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Xerex broken

S

sarbanes

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So I'm stuck with a non-working Xerex 593.5nm.  Symptoms are, instead of the golden, sodium like dot, just a small amount (perhaps 1/18th of a mw) of what actually appears to be 532.  It has worked, and I did read about temperature being a factor, but accounting for temperature and potential variables, I have not found a way to get it working when its dead.  Its a crap shoot.  How come it only works on rare occasion so far (especially since I am controlling variables, somewhat (fresh batteries & a number of temperature ranges)?  What is the rhyme and reason?  I know the basic theory, but not sure how to adjust my variables without taking the thing apart.  For the amount of money this cost, I'd just prefer a FULL refund, but that is not in the cards as of yet;

I even tried cooling it down with some 'canned air' evaporation, and trying to power up at different core temperatures.  Also tried gently heating for a few seconds with blow dryer.  Without being able to directly see some wavelengths output power (to know whether I am within fringe threshold), and without being able to phase manipulate the xtals, I am at a loss.  Is there some sort of interference going on?  Tnx in advance.

(maybe the Xerex is just 'lazy' ;D :(
 





Yellow lasers aren't very stable so that's why your getting a green dot. Sawt's Yellow did this when he used bad batteries, try using a pair of brand new alkaline energizers, if the batteries you are using are rechargeable or off-brand, that might be your problem.
 
styropyro said:
Yellow lasers aren't very stable so that's why your getting a green dot. Sawt's Yellow did this when he used bad batteries, try using a pair of brand new alkaline energizers, if the batteries you are using are rechargeable or off-brand, that might be your problem.
Click to expand...

Styro,

Deffinately 'preeciate the suggestion. Had already taken the liberty of using one dead (or almost), otherwise 1.2v NiMH AAA slug, and a 4.2V LiIon AAA battery (as the standard 1.2's got eaten so quickly). Wish it was that simple.
 
It sounds like you got a piece of crap and should get a full refund or at least a replacement. Nothing else to add :( This is why anyone who wants an uncommon color like blue or yellow should get it from a trustworthy company like laserglow or optotronics.

My yellow laser is a bit unstable and goes from 2-7mw, but it does work like it should.
 
sarbanes said:
[quote author=styropyro link=1212621105/0#3 date=1212623175]Yellow lasers aren't very stable so that's why your getting a green dot. Sawt's Yellow did this when he used bad batteries, try using a pair of brand new alkaline energizers, if the batteries you are using are rechargeable or off-brand, that might be your problem.
Click to expand...

Styro,

Deffinately 'preeciate the suggestion.  Had already taken the liberty of using one dead (or almost), otherwise 1.2v NiMH AAA slug, and a 4.2V LiIon AAA battery (as the standard 1.2's got eaten so quickly).  Wish it was that simple.
[/quote]

I believe that falls under the "not such a bright idea" category.Try 2 good alkalines like styro suggested. :-/
 
Sawt al Hurriyah,

I'm beginning to wonder weather small fluctuations in  humidity could influence things here.  The only reason I wonder, is I (partially) feel, I have somewhat accounted for the other, more obvious variables.  Something causing an enhanced performance of the 808 diode is where I'm heading now. Did try rapidly triggering on and off for a minute or so - no luck :(.
 
heruursciences said:
Sounds like a mis aligned OPO cavity OR more likely a fried pump diode  :'(
Click to expand...

Tnx 4oh the reply. As to the more *likely* scenario, I didn't know it was possible for a diode (pump) to go from fried state, to working again?!? So alignment is then changing slightly, between the (apparent) working states of the unit, and the non working states? Its just weird.
 
Still just the pale (1/20th mW) 532. Doesn't make much sense, as it has operated easily within the temperature ranges it is now failing. Does anyone have any more practicle clues? Tried triggering it rapidly over a minute or so, and that did nothing. Don't think the pump could be gone, as I see light, and there is only one diode (plus the head heats up). My intuition tells me that if the green output dropped a bit, i'd start to see orange. Just don't quite understand what keeps this not working for a week at a time. I suppose it couldn't be permanently broken, or I wouldn't even see the 532? What factors favor lasing @ 593.5? As I understand it, somthing in the laser is "too strong", so the orange DPSS process is prevented from forming? Almost sounds like a chemical reaction (and a catalyst) to me. Could ramping up the power gradually act as a catalyst? I don't think using the one 4.2v battery (and a dead slug) would burn out anything_at least I hope not!
 
The dummy load + 4.2v cell would act no different than two fresh alkalines in your laser because of the way that laser is regulated, so the 4.2v cell won't make it work again. As for why it is acting like this, I don't have a clue :( The DPSS yellow process is just too unstable.
 
Sawt al Hurriyah said:
Okay, I have come to a conclusion about this, it seems to be related to humidity and to some degree temperature. A few days ago it was very humid and hot around here, as in 35 C and over 45 C with humidex, and my 5mW yellow was working great, average around 3mw, peak ~8mw, and not a sign of green. Today it got so hot that we turned to air conditioning on in my house, its now like 25 C and bone dry, and what do you know, my yellow won't even lase at 593.5 nm, just that crap green glow. Moral of the story, these are great if you live in the jungle, but if you live in Antarctica, don't even think about it. ;)
Click to expand...

O_o

I guess a 593.5nm laser would work nice in Florida.. *Starts dreaming*
 
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