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ArcticMyst Security by Avery

400mW spartan b4 and after pot mod

Gryphon

Gryphon

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^ based on what i have seen its probably the focal length of the collimating lense, and how close or
far said lense is placed from the LD. Diode current is probably different between the two aswell.
 





kcorbhv

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does that mean diifferent bits and pieces on the driver and or the pot setting?
 
Morgan

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^ I actually wouldn't have thought any differences there as the diode output could likely be the same if they've got two lens configurations but it leads me to think you may be risking your diode more than I thought initially. More evidence to make me think this is looking back at those figures on the module - maybe it means that 900mA = 450mW when used in this configuration? Nice beam; sacrificed power. This is just speculation but I have to say it would be a neat solution to the beam spec thing. If I read correctly that the price difference was minimal, that could point to two lasers tailored to two different markets by simply changing the lens. Only comparing both side-by-side would tell for sure though.

Have you posted a shot of the focused dot at a fair distance? That would be nice to see considering we now know what's between the diode and the dot.

The pic without a lens seems to show much clipping and the bore would not need to be that long without a long focal length lens.

M
:)
 
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Benm

Benm

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It also depends on your application. If you want a collimated beam to infinity, the lens will be relatively far from the diode. When you turn in closer to do burning, that problem could very well be overcome.

Also, the output pattern of most diodes resembles gaussian, and there is in fact very little power in the outer edges of the diode pattern. Getting special lenses might be worthwhile if you want to squeeze every last mW of power from a diode, but it doesnt make that much of a difference in real world use.
 
kcorbhv

kcorbhv

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ok so i finally found a lens that performs its totally unscratched :) and taken out of the guts of a camera lens. the beam diameter looks to be a little thinner than the original and the dot is just as crisp and round as original too. i harvested half a dozen real good unmarked lens' from two camera lens' just got lucky one was perfect size and to focus just right woohoo

i scratched the original lens .

spartanlenssideview.jpg


spartanlensfrontview.jpg
 
kcorbhv

kcorbhv

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to unscrew the endcap get a few rubber bands (elastic bands)and wrap them around tip of the laser(the top about 1cm) so you can get a good grip and open it like a bottle. :)
 
F

FenixDelta753

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You're talking about the section just above the anti roll things right? I think I was trying to take off the very tip.
 
kcorbhv

kcorbhv

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theres no point even taking that ring off unless your just curious and want to have a look inside.
 
jedirock

jedirock

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I posted some pictures and a disassembly procedure in my review of the Spartan 400mW. I just used a pair of needle nosed pliers to turn it, but you should make sure you get some with a really small tip, and make sure you push hard. It's in there very tight, and you will scratch stuff up otherwise (speaking from experience now).

Also, I knocked off the collimating lens on my Spartan while disassembling it too, but mine doesn't seem to be scratched. Is there anything I can use to reattach it to the original ring?
 
Uranium

Uranium

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If you don't plan on taking it back off, JB weld will do. (i'm serious)
 
Spartan X

Spartan X

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If DL is using the same Diodes found in the Casio projectors, his pot modding should be quite alright. We already know these Diodes can be pushed to 1.5A without breaking a sweat, your just looking at a shorter duty cycle if you run it hot.
 
JLSE

JLSE

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kcorbhv said:
spartandiodelens.jpg
Click to expand...

Anybody measure the divergence with that lens???

That looks like a really low NA lens used after and expander in a 532,
but below it is the bare LD?

Careful how much power you set that too, that arrangement can spell
trouble at higher outputs. To me that looks like glass but uncoated and
sits far from the LD.

If you can thread in an aixiz glass, make the switch, you will be much
happier with it. Not sure if it will fit, but you can try to size it with an aixiz
acrylic if you dont have glass on hand (same size).

By the looks of it, the aixiz will be too small, you could modify the original mount
the mount the aixiz in that.
 
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