Kipkay Star Trek Phaser Help?

I want to make a Kipkay Star Trek phaser but with a LPC-826 diode instead from here LPC-826 laser diode 650-660nm 250-300mW [M0023] - $12.99 : Modwerx Shop How different is it? As far as resistors/drivers go, he used a 150 ohm resistor and not a driver with a 9v. I want to use a 9v like him for size reasons, but can I just use resistors(s) too? Also, how much is shipping on the diode?

Never follow a KipKay guide. It's a surefire way of something breaking because it's just thrown together.

Anyway, the phaser idea originated here. It is NOT originally KipKay's.

Here is the original, done by jayrob. http://laserpointerforums.com/f51/tutorial-12x-star-trek-phaser-mod-46886.html

Further, ALWAYS use a driver until you know what you are doing, and I can assure you, you do not (from the questions you ask). May I suggest you look at building your own driver known as the DDL circuit? See here: Laser driver - It can be done

I didn't mean to sound harsh, but KipKay is resented around here for lack of etiquette, safety precautions, and lack of sound electrical engineering. Instead of watching his videos, check out some of the tutorials here. They are *much* better.

Yes I'm new at this and thanks for the help. Also thanks for the tutorial but since I want to use an LPC-826 diode would anything change? Also, I have seen that driver tutorial before. Can I get it to fit in an AiXiZ or should I just buy a Flex Drive or something? Is it possible to use alkaline batteries like a 9v? I just want to save a little money. Thanks!

Easy. Glad you didn't take offense at my comment. Because of that, I will continue to help ya!

So, regarding your first question:
Yes, some things would change. Your diode has a lower forward voltage (my guess is around 3V?). Further, even though the diode current is the same, you won't be able to use exactly the same driver because of the voltage requirements (I believe LPC-826's can sustain around 500mA?).

Regarding fitting the LM317 driver into an Aixiz module... may I recommend just saying, "Screw it" to the Aixiz back end, stick the diode in the front end, and then just build the circuit in the large cavity that is the inside of the phaser? You have a lot more room for heatsinking and driver space that way, and that's how most of us do it (most of us have tons of back ends from those Aixiz modules ).

Buying a FlexDrive, while always an option, isn't worth it, in my opinion. They are expensive, whereas you can A) buy a cheapo LED driver and modify it to fit your needs from websites like DealExtreme and DinoDirect, or B) make your own LM1117 (a lower-dropout, smaller version of the LM317) driver and use that (which is the option I recommend).

Finally, alkaline batteries essentially suck. They can't provide much current (ESPECIALLY 9Vs), aren't rechargeable, and don't last long. They are about the worst type of battery in this hobby.

Therefore, I would suggest investing in some good quality rechargeable Li-ion batteries. They have a much higher nominal voltage (3.7V as opposed to 1.5V of a normal alkaline cell), can provide a TON of current, and are rechargeable (of course!). They come in various sizes, but some of the most common are the 10440 (AAA size), 14500 (AA size), 16340 (CR123A, camera battery size), and the powerful 18650, the batteries that power your laptop.

I understand that you want to save money, but in general, that's not going to happen with this hobby! It's expensive, so if you aren't willing to spend a bit (or figure out ways to mod things that are cheap to get expensive quality stuff), then this isn't the hobby for you!

Wolfman29 said:

I understand that you want to save money, but in general, that's not going to happen with this hobby! It's expensive, so if you aren't willing to spend a bit (or figure out ways to mod things that are cheap to get expensive quality stuff), then this isn't the hobby for you!

Click to expand...

To quote a movie that I bet is from a time before quite a few members were born: "the only winning move is not to play."

So as far as batteries would this be good? Amazon.com: UltraFire 14500 1000mAh 3.6V Rechargeable Li-Ion Battery (Pair) + Charger Combo: Camera & Photo In regards to fitting, can the phaser use li-ion batteries in its current slot?

Here http://laserpointerforums.com/f50/lpc-826-graphs-63867.html are graphs on the LPC-826. It looks like it can sustain 600 mA at about 350mw. It also has voltage information. Should I use this info here when making a driver? I might also want less power but I can limit that with modifications, right?

"the only winning move is not to play."

Click to expand...

^^^^War games. nice one.
"I wouldn't trust this overgrown pile of microchips any further than I can throw it"

Wolfman kinda said it all already. Let me just sum it up:
1. Don't follow kipkays example
2. don't use 9V batteries, really. Rip up old damaged laptop packs for still useable 18650s.
3. use a proper driver not just a resistor.

While you can easily spend hundreds even thousands of dollars on this hobby, you can
have a lot of fun for under 100$, too. It's a matter of how much you do yourself.

@Gamemasher: Yes, yes, and yes. All those are good ideas!

@anselm: Yep. You're famous around here for that under $60 labby

Would I use just one li-ion battery in the phaser at a time? As far as the driver, would someone be able to help me and verify if I am correct after I do the math and everything? I don't want to mess up and kill the LD.

Gamemasher said:

Would I use just one li-ion battery in the phaser at a time? As far as the driver, would someone be able to help me and verify if I am correct after I do the math and everything? I don't want to mess up and kill the LD.

Click to expand...

Use Post #4 as a guide.....

Jerry

You will need to go with two li-ions at a time for the voltage necessary for that diode.

Regarding the driver - sure, I can do that for you. When you are done with it, just take some pictures, do some describing, tell me your method and I can verify if you have done it correctly.

Wolfman29 said:

Never follow a KipKay guide. It's a surefire way of something breaking because it's just thrown together.

Anyway, the phaser idea originated here. It is NOT originally KipKay's.

Here is the original, done by jayrob. http://laserpointerforums.com/f51/tutorial-12x-star-trek-phaser-mod-46886.html

Further, ALWAYS use a driver until you know what you are doing, and I can assure you, you do not (from the questions you ask). May I suggest you look at building your own driver known as the DDL circuit? See here: Laser driver - It can be done

I didn't mean to sound harsh, but KipKay is resented around here for lack of etiquette, safety precautions, and lack of sound electrical engineering. Instead of watching his videos, check out some of the tutorials here. They are *much* better.

Click to expand...

Actually KipKay did do it first...

But he did it wrong! :crackup:

I used the same model phaser, but our builds do not really compare. He by-passed the sound board, didn't use a driver, no heatsink, probably less than 50mW's, won't last, and last but not least, a crappy battery set up!

For shame! But you didn't get the idea from him, did you?! I thought it was you first. Meh. It doesn't matter. Your build is better anyway.