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FrozenGate by Avery

Tail cap click switch help please

Joined
Sep 7, 2007
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My click switch is no longer clicking and I have no idea why it was fine and then one day BOOM no longer clicks on and off. Does anyone know how to fix these? or install a new one in the tail cap. The host is a kryton groove so the tail assembly unscrews from the host itself. Any ideas? Or if someone can fix this for me located in the US I would of course pay to ship it to and from and pay the person who fixes it. Thanks all.
 





If I had a dollar for how many switches have broken or failed ...
You should always check a units switch before you start a build. I've had many switches show a significant resistance even brand new and have had to try and repair or purchase a new one. I see them in general as a weak point in most builds and this problem will rear it's head much more now that there are so many powerful diodes out.
I do know that Fasttech sells some general replacement switches and probably need to order some myself. Just changed out 2 yesterday trying to figure out why a couple units were a bit down on output.
 
Thanks guys. The eBay link you provided seems like those would work perfect. However, I really hate to wait the shipping time all the way from China. Does anyone have these ones they can sell me? Also how do I take the old one out of the tail assembly? I see a little ring down in there but I do not wanna break anything.
 
I fixed it!!!!! Turns out they aren't that complicated to tear apart. The spring was not out far enough within the assembly.
 
https://www.fasttech.com/category/1610/diy-kits-parts-switches

Someone knows the size, I don't have a kryton, I rebuild with overrated switches sometimes or jury rig a bigger switch.
One of my 07E kept burning up these cheap switches, they used to be better, but the makers in China kept making them cheaper, the old ones work, the newer ones burn up in 20 seconds. So I jury rig a bigger switch, I need to paint it.
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But if you don't have a NUBM diode in your kryton then regular switches should be fine, you can ask someone your size or buy an assortment, all you do is unscrew that ring and push it all out, those metal tabs on the edges of the switch just touch the switch housing. It's easy, take it apart and see, there's a plastic spacer and the silicon rubber button cover besides the switch, its simple once you do it.

https://www.fasttech.com/category/1610/diy-kits-parts-switches

EDIT: Ok you fixed it cool, beware that sometimes they can have an intermittent break inside, you can solder where it's broken if it happens again by popping the switch apart, but a solder iron can melt the plastic fast.

If you are going to be into this hobby for some time and use lasers a lot like I do then spare parts are a good thing to have.
I'm a burning nut, I put my lasers to work, that's one reason I like huge heat sinks, and flashlight switches do fail.
 
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