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FrozenGate by Avery

Stripping a benq dw1620

Eudaimonium said:
It's sure my field, if you need any help, ask me - you're not the first one I've helped with this stuff.

Some members here are a bit reluctant to post what has been posted 100 times before, but I don't mind.

Add me on MSN, or Skype if you have it. I can help you with whatever you need.
Click to expand...

Thankyou very much, I'm sure I'll really need help once I get started :)
Btw I removed the casing with the glass from the diode I supposed to be red and now the two diodes look exactly the same. Under direct light the little one reflecte green, the big one reflects blue.

Here's a pic:

2rm1p1d.jpg
 
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Diodes are actually the little golden parts with silver piece on them, with three pins.
The rest is heastink which you need to remove.

Anyhow, it's a standard 5.6mm package of diodes and a lot of diodes look like that.

You need a 5.6mm diode housing. Try this:
HighTechDealZ - Aixiz Laser Module - Blank

I love that site, free shipping :)
 
Eudaimonium said:
Diodes are actually the little golden parts with silver piece on them, with three pins.
The rest is heastink which you need to remove.

Anyhow, it's a standard 5.6mm package of diodes and a lot of diodes look like that.

You need a 5.6mm diode housing. Try this:
HighTechDealZ - Aixiz Laser Module - Blank

I love that site, free shipping :)
Click to expand...

Got it, waiting for the package :)
I tried to remove the diode with a pair of plier but it is really stuck and I'm afraid to break it...
 
Here is a video of Mohrenberg using the file method on a LPC-815 diode. Different diode, same concept. :beer:

 
So, he is basically melting the leftover tin with a new blob of tin, am I right?
 
Yes, in order to remove the PCB. The solder blob on the iron helps to quickly transfer the heat to the solder on the LD. If you use this method make sure you don't leave the iron on the diode more than 1 second, 2 seconds MAX. Too much heat will kill the diode. If it doesn't work within 1-2 seconds, remove the iron from the diode and let it cool completely before trying again.
 
Ok, aixiz module is arrived, now for the driver, should I use a linear or a boost one?
 
Userro said:
Ok, aixiz module is arrived, now for the driver, should I use a linear or a boost one?
Click to expand...
Depends on what host do you plan on putting the laser into, which determines the batteries you want to use.

If it's just a bench labby type setup thing, for first time, just make your own LM317 current regulator. Very easy to make and works perfectly.
 
Yes, that is the right regulator but you will need to build a full circuit, don't worry it's pretty simple. The links below show the two sites I used for my first driver, it really is good expeirience to build your own but I have also included a link to a cheap pre-made driver.
And as for getting the diode out I recommend grasping each side of the heatsink with a pair of pliers and twist sharply. If this does not work I recommend the file method or if you want to be quick (but risk killing the diode), you can use a hack saw. To remove the tin from the diode I reccomend solder wick. It's cheap on ebay and is sold at most electronics shops. I hope i've helped and if you ever need some more help feel free to ask me via pm or my email adress; deadhorse14@hotmail.com.

Laser driver - It can be done

Random How To: DIY- How To Make A Burning Laser The Right Way!

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Hey, well the IC itself is good.

Problem is the price... I suggest buying such components in bulk.
Also, there is an alternative : LM1117 (there must be three 1, not two like LM117 which too exists).

LM1117 is almost EXACTLY the same as 317, except for one difference which is the voltage dropout. You see LM317 has around 2.5V of drop (possible more), where as LM1117 has one half of it.

So, with 1117 you can power bluray diodes from two lithium ions, where with 317 you could not (not enough voltage).

In any case, search for LM1117 as they are greatly superior to 317. Their pinout, Vref and everything else remains exactly the same, and what's more, SMD versions are VERY common and easy to find on ebay.

How are you with soldering? SMD versions of LM1117 are very good, not too small (you learn SMD soldering on them too) but great for making a drivers that fit inside the Aixiz back end barrel.

See this old picture of mine I did:
PA234913.jpg
 
never soldered anything in my life, that why I tended thowards buying a preassembled driver, so I would only have to solder the diodes and the battery cables.
Btw I managed to remove the diodes from heathsinks, I'll soon try to remove the leftover tin in the back.
 
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Userro said:
never soldered anything in my life, that why I tended thowards buying a preassembled driver, so I would only have to solder the diodes and the battery cables.
Btw I managed to remove the diodes from heathsinks, I'll soon try to remove the leftover tin in the back.
Click to expand...
Oh. Well, I'd advise getting LM1117 in TO220 casing (three pin through hole), it will be easier to solder.

Doing more stuff yourself is better then buying in many ways. Saving money for starters, learning how stuff works follows.

Oh and it's called solder, not just tin. Tin makes 60% of the metal mass used as solder, so it's incorrect to just call it tin (it's like calling the air you breathe "oxygen" just because there's a lot of it. It's mixture of a lot of stuff).
 
alf638 said:
Yes, that is the right regulator but you will need to build a full circuit, don't worry it's pretty simple. The links below show the two sites I used for my first driver, it really is good expeirience to build your own but I have also included a link to a cheap pre-made driver.
And as for getting the diode out I recommend grasping each side of the heatsink with a pair of pliers and twist sharply. If this does not work I recommend the file method or if you want to be quick (but risk killing the diode), you can use a hack saw. To remove the tin from the diode I reccomend solder wick. It's cheap on ebay and is sold at most electronics shops. I hope i've helped and if you ever need some more help feel free to ask me via pm or my email adress; deadhorse14@hotmail.com.

Laser driver - It can be done

Random How To: DIY- How To Make A Burning Laser The Right Way!

Welcome to O-Like.com, Your source for laser products
Click to expand...

Is this the driver you were referring to?
200mW red laser diode driver / constant current /current adjusta [OLRDB-200] - $3.89 : Welcome to O-Like.com, Your source for laser products

Btw Eudaimonium you're sure right and I'll usually follow your way of thinking (and maybe I will this time also), but I'm so new of the field that it's like learning chinese for me.
 
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