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FrozenGate by Avery

Romisen 30mW help

K

kingdomzero

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Jan 31, 2009
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Hey guys, I just purchased and received a Romisen 30mW laser from DX (sku 11018...forums arent letting me link to it since i'm new here). However, it doesnt work, and nothing I try will get it to, and I've made a thread on DX but I doubt the answers would be as accurate/knowledgeable as what I'd get from here.

I'm using 3.0v CR123 Lithium primaries, when the laser is meant to use CR123A 3.6v - however I read through the reviews and posts on DX and it still should work, albeit with a dimmer beam, but that's to be expected anyway. At first I thought the circuit might not be being completed (different battery size maybe) so I tried spacing first with a piece of wire, then with a spring, then with solder. Nothing works.

My next move would be to pull it apart and make sure the switch is connected, but I can't figure out how to...the last couple of lasers I've attempted to pull apart have ended up broken, lol. (cheap red 5mW's so no worries)

So any ideas on what could be wrong, or how to pull it apart? I saw a thread here where one guy pulled the internals out, but he didnt give any instructions and I dont really wanna risk ruining it. Does it look like I've just gotten a defective laser? :(

Cheers everyone.
 





Second, is the battery any good?

Third, is it making good connections?

Fourth, are all of the other connections clean/good?

Peace,
dave
 
Its a brand new energizer lithium battery, cost me $25 AUD for 2 from the local shops, so I hope theyre good.
I think its making all the connections, I made sure of it by spacing with solder and the other stuff.
All the other connections? Not sure, thats why I want to pull it apart to check it out.

Cheers for this
 
It twists apart in 4 places, tailcap, head, and two places inbetween.

Some of them only come apart into 3(with a reasonable amount of force)

I also recently had one quit working on me, test to see if the module itself is working.
Take your battery and two pieces of wire.  Put the negative end of the battery to the spring, and the positive end to the brass casing of the module.  If it works, that means that the problem is in the casing(connections not being made).  If it does not work, then you should return it to DX, there is nothing ot be done.

I have one that has connections not being made and i could never figure it out, i think over anodizing(its not even anodizing, just paint i think).

I'll let you know if i ever figure mine out.

Talking about wrong laser, disregard.
 
The threads are properly screwed in, and trying what you said frogger yielded no results either. The only other thing I can think of that could be wrong other than a problem with the laser itself is the switch turning it on...is there a way to test the switch, without using a multimeter or anything? Or a way to bypass the switch to just test the laser itself? BTW, mine is the 3 piece laser. Good luck with your laser too.
 
kingdomzero said:
The threads are properly screwed in, and trying what you said frogger yielded no results either. The only other thing I can think of that could be wrong other than a problem with the laser itself is the switch turning it on...is there a way to test the switch, without using a multimeter or anything? Or a way to bypass the switch to just test the laser itself? BTW, mine is the 3 piece laser. Good luck with your laser too.
Click to expand...


Just remove the tail cap (with switch) and then short the exposed end of the battery to the case.

Peace,
dave
 
By switch I meant the momentary on button, on the body of the laser - not on the tail. Unless the button is only in play when the tail cap is on? Either way I tried what you said, and yeah didnt work.
 
kingdomzero said:
By switch I meant the momentary on button, on the body of the laser - not on the tail. Unless the button is only in play when the tail cap is on? Either way I tried what you said, and yeah didnt work.
Click to expand...


Ooops -- Sorry :-[

I forgot that this one was a side button.

I don't know of any way to test a side button without at least a continuity tester. A DMM would be better

Peace,
dave
 
kingdomzero said:
is there a way to test the switch, without using a multimeter or anything?
Click to expand...
maybe... but first, there are some very cheap multimeters that are also very good, for basics. I have one from RadioShack a while back that was about $5 (US).

Anyway... do you have any loose LED's? resistors? if so:
- solder a resistor to the negative side of the LED; that would be the short lead, if it's a new LED.
the resistor could be anything between about 100 to 500 ohms.

now first, check to see that the battery will run the LED/resistor all by itself!

once that's working:
- put the battery in the laser. remember that the +side goes out.
- connect the +side of the LED to the battery +
- connect the other side of the resistor to the case
- push the laser's button.

this will tell you some possibilities:
- if the LED lights:
- the button works.
- the driver circuit inside may work.
- if the LED does not light:
- the switch may be bad
- the driver may be bad

I hope this helps.
:)
DanQ
 
Sorry, you can disregard most things i said, i was talking about a different laser, my bad!
 
DanQ said:
[quote author=kingdomzero link=1233390680/0#7 date=1233465378]is there a way to test the switch, without using a multimeter or anything?
Click to expand...
maybe... but first, there are some very cheap multimeters that are also very good, for basics. I have one from RadioShack a while back that was about $5 (US).

Anyway... do you have any loose LED's? resistors? if so:
- solder a resistor to the negative side of the LED; that would be the short lead, if it's a new LED.
 the resistor could be anything between about 100 to 500 ohms.

now first, check to see that the battery will run the LED/resistor all by itself!

once that's working:
- put the battery in the laser. remember that the +side goes out.
- connect the +side of the LED to the battery +
- connect the other side of the resistor to the case
- push the laser's button.

this will tell you some possibilities:
- if the LED lights:
   - the button works.
   - the driver circuit inside may work.
- if the LED does not light:
   - the switch may be bad
   - the driver may be bad

I hope this helps.
:)
DanQ[/quote]


LISTEN TO THIS MAN!
 
Don't have any resistors hanging around unfortunately...but it's safe to say that something about it's defective, so I guess I'll just send in a request for a replacement at DX. Was hoping for some easy answers which I'd be able to fix myself and not go through the hassle :P But if it is the button, or the driver, theres not much I can really do about it anyway.

Many thanks to everyone who offered their help though...looks like it might be worth picking up a cheap multimeter for situations like this in the future.
 
Sorry for double post - but it looks like I won't be getting this replaced after all. I ordered a BB gun from DX too, which was seized by customs...don't wanna risk importing a laser again, since they only gave me a warning this time but next time might be more serious.

So what are the chances, if its the internal circuit or the driver thats broken, that I'll be able to fix it?
 
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