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Sharp GH04C05B9G 5W 440-450nm

RedCowboy

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Been waiting to try these out, divergence looks to be slightly worse than 7A75 much like the nubm44




piyb2.JPG
 
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RedCowboy

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I received my sharp GH04C05B9G from seller sabzh21 today and it does 5.4w @ 3.5a with a DTR G2 and 4.2w with a 3E.........divergence looks a lot like nubm44





---EDIT--- The data sheet says 3.5A MAX and it doesn't have much room past that, the knee is just past 3.5A and I killed one @ 4.3A so 3.5A looks like where we want to be on these but I have only tested the one so far, maybe it's just a weak example.
 
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RedCowboy

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Taking a 2nd closer look at this diode with a DTR G2 @ 15 feet the bar is closer to 2 inches ( 50mm ) which is what the nubm44 does and pushed to 4.0a it's doing 5.8w ..........I have made the mistake of judging divergence with a 3E before and because of the longer FL and clipping it's not accurate ( all 3E's are not the same ) the G2 gets close enough to capture all of the output so.........still a nice brand new blue for 35.00 delivered, it should help bring down the price of nubm44's which I am now seeing for sale with clean pins which means they are not having to wreck a projector to get them and likely going wholesale for way less cash just like nubm08 blocks, a block from the line is a block from the line and from the maker a block of 08's or 44's is pretty much the same except the lens and a few nm.....actually the 44 block should be a little cheaper without the lens for the OEM.

SANY4855.JPG
 
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Richie89

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Taking a 2nd closer look at this diode with a DTR G2 @ 15 feet the bar is closer to 2 inches ( 50mm ) which is what the nubm44 does and pushed to 4.0a it's doing 5.8w ..........I have made the mistake of judging divergence with a 3E before and because of the longer FL and clipping it's not accurate, the G2 gets close enough to capture all of the output so.........still a nice brand new blue for 35.00 delivered, it should help bring down the price of nubm44's which I am now seeing for sale with clean pins which means they are not having to wreck a projector to get them and likely going wholesale for way less cash just like nubm08 blocks, a block from the line is a block from the line and from the maker a block of 08's or 44's is pretty much the same except the lens and a few nm.....actually the 44 block should be a little cheaper without the lens for the OEM.

View attachment 69019
don't call me stupid but whats that round thing just above the battey cells? for some reason I cant figure out what it is lol!
 

RedCowboy

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It's a LM338 I was using as a current limiter on my test block, they work well for several lasers in series and I had several laying on my bench so I just jury rigged it onto my test block so I could walk outside with it.
 

RedCowboy

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I was hoping the 5W Sharp would have better divergence than the 7A75 but I am glad to see other companies making high output vis. ld's.
Yes I often use the G8, even on lower power lasers for a great beam. :)

-----edited-----
There's also a GH04C05Y9G which may be improved or not.
 
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barthchris

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Thanks, RedCowboy! Just ordered of few from AliExpress. $33 Hopefully its the real deal. I'll report back when I get it. Unfortunately, I dont have an LPM so not much reporting to do besides my opinion right now.

Just went through a horrific divorce. All hobbies went on hold for the last 1.5-2 yrs..

Divorce has been brewing for a long time but the last straw was when I went out of town to visit a friend (the first time I went anywhere without her in ages) came home and was told she decide to do some cleaning. She watched one too many reality tv hoarding shows. She decided I was a "hoarder", all my "toys" were tossed never to be seen again. Tons of laser stuff, more RC stuff than most well-stocked hobby shops(well, what used to be hobby shops).

Gut-wrenching! More gutwrenching is children were involved and custody was a battle, 13 and 15 yrs old sons, not a decision I took lightly but that's getting way off the subject of lasers.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001120176188.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.189b4c4d3IDfeu
 

RedCowboy

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Yea those are cool, just don't push them too hard, they don't have as much headroom as the N1ch1as

These are a pretty blue @ 465nm and have divergence similar to the NDB7A75, I also asked sabzh21 about re-canninmg some NUBM0A diodes which are sisters of the NUBM44v2
 

barthchris

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Yea those are cool, just don't push them too hard, they don't have as much headroom as the N1ch1as

These are a pretty blue @ 465nm and have divergence similar to the NDB7A75, I also asked sabzh21 about re-canninmg some NUBM0A diodes which are sisters of the NUBM44v2
I'm loving the recanning niche that the market has found for the blue diodes. As we've learned they go fast in free air.



Funny you mention sabzh21, I went on a diode spree that same night as I bought the sharps and bought a recanned NUB07E from that seller. I've had a few 07Es that I decanned beautiful color but they died fast with no inert atmosphere. Not a bad price IMO

 

aaronnoraa

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Andratos95

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I know I'm super late to this thread but... How do you drive such a high powerful laser? I know you can drive 2.5A with a linear regulator such as LM338, but won't that be extremely inefficient? I mean, the reference voltage on LM338 is 1.25V, so at 2.5A the current sense resistor needs to dissipate more than 3W... I read that one could use a switching regulator, but I can't seem to find any tutorial in the entire internet on how to use it for a laser diode of this power. Any tips?
 

RedCowboy

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You configure the LM338 as a current regulator ( they will do 5A but the one in this pic is doing 3.6A using 3 x 1ohm resistors in parallel giving me 0.33 ohms ), not a voltage regulator and yes it's not going to be as efficient as a bucking driver unless you are powering several laser diodes in series, it's also a lot cheaper for multi laser diode builds like this 14 diode array where all 14 laser diodes are in series.

If you want a good bucking driver for single laser diode builds I like these.

SANY6336.JPG
 
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Andratos95

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I really like the idea of building the driver by myself and actually understanding how it all works, so this actually seems very nice. But I have a few questions... If you were using a current sense resistor of 0.33Ω, and the reference voltage on the LM338 is 1.25V, your resistor would have to dissipate 3.75W of power. However with your trick of using 3 resistors in parallel, each one only dissipates 1.25W so... That's a "trick" for using lower power rated resistors, right?
Say I wanted to adjust the current with a potentiometer... I would need to connect it in series with that (equivalent) 0.33Ω resistor, right? But then the potentiometer also needs to dissipate a large power since it's in series, right? So I need to buy one that is also rated for high power?
Finally I have a last question...
There's this post that's sticked in one of the help pages: "How laser diode drivers work; An Explanatory Thread", where the guy says that you can use an operational amplifier to make the circuit more efficient (see attached image)... Any idea of how this is actually done in practice?
 

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