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FrozenGate by Avery

RPL 300 run time.

millionaire said:
[quote author=Nordhavn link=1192231086/0#10 date=1192246763]I do NOT recommend using these lasers with a fixed output! You are taking a BIG risk running them at WOT (wide open throttle) all the time.



THey are never ran nowhere near wide open throttle on these if you got the adjustable one and set the power level to 9 it would only feed enough to get the diode to push out 80% of its full power so the diode is never being overworked it has something to do with it shutting off with the auto shutdown on the RPLs when it is overheated. Im pretty sure there is a thread around here somehwere explaining it in full detail.[/quote]


Yes it is WOT.

Let me explain. Your car even though you floor it technically isn't running WOT. Most things have governors in them and this laser is no different. That said, having it on level 9 is considered WOT. Most that have owned and used RPL's will tell you that running at 9 is hardly optimal. Just as your car may have a top speed of 160mph (if you're lucky ;) ) you should not drive that fast!

Some RPL's will perform their best at level 3. Running it higher with no higher output is not just wasteful but is not good for the crystals either. Expand the beam with a simple lens and the mode changes will reveal this. You can easily cook it if you're not careful.

Temperature has a big player too. If the casing is warm to the touch the diode life is also shortened. It needs to be used at the lowest possible level to provide the most useful output and no more. If the key cap is the equivalent of level 3 on a switch then it's ok to run it all the time. But in some cases the laser will never see its full potential as sometimes higher levels are needed. Again one loses lots of flexibility by purchasing a non adjustable laser.
 





pseudonomen137 said:
There have been some misconceptions abound that the RPL has a 5 minute duty cycle. I would like to clarify that the maximum recommended spec for a high power RPL unit at full power setting is 50 seconds. Some can run much longer, but 50 seconds is the supported limit as far as the manufacturer is concerned.

That said, if you're only getting 40 seconds, there may be a problem with the unit. Its good you're getting it replaced.
Would you by any chance have any idea of the mw output difference vs runtime on some of the higher levels? Like level 7 or 8? I'm curious in regards to the RPL 300...but maybe you have tested a different model??
Thanks,
Jay
 
jayrob said:
[quote author=pseudonomen137 link=1192231086/15#15 date=1192310458]There have been some misconceptions abound that the RPL has a 5 minute duty cycle. I would like to clarify that the maximum recommended spec for a high power RPL unit at full power setting is 50 seconds. Some can run much longer, but 50 seconds is the supported limit as far as the manufacturer is concerned.

That said, if you're only getting 40 seconds, there may be a problem with the unit. Its good you're getting it replaced.
Would you by any chance have any idea of the mw output difference vs runtime on some of the higher levels? Like level 7 or 8? I'm curious in regards to the RPL 300...but maybe you have tested a different model??
Thanks,
Jay[/quote]

There is NO said specific for a given model run. EACH laser is a completely different animal and optimal run characteristic MUST be found by the operator. I was very familiar with my RPL300 that I've had for over a year. It was sent back for repair. "Repair" consists of replacing the entire laser module and rotary switch network. So you basically have a new laser along with a new character to learn all over again to get the best out of. And it's completely different.

Wait until you see my video showing a character of ALL RPL lasers that most people aren't aware of!
 
40 seconds seems like a rather long time to me :P why would you need to run it that long continuosly? :-?
 
Chief-Eamonn said:
40 seconds seems like a rather long time to me  :P why would you need to run it that long continuosly? :-?
Well, lets say you wanted to just check the divergence at different distances, or experiment on match lights at different distances. 40 seconds is not long enough. But the main thing is....the RPL is advertised to be able to run for 5 minutes continuous at full power. (which is acctually 80%)
Jay
 
Nordhavn said:
[quote author=jayrob link=1192231086/15#17 date=1192333110][quote author=pseudonomen137 link=1192231086/15#15 date=1192310458]There have been some misconceptions abound that the RPL has a 5 minute duty cycle. I would like to clarify that the maximum recommended spec for a high power RPL unit at full power setting is 50 seconds. Some can run much longer, but 50 seconds is the supported limit as far as the manufacturer is concerned.

That said, if you're only getting 40 seconds, there may be a problem with the unit. Its good you're getting it replaced.
Would you by any chance have any idea of the mw output difference vs runtime on some of the higher levels? Like level 7 or 8? I'm curious in regards to the RPL 300...but maybe you have tested a different model??
Thanks,
Jay[/quote]

There is NO said specific for a given model run.  EACH laser is a completely different animal and optimal run characteristic MUST be found by the operator.  I was very familiar with my RPL300 that I've had for over a year.  It was sent back for repair.  "Repair" consists of replacing the entire laser module and rotary switch network.  So you basically have a new laser along with a new character to learn all over again to get the best out of.  And it's completely different.

