Wicked Lasers Rebuild

[Alien Laser]

Ah if you are a veteran on this page many remember i purchased a wicked laser i believe was around $40+ so after so many years i made a decision to replace the diode its very simple nothing to press in just place and screw the head on i also added a tiny bit Thermal Compound see images diode used is a M140 M-Type
i have other wicked laser and i just compared the beam and the M140 M-Type is more blue interesting i will post beam pic's soon the batteries i have are no good UltraFire hehe
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[Photophile]

Were you able to take the host down any further? My smart switch is intermittently going out, and I see a repair in my future.

 

[Alien Laser]

The smart switch pulls right out if you pull on the wires

 

[Photophile]

Have you seen anyone on here that has done a tear down of a WL with pics and instructions yet? If so, a link would be greatly appreciated.

I have been cautious of disassembling my Spyder III Arctic. The top barrel on my device is slightly loose like it would unscrew, but feels like a set screw or something is still slightly engaged still. Mine is the 1W 2011 model.

 

[Dusty_Lenses]

Have you seen anyone on here that has done a tear down of a WL with pics and instructions yet? If so, a link would be greatly appreciated.

I have been cautious of disassembling my Spyder III Arctic. The top barrel on my device is slightly loose like it would unscrew, but feels like a set screw or something is still slightly engaged still. Mine is the 1W 2011 model.

Im tearing one down now looking to upgrade with a nubm44. The construction seems to be all press fit and epoxy. The front end heatsink is glued over the main tube, havent figured out the switch or the batt indicator yet but may just leave them, not sure.

 

[Dusty_Lenses]

The smart switch pulls right out if you pull on the wires

This doesn't make sense, if that were the case wouldn't the button just fall through when you press it?

 

[Alien Laser]

I mix up the smart switch & the driver if you pull on the wires the driver will come out the switch and the led's i can't see,
everything unscrews the is no proxy i just checked all mine wicked lasers none have proxy unless Wicked Laser did add proxy to some

 

[Dusty_Lenses]

I mix up the smart switch & the driver if you pull on the wires the driver will come out the switch and the led's i can't see, everything unscrews the is no proxy

Thats a mixup that can be costly.

So to get to the switch and the LED indicator lights, #1 in the pic is epoxied on and slides off the main tube, then
#2 is epoxied and clamps the switch in place which also has to be slid off (be carful of the LEDS and switch). #3 is
the base of the main tube with the threads for the tail cap. #3 is tightly press fit into the main tube (no need to remove)

Same process for the Krypton, the difference is #1 is twice as long, and more epoxy

 

[Alien Laser]

I just remember danielnel posted something

danielnel

laserpointerforums.com

 

[Photophile]

Thats a mixup that can be costly.

So to get to the switch and the LED indicator lights, #1 in the pic is epoxied on and slides off the main tube, then
#2 is epoxied and clamps the switch in place which also has to be slid off (be carful of the LEDS and switch). #3 is
the base of the main tube with the threads for the tail cap. #3 is tightly press fit into the main tube (no need to remove)

Same process for the Krypton, the difference is #1 is twice as long, and more epoxy

Any tips on the removal procedure?

With all the epoxy, I’ll most likely wait until the switch completely goes out. That will more than likely be soon since I have to cycle the smart switch to enter the combination every time that I need to use it for a few seconds.

 

[Dusty_Lenses]

Any tips on the removal procedure?

With all the epoxy, I’ll most likely wait until the switch completely goes out. That will more than likely be soon since I have to cycle the smart switch to enter the combination every time that I need to use it for a few seconds.

Depends how much epoxy was used in the first place. You have to unscrew the module in the front where the diode sits so that you just have an empty tube with leads from the driver, then heat and start working at it. Warm it up with a hairdryer to soften but nut burn up anything. From there its a battle of wits

 

[Photophile]

Depends how much epoxy was used in the first place. You have to unscrew the module in the front where the diode sits so that you just have an empty tube with leads from the driver, then heat and start working at it. Warm it up with a hairdryer to soften but nut burn up anything. From there its a battle of wits

Thanks, I feel a little more confident about digging into it now that I know what to expect.

 

[Dusty_Lenses]

Thanks, I feel a little more confident about digging into it now that I know what to expect.

No problem.. best of luck with it.

 

[wolfram]

Daguin used to mod out Arctics with almost full host heatsinks.

 

[Dusty_Lenses]

Pardon me whilst I run with your typo

 

[wolfram]

HMMMM.........OK, your dirty little secret is safe with me.