I just picked up a 20x Samsung for $30 and pulled its diode in an attempt to fix my pulsar. Iv read that most burners have 2 diodes, 1 for CD and 1 for DVD. This one has both in one package and no photo diode. i don't know if i should call it an open can as it has no can at all. the laser chip is mounted directly onto a bracket and screwed onto the pickup. wont be able to get it into a aixiz module without some serious grinding. I did manage to tape it on the back of the module and power it up. It lite a match almost instantly at 300ma. On the bright side, since both diodes are together it might be possible to make a 2 in 1 laser module. Has anyone else come across a diode like this?
Welcome to Laser Pointer Forums - discuss green laser pointers, blue laser pointers, and all types of lasers
Buy Site Supporter Role (remove some ads) | LPF Donations
Links below open in new window
FrozenGate by Avery
Samsung 20x lightscribe burner diode
- Thread starter GMH
- Start date
Most DVD drives will come with the red diode and a larger infra-red diode built onto the same unit. The IR diobe is pretty much pointless unless very powerful, but I'm not sure how powerful they are in DVD+/-RW drives, and as you may or may not know IR is near invisible and the divergence of the beam is poor. A 2 in 1 laser would be tricky and pointless with an IR, but still a worthwhile project if you are interested in having an IR laser.
Gazoo
0
- Joined
- Jun 9, 2007
- Messages
- 3,206
- Points
- 38
Well I have seen some weird looking ones and so is yours..but it is probably quite powerful. It should easily be able to handle 350ma's or more as long as you do not allow it to overheat... 
The next best alternative for an open can would be harvesting one from a Pioneer 112D or a SenKat diode. But I understand the Pulsar has no current regulation so you might want to consider at least adding a resistor and a capacitor.
The next best alternative for an open can would be harvesting one from a Pioneer 112D or a SenKat diode. But I understand the Pulsar has no current regulation so you might want to consider at least adding a resistor and a capacitor.It looks like a flat package type LD. It seems like more manufacturers are going with these to save space in their designs. Most of metal in the object in your pics are the heatsink for the LD.
Example here ---> http://www.eu.sc-sanyo.com/ProductInfo/LaserDiode/WhatIsLD/LDindex2.html
Example here ---> http://www.eu.sc-sanyo.com/ProductInfo/LaserDiode/WhatIsLD/LDindex2.html
Gazoo said:Well I have seen some weird looking ones and so is yours..but it is probably quite powerful. It should easily be able to handle 350ma's or more as long as you do not allow it to overheat...
You are correct that the pulsar does not have any regulation. It was just a LD in the front half of a aixiz module hooked up to the batteries directly. Only a button in between. All put inside a leadlight type case. I fried it with lithium batteries. Later I read a post that says not to use those or else. It was putting out about 60mw with ni-mh batteries and 80mw with fresh alkalines. with the lithium batteries it went up to 130mw. it died a few days later. although at the time I bought it they were advertising it as 150mw as i recall.
My best diode so far is from the LG GSA-H50N
Driving it with 300ma been running fine for over a week now and still strong
I have it mounted in a 1"x1" round block of alum
it does start to get warm after about a min of use
Its an open or no can Diode so care is needed in removing them
I know i wil be getting another of these best $30 ive spent so far
Driving it with 300ma been running fine for over a week now and still strong
I have it mounted in a 1"x1" round block of alum
it does start to get warm after about a min of use
Its an open or no can Diode so care is needed in removing them
I know i wil be getting another of these best $30 ive spent so far
TheMonk
0
- Joined
- Aug 29, 2007
- Messages
- 750
- Points
- 0
Gazoo
0
- Joined
- Jun 9, 2007
- Messages
- 3,206
- Points
- 38
One thing for sure...the open can will be less likely to die being directly driven from the batteries than a closed can. Electrically they are sturdy and it should last you a long time. Too bad it takes AAA batteries. It would be extremely easy to beef up if it took AA's with a simple driver and a lion battery.
The diffraction grating thingy is neat.
The diffraction grating thingy is neat.
C
Chris.
Guest
Gazoo said:One thing for sure...the open can will be less likely to die being directly driven from the batteries than a closed can. Electrically they are sturdy and it should last you a long time. Too bad it takes AAA batteries. It would be extremely easy to beef up if it took AA's with a simple driver and a lion battery.
The diffraction grating thingy is neat.
Yeah, my first(and last) LG 20x open cap lasted all of 3 minutes off batteries, with no resistors, before I killed it.
I added a 1 ohm resistor to it actually. I noticed that having the current meter in the circuit added significant resistance because when i removed it, the diode put out a lot more power. I'm using some high capacity ni-mh batteries. I think the higher voltage of alkalines would probably fry it again. Don't wanna cook the pulsar again, but i'll experiment with this samsung diode.
Gazoo
0
- Joined
- Jun 9, 2007
- Messages
- 3,206
- Points
- 38
I don't know if you know this, but you can set your meter to the mv scale and measure the voltage across the resistor...this will give you the same reading as if you were measuring current. Of course make sure the probes are plugged into the correct place on the meter for measuring voltage.
