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FrozenGate by Avery

Yellow HeNe 594nm on Ebay

I'm guessing the PSU it came with originally was a mains voltage supply. Off the top of my head that tube should use like 2750VDC @ 6.5mA.

Yup about the same as a green HeNe. I have never seen a head labeled like this before it's just odd.
 





nah it'd be more like 2600V @ 5.5mA. but still indeed its probably just a listing for the original power supply input.
 
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Update. I finally found just like it for $150 with a 2200volt 6Ma power supply. It seems to run fine with that volt/current. I ran it for about an hour without any issues. Both the head and PS were about the same temperature as all my other gas lasers. Maybe a little hotter.
What a beautiful color!!!
 
Yeah it should run fine there while still new...but might be a bit stressful on the supply in the long run.
 
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Yeah it should run fine there while still new...but might be a bit stressful on the supply in the long run.

I can always get another power supply:D My main concern is the head but, it fires right up and doesn't feel too hot. I will get a temp next time I run it for awhile.
 
I can always get another power supply:D My main concern is the head but, it fires right up and doesn't feel too hot. I will get a temp next time I run it for awhile.

yeah, though some of those supplies can do more/somewhat less than what they're labelled safely. if it runs, it runs. just might be a bit hard on the regulator. many have a pot to adjust the current on them too, though I'd recommend just leaving it alone. ~0.5mA won't make a huge difference in power, but it will definitely be a bit off from nominal, and will likely help compensate if you're out of bounds voltage-wise by a tad. I do recommend keeping those bricks fused though. a couple amp slow blow fuse does the trick. if it decides to fail, I've seen a few make a nasty boom.
 
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yeah, though some of those supplies can do more/somewhat less than what they're labelled safely. if it runs, it runs. just might be a bit hard on the regulator. many have a pot to adjust the current on them too, though i'd reccommend just leaving it alone. ~0.5mA won't make a huge difference in power, but it will definitely be a bit lower than nominal, and will likely help compensate if you're out of bounds voltage-wise by a tad. I do reccommend keeping those bricks fused though. a couple amp slow blow fuse does the trick. if it decides to fail, I've seen a few make a nasty boom.

They go boom:eek: I forgot about that. I will definitely add an inline fuse on the input side of the brick. I have seen the adjustable ones on eekbay maybe I will pick one up with a more appropriate output voltage.
Thanks for the reminder.
 
Yeah, it's rare, but not unheard of. those REO tubes are happiest in that 5.5mA range. I run mine generally 5.5-6mA, my stabilized REO one runs at 5mA, but I've always felt that their tubes are a bit on the low side...it's probably to try to prolong the life, and possibly cut down on noise.
 


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