Re: Successfully changed the c-mount on my Aixiz 5
Thanks Jerry!! I'd call that a repair/mod if I had to be honest. A lot of what I did here was inspired by Wannaburn, and things I've read from Sam's Laserfaq. The DPSS section is incredible! This is just a small step of training in disassembly/assembly and alignment of DPSS lasers that will hopefully serve as background for my eventual plans for green lasers done completely from scratch, module and everything. I'd like to work eventually with discrete crystals too, rather than hybrid, since that's where the big powers come from. Then maybe a Yag rod and 15 watts of green. But one step at a time.
Disma: There's a hex set screw on the bottom of the heatsink, which you can loosen and turn the brass module independantly from the Aluminum. This can allow alignment of the beam if it happens to be off center from the collimating/focusing lens on the front. Doing this can actually add a lot of power (this was first pointed out to me by Elektrofreak on another thread) to the beam. I think it's kind of analogous to making sure a blu-ray is pressed evenly in its module...if the beam is coming out at an angle to the final lens, it will distort, cause artifacts, and you will lose light.
Or if you want to loosen the setscrew more, you can slide out the brass module. Now getting that apart was tougher, I had to take it into the shop for some careful, yet firm coaxing...but it finally yielded. ;D Everything was held in place by congealed thermal paste.
-Brett
lasersbee said:
Thanks Jerry!! I'd call that a repair/mod if I had to be honest. A lot of what I did here was inspired by Wannaburn, and things I've read from Sam's Laserfaq. The DPSS section is incredible! This is just a small step of training in disassembly/assembly and alignment of DPSS lasers that will hopefully serve as background for my eventual plans for green lasers done completely from scratch, module and everything. I'd like to work eventually with discrete crystals too, rather than hybrid, since that's where the big powers come from. Then maybe a Yag rod and 15 watts of green. But one step at a time.
Disma: There's a hex set screw on the bottom of the heatsink, which you can loosen and turn the brass module independantly from the Aluminum. This can allow alignment of the beam if it happens to be off center from the collimating/focusing lens on the front. Doing this can actually add a lot of power (this was first pointed out to me by Elektrofreak on another thread) to the beam. I think it's kind of analogous to making sure a blu-ray is pressed evenly in its module...if the beam is coming out at an angle to the final lens, it will distort, cause artifacts, and you will lose light.
Or if you want to loosen the setscrew more, you can slide out the brass module. Now getting that apart was tougher, I had to take it into the shop for some careful, yet firm coaxing...but it finally yielded. ;D Everything was held in place by congealed thermal paste.
-Brett
