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FrozenGate by Avery

S06J vs m-140???

there is plenty of different options for sites (cajunlasers, axiz, survivallasers, etc.) seems you are from britain though... DTR sells combos w/ a microboost, M140 pressed in axiz w/ leads. this seems suitable for your build and gives you less room for error
just my .02
:beer: Justin
 





I have used Survival Laser a ton and have had nothing but flawless parts delivered. Their shipping is also very fast.
 
So im going to get a DTR C6 host with his amazing heatsink and put the diode in one of his copper modules. Naturally i will be putting a 3-element lense in there but i am still torn between the x-drive set to 1.25-1.8(cant decide!) or the 2A lazerer powerbuck(pretty sure its going to be too much though). I have never heard of the 18350's before but having the extra capacity would be nice if they would actually fit in the host...can anyone confirm this? AHHHHHHH IM SO EXCITED!!!:san::san::san::san::san:

P.S. yes, i do have some goggles picked out that i'm going to order tonight :)...do not let my name mislead you. I AM British but i live in Texas lol!
 
Don't put the diode on a 2A driver. It will most definitely be too much for it. If this is one of your first M140 builds I would suggest getting an X-Drive set to 1.6-1.7A. That way you will be pushing a lot of output but you are below the typical danger line.
 
a copper heatsink is more practical to for duty cycles in a c6 (if your budget pertains it that is) and the lower current your driver is set at the higher your duty cycle.
get ready to have some burning fun. :)
:beer: Justin
 
I pretty much suggest copper heatsinks and modules for every build because they are just superior all around even for lower power lasers.

BTW, the current I suggested is on the high end but still below the maximum suggested. If you want high duty cycle but still hold 1W+(or close) output you could do 1.2-1.4A also.
 
the lower current/output of the laser also helps your diodes life.
1.8A is fine but any higher is kind of diode abuse!! :)
:beer: Justin
 
Agreed. Even 1.8A is almost 3x spec current though. That's why I think 1.6-1.7A is worth it if you don't plan on having a bunch of high powered M140s around. 1.8A is still diode destructive and will lower its life a notch but its still below the border of full on diode torture.
 
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