Wait until you see my video showing a character of ALL RPL lasers that most people aren't aware of!
[/quote]
Please let me know what you have found on your RPL 300 as far as its power level vs run times and your best guess on mw drop as you go to setting 8 and 7. I am also very interested in knowing what you mean by the character that most people are not aware of...
Thanks,
Jay
 
jayrob said:
[quote author=Nordhavn link=1192231086/15#18 date=1192372828][quote author=jayrob link=1192231086/15#17 date=1192333110][quote
Please let me know what you have found on your RPL 300 as far as its power level vs run times and your best guess on mw drop as you go to setting 8 and 7. I am also very interested in knowing what you mean by the character that most people are not aware of...
Thanks,
Jay

Well the first RPL maxed out on 2 and met its demise on 2. Diode burned out with about five minutes on it! ::)

RPL number 2 seemed to work better. Level 3 was the best for continuous use. Level 4 was good to get max power (350+) for a minute or two when COLD. As it warmed up it would dim and mode hop unless dropped to level 3. That scheme worked until late this summer when the divergence increased. It was not a matter of adjusting the collimator ring. The beam before the collimator was noticeably smaller and running in non TEMoo modes at lower levels. This was after exposure to excessive vibration from a large subwoofer array. (20-50Hz in the 140dB range)

So off it went to be "repaired". The "repair" was a module swap along with a new adjustable endcap. This laser can take more current and produces higher outputs than the original. The divergence is better as well. It can tolerate running on level 7 and come close to killing a complete 18650 charge before the flash of death. (on off cycle of the silly "protection" circuitry whose role is uncertain)

I will demonstrate an unusual character of these lasers in a video soon. In a nutshell, nearly half of all green light produced by the module is discarded! It's a lot easier to explain in a video than words.
 
Nordhavn said:
[quote author=jayrob link=1192231086/15#21 date=1192375310][quote author=Nordhavn link=1192231086/15#18 date=1192372828][quote author=jayrob link=1192231086/15#17 date=1192333110][quote
Please let me know what you have found on your RPL 300 as far as its power level vs run times and your best guess on mw drop as you go to setting 8 and 7. I am also very interested in knowing what you mean by the character that most people are not aware of...
Thanks,
Jay

Well the first RPL maxed out on 2 and met its demise on 2.  Diode burned out with about five minutes on it!  ::)

RPL number 2 seemed to work better.  Level 3 was the best for continuous use.  Level 4 was good to get max power (350+) for a minute or two when COLD.  As it warmed up it would dim and mode hop unless dropped to level 3.  That scheme worked until late this summer when the divergence increased.  It was not a matter of adjusting the collimator ring.  The beam before the collimator was noticeably smaller and running in non TEMoo modes at lower levels.  This was after exposure to excessive vibration from a large subwoofer array.  (20-50Hz in the 140dB range)

So off it went to be "repaired".  The "repair" was a module swap along with a new adjustable endcap.  This laser can take more current and produces higher outputs than the original.  The divergence is better as well.  It can tolerate running on level 7 and come close to killing a complete 18650 charge before the flash of death. (on off cycle of the silly "protection" circuitry whose role is uncertain)

I will demonstrate an unusual character of these lasers in a video soon.  In a nutshell, nearly half of all green light produced by the module is discarded!  It's a lot easier to explain in a video than words.[/quote]
So it sounds like maybe with the variability in each unit, the adjustable cap is the only way to go....Even better, perhaps each unit could be tested and sent with the recommended best setting for that particular unit!...Including the result of the output power of the optimal setting with a full charge on the battery. I know it may be extra work for Jack, but I for one would like to know exactly what I am going to pay for ...in advance even. I would accually pay more in that case!
Jay
 
Well problem is power is only half the story. (no pun intended!)

My RPL hits a max on 7-8 BUT the beam is not true TEMoo. It gets larger and hops even though the power is higher. On levels 1,2, and 3 it's the highest while maintaining true TEMoo operation. Once the output is no longer TEMoo divergence spec goes out the window. Sure if all you care about is burning things indoors and popping balloons, etc. then the most power is going to be your goal. I prefer stability and beam quality over anything else.

What's worse is the character often changes as the laser ages and gets hours racked up. My lasers get used like tools. They never sit on the shelf for the occasional firing so that could be the difference too. I like the RPL better than CNI's PGL but I much prefer the shutter of the PGL (rotating) than the pin on the RPL. That has to go!

A Hercules with an 18650 tube would be nice!
 
I am looking forward to that video Nordhavn. I think I know what you are talking about.
My RPL won't work on setting 1 and even 2 sometimes. Levels 7 gives it best performance over period of 5 min (stays over 300mW) and it only starts to warm then.
 
Thanks for everybody's help and information on this question. Just to let everybody know....Jack has more than lived up to the reputation which has preceeded him! I upgraded to an RPL 350 on the exchange which Jack 'hand picked' for me and it is absolutely awesome. He threw in some free optics too! About the run time, I have decided that for me, the adjustable cap is the answer. There is no need to set the power level any higher than the optimal setting which Jack pre-tests and documents. Maybe if the battery gets low, then I'll try turning it up a click or two. From what I understand, any higher setting with a fully charged battery is over saturating the crystal. Thanks a million Jack!
Jay
 
Glad to see this resolved. After spending some time putting this laser through its paces and getting acquainted with its operational characteristics you will find the variable output cap is essential to getting everything out of this laser.
 


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