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FrozenGate by Avery

Which of you have adjusted the potintiometer on the Dilda?

Emc2

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Oct 16, 2007
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I noticed that the laser comes completely apart and so many of you have posted the use of 3.6v batteries to get more power. But what of the potintiometer? Does it help or will it kill the laser by lowering the life of the diode? I ask because I am afraid to touch it and introduce more current to the laser. Who among you have done this?

-Todd
 





I have done it. but...and a big BUT, just a slight turn. I do not have an LPM so the just to satisfy my morbid curiosity i turned it a smidgeon. and I use the 3.6v batts. my beam is pretty noticable at night. if you wanna see something cool point your dilda and your green straight up on a dark night and you notice that the red goes higher up in the sky.
 
We suspect the dilda driver is not even regulating on 6V (2* 3V CR2), by putting 7.2V we ofc put more current on the diode, although we don't know how much because maybe at 7.2V the driver start regulating.

So yes, adjusting the pot MIGHT be a good idea but since we all have tested it goes perfect on 3.6V i suggest you to do this and forget about the pot :D
 
Well.. it has been tried and ended with a dilda which could now only be used for what the name suggests.
Putting 3.6V CR2s (which recharge to 4.2V) in however has not yet killed any of mine! They are still running very strong indeed. Just stick with that method, getting overspec readings out of a "200mW" for about $41 is already bloody amazing!
 
I haven't touched the pot on my Dilda. Fresh 3.6V CR2's yield a power output of ~250mW. There's no need to even touch the pot.
 
I haven't touched the pot on my Dilda. Fresh 3.6V CR2's yield a power output of ~250mW. There's no need to even touch the pot.

Ok Agrred. I just got my second one from O-Like and installed a lsens in it from LarryDFW. It is sweet.
 





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