in one night of play with NO regaurd for any duty cycle counts then yes GUILTY- it was when they were new and ATM I thought that red pointers needed no rest and ass-u-med the same for greens.

More to the OP

with a cutter you will be looking a lot at the laser so get OD5 or more within the range of 445-itsone the rims of the glasses and may read like this; OD5 400 to 500nm etc
most cover more than one wavelenght BUT those that are good for all visible lasers are spendy--

we need a link to your driver- on it I bet there are places to wire a TTL blanker- all those from AixiZ Laser (houston) have ttl.

cant make a cutter w/o blanking--

there is also a big forum for these too-

-(one)
LPF cutter expert is member 'Things' (Oz)
also Mariomaster he makes his own 3D modlers- he had it working at SELEM 2014 damn cool machine..

hak
Click to expand...

I created the driver and saved some money I added mosfet, resistor and 0.1 uf capacitor for the TTL and the diode is working perfectly also, the goggles I have worked pretty well. I knew it was a risk to try uncertified goggles but I'm comfortable with it and it blocks most of brightness of the laser. I used proteus software to create and simulate the PCB and I used ferric iron chloride , glow paper, laser printer , and a copper PCB. The total cost of the pcb was $ 10 after shipping the components and I bought all the electronic components from mouser, also, its important not to use the laser diode at its max power especially if you do not use cooling fan. I will add all the proteus files after finishing my mid term exams this week.
 
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A simple resistor as current limiting is
fine. Just make sure the voltage input is
very stable and use a carbon resistor (not
wirewound).
 
very cool-- wE would love to see some pics--

I can tell now i wont be of much help to you-- you DIY spirit is strong--

best wished Hak
 
hakzaw1 said:
very cool-- wE would love to see some pics--

I can tell now i wont be of much help to you-- you DIY spirit is strong--

best wished Hak
Click to expand...

Thanks, I will add photos and videos this week. I'm waiting for eagle pro goggle and I should receive it next monday. I found that the driver is very stable and accepts TTL, however; there is no separate TTL pin. I created TTL circuit. Simply, a mosfet, 22uf capacitor, and 10 ohm resistor , with this circuit I controlled the driver on and off with constant current. I found that TTL drivers are not stable and kills the diode easily especially the chinese one. My first 150 mw laser module damaged from a TTL driver, thats why I do not recommend TTL drivers. The non TTL driver I used today is much better and stable than the TTL driver I have.
 
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Not sure I agree with all that-- IIRC all AixiZ drivers have TTL and n/ps.

how about adding your location in your profile PLEASE. it does make a diff.

hak
 
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