Using sled leads instead of direct to diode?

[Thorsteenster]

I was just curious, rather than desoldering the leads from the sled board to the diode, can I just pigtail into the leads? I scraped the cable of the sled baord and came off cleanly. I am no ace solderer, in fact never desoldered anything but thought this would simplify my first project.

Thanks!

 

[strik3]

Are you talking about the ribbon style cable that is connected to the pins? Or the little circuit board that the cable and pins are attached to?

 

[Thorsteenster]

Sorry, yes I mean leaving the ribbon style cable on the pins of the diode and using the corresponding wires in the ribbon for + and - to power the diode. The diode and ribbon are intact but removed from the sleds board.

 

[rhd]

I've often thought about this same question. The reason I don't think your approach is a safe one -

You're going to need to press that diode into an aixiz module. Well, the ribbon cables are rarely, if ever, soldered right up snug against the diode's case/base. So unless you've managed to trim the cables REALLY close to the leads, and potentially even if you have, when you press your diode, the diode press will catch on the ribbon when you push down. Instead of pressing the diode, you're instead putting pressure on the ribbon cable, which means putting pressure on the leads.

 

[Thorsteenster]

The module I got is an O-Like screw in module. I haven't seen one before and not sure how it's setup. It mentions using thermal grease so I'm guessing the diode drops in and maybe some kind of retaining clip/ring keeps it situated.
http://www.*****************.com/sh...luray-module-w-56mm-glass-lens-for-405nm.html

 

[Thorsteenster]

Doh! Why does it *** URLs?!
If you type in laser surplus parts . com (minus spaces) and add this to the end, that's what I got.
/shop/laser-modules/22-o-like-bluray-module-w-56mm-glass-lens-for-405nm.html

 

[strik3]

It may be possible. But I'm not sure how much current those ribbon cables can take.

 

[Thorsteenster]

Yeah, I had pondered that as well, but being it won't be very high powered, from what I understand around 30mw or so, may not be a problem. And to be on the conservative non-diode killing side I'd under drive it.
If I were doing something higher powered I wouldn't even consider it, but for ease and less chance of cooking the diode......

 

[123splat]

1) you'll find desoldering the ribbon from the diode pins much easier than using it as a base to connect your wires,
2) I love the O-like screw in mounts, but it is a beast finding a host that will hold one, and, the diode leads (with ribbon psd attached) will never fit through the center of the brass nut that secures the diode into the head of the o-like module.

The 'set up' of the O-like is: you unscrew the finned head from the big long base; then you will seea knurled brass nut with a hole in the center in the center of the threaded back of the head; unscrew the brass nut; solder your wires to the diode leads; slide the diode leads through the threaded end of the brass nut (the will end up hanging out the knurled end); fit the diode into the recess in the threaded end of the head, gently seat it as best you can with something like a toothpick; screw in the brass nut until firm (you don't need to use a great deal of force, but you want it in very firmly for better heat transfer); at this point you are ready to hookup your driver circuit (you said you'll stay with low power, so no need to worry much about heatsinks yet). power up, if you have done all correctly you won't smoke your diode. next you can adjust the lense focus( screw it in all the way and turn the laser on, put the blob on a distant surface, note size of blob. turn laser off, unscrew lense two or three turns, turn the laser back on and note change in size. repeate until blob turns into a smaller blob (and hopefully a dot). If (when) the dot starts getting bigger again, repeat proces, but this time screw the lens back in 1/4 turn at a time until the dot doesn't get any smaller. Wow, was that fun, or what?? No, but it IS worth it! Be SAFE , learn, and have fun!

As long as you stay with lower power settings, you shouldn't have any heating problems. BUT, while setting focus and any other use with the head out of a heatsink, keep a close watch on the heating of the head. even with the massive o-like module, you will feel the head (the finned part) getting warm long before you do any damage ( if you have your driver set low to start with). The manufacturer suggest that you use silicone heat transfer paste (heatsink compound) on the diode before you mount it into the o-like. DO NOT, until you have a lot more expeience. If you keep the power low, you don't need it and if you get sloppy with it and it gets on th diode window or into an open diode can, kiss your diode good bye.

 

[lasersbee]

I was just curious, rather than desoldering the leads from the sled board to the diode, can I just pigtail into the leads? I scraped the cable of the sled baord and came off cleanly. I am no ace solderer, in fact never desoldered anything but thought this would simplify my first project.

Thanks!

Soldering to that brown Flex Ribbon cable is a PITA...
It is easier desoldering it from the LD and make a clean
new connection to the LD..... IMO

Jerry

 

[Thorsteenster]

Thanks 123Splat, before buying the O-Like I had been looking all over to try and see how it's assembled.

Now, allow me to derail my own thread. My soldering equipment currently consists of a Weller WPS18MP and a Weller WES51 digital and a rubber de-soldering bulb I picked up yesterday at Radio Shack. I'm fine with heating joints quickly, but leery of the de-soldering bulb, and my lack of experience with de-soldering. I have yet to use my WES51 station, and if anyone could recommend some good tips I should purchase I'd greatly appreciate it. From looking it seems I should get a small chisel and oval tip.
Thanks!

 

[123splat]

Third Hand rigs (those funny looking things with two or three arms with alligator clips on the ends) help a lot. My method is probablly stupid and dangerous for the diode, but has worked well so far. I support the diode (hopefully before removal from the heatsink) and hook a pair of Kelly Forceps (hemostats, sissor looking things with little hooks that keep the things closed) onto the tail of the ribbon pad. Try to hit all three pins at the same time. As soon as I see the solder on the pins go plastic, I pull the pad off and cool the diode. Puttin the wires on is a whole different horse race (grrrrrr...)

 

[CDHDC]

Putting a "blob" of solder on the tip of the iron, then touching it to the pins and pulling works pretty well for me