Welcome to Laser Pointer Forums - discuss green laser pointers, blue laser pointers, and all types of lasers

LPF Donation via Stripe | LPF Donation - Other Methods

Links below open in new window

ArcticMyst Security by Avery

What does this Laser Module require to power up?






Joined
Sep 12, 2007
Messages
9,399
Points
113
Tested it with what? Please tell us your testing method has improved from AAs.
 
Joined
Aug 16, 2013
Messages
39
Points
0
Basically i have a build.. 3.7v Battery 18650,
I used this laser module in my build..
Basically Connected the 2 wires + and - to the driver which was connected with the battery and switch.
 
Joined
Sep 12, 2007
Messages
9,399
Points
113
Which driver? Which brand of cell? Was the cell properly charged? Is your polarity correct? Is your switch of adequate current rating? How was the diode heat sinked? Picture.
 
Joined
Aug 14, 2013
Messages
2,655
Points
63
What kind of driver? It either has to be a boost driver or you're going to need more batteries. For a linear
or buck driver, you'll need at least 8.5v. For an M140 it should really be either a buck or boost driver. For
a handheld, a boost for sure. Otherwise you're going to need 3 of those 18650s in series.
 
Joined
Jul 16, 2013
Messages
702
Points
0
I can bet you didn't have goggles either. Not to be a dick but you seriously are stupid. I've seen you post on the forums and you have got to have at least seen someone talk about drivers. Why would you even buy that powerful of a laser as a first? I'm going to stop myself before I grouch anymore about safety and drivers.
 
Joined
Aug 16, 2013
Messages
39
Points
0
Last edited:
Joined
Aug 16, 2013
Messages
39
Points
0
i'm just used to testing lasers with double AA batteries, could someone at least show me a setup of how to power this?
 
Joined
Aug 14, 2013
Messages
2,655
Points
63
I cannot attest to the fitness of that DX LED driver board for driving laser diodes. While yes you are
underdriving it, most LED drivers are unsuitable for driving LDs. They will produce peaks which will kill an
LD. That driver is rated at 3.7v and is a boost driver, so I'm afraid you've probably already killed your diode.
Unless you have some way of actually testing the voltage and current entering the driver, diode, and your
battery is fully charged, chalk it up as a learning experience.
 
Joined
Aug 16, 2013
Messages
39
Points
0
mmmm okay, well i've learnt something at least, but i'm planning on buying another one and this time just connecting it up to the driver without testing with 2 AA batteries, so would that just work it fine?
 

Zeebit

0
Joined
Aug 27, 2012
Messages
1,110
Points
0
FFS dont triple post. Click "edit post" if you need do add something to your post.
 
Joined
May 12, 2013
Messages
751
Points
43
I was actually wearing goggles during this process btw.. and was aiming it at a black cardboard incase it would of reflected.. i know the safety already but don't know much about how voltage, i'm using this driver: http://img.dxcdn.com/productimages/sku_26110_1.jpg (18V 5W Cree Circuit Board for Flashlights ) or maybe this would be the driver i need? - (Adjustable 2W 445nm/445nm blue laser driver circuit/ 2A/Round [OL-445-2AD] - $14.99 : Zen Cart!, The Art of E-commerce)
(Was using Red Safety Goggles btw)

The first driver will work with this laser although you will need to power it with at least 7.4 volts, i.e two lithium ion batteries. But as 'the lightning stalker' said it is designed for LED's and can produce spikes in the output current that can kill the laser diode. The second driver is a boost driver, which means it would only require a 3.7-4.2 volt input, i.e one lithium ion battery.

The o-like driver would be a better option because it is specifically designed for laser diodes. But you would need to hook it up to a test load and adjust the current to the desired setting. But judging from your actions and your posts I don't think you even know what a test load is. Please do some more research. It will save you a lot of time and money if you know what you are doing to begin with.
 
Last edited:
Joined
Aug 14, 2013
Messages
2,655
Points
63
Yeah, I thought it was a boost driver, but it is indeed a buck. You're going to need at least 2 more of those 18650s to get full output. That could be the problem.
 
Joined
Aug 16, 2013
Messages
39
Points
0
Okay well i decided to test this again WITH a new battery and now it's brighter? it could burn tape as well? does that still means it's fried?
 




Top