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Scheme for 2W m140 diode driver

T

Tuuurker

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Hello Guys, I just joined LPF.

I ordered 2W m140 with G2 lens(1.8 amp suggested)

Now, I need a driver scheme.I have tons of resistors, variable resistors, regulators and capacitors.

I have questions about diode's working principal
1-) Can I use 2 of LM317T regulator to give diode 5V and 3amps? Will diode die @5V 3Amps?
2-) When I give 5V 3 amps, will diode comsume 1.8amps or consume 3amps and die?
3-) Can I reduce 3amps to 1.8amps from regulator"S" output?If the answer is yes, which components can do it?
4-) Will 1.5 amps enough for m140, will diode be stable?
5-) Can I use 2 of L7805 regulator instead of LM317T?

Please help me at this sitation.Sorry for bad English.Thank you guys.
 





1) Yes, that will toast your diode
2) You don't hold both voltage and current constant it's one or the other. Again though, 3A = toast, and relying on constant voltage of 5V is a bad strategy too.
3) This doesn't make any sense.
4) A clean regulated constant current of 1.5A from a proper constant current driver (like an xdrive) would be fine.
5) No. The 7805 isn't a constant current regulator.

I don't think you've done enough research to be building your own driver. There are major concepts that you're missing here.
 
rhd said:
Then no, LM317 is not an appropriate option for an M140 diode. Too much voltage drop.

I recommend a buck driver.
Click to expand...

How can i make a driver like x-drive?I can use 3 x 18650 if it will be fine and I can use capacitors too.
 
Last edited:
Tuuurker said:
How can i make a driver like x-drive?I can use 3 x 18650 if it will be fine and I can use capacitors too.
Click to expand...

No disrespect intended, but based on your initial questions, I think building a switching buck or boost is a couple levels above where you're at right now. But if you are intent on building your own, give this a read:

www.linear.com/docs/4120

Linear drivers have their place, but that place isn't driving M140s. 3x lithiums would imply 12+ Watts of heat from your driver at full charge, and 2x isn't enough to clear the vdrop once voltage sags.

Go with a switching buck or boost. That's my recommendation. That's how people drive them reliably. No need to try and reinvent the wheel.
 
rhd said:
No disrespect intended, but based on your initial questions, I think building a switching buck or boost is a couple levels above where you're at right now. But if you are intent on building your own, give this a read:

www.linear.com/docs/4120

Linear drivers have their place, but that place isn't driving M140s. 3x lithiums would imply 12+ Watts of heat from your driver at full charge, and 2x isn't enough to clear the vdrop once voltage sags.

Go with a switching buck or boost. That's my recommendation. That's how people drive them reliably. No need to try and reinvent the wheel.
Click to expand...

I am really appreciated, but this text is just too much for my english."when you are not busy and can't find something to do" pls send me a parts list and scheme, I'll buy them.I am waiting for hearing from you soon.

Thanks Sir
 
Tuuurker said:
I am really appreciated, but this text is just too much for my english."when you are not busy and can't find something to do" pls send me a parts list and scheme, I'll buy them.I am waiting for hearing from you soon.

Thanks Sir
Click to expand...

The part you are looking for is called:

- X-drive V6 1.8A
 
